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Published: January 7th 2010
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Ahh Lisa thought a nice relaxing Xmas...luxury of all luxuries we had even splashed out on a cabin at Whakapapa (Wh is pronounced f, work it out for yourselves) village.
However before this, much to Lisa's pleasure, we were booked on the dawn walk Tongariro Alpine Crossing. We found a quiet alcove in the village to cook a mean chilli to power us up the mountain. It was 2am when we awoke to meet our guide for the crossing, the sky looked clear although as we later found out there are no guarantees in the mountains. Stu 'hereafter known as the Guide' drove us to the road end at Mangetepopo, we then began our ascent into the darkness. Head torches on the cloud came in quite quickly and visibility was limited, it is amazing how the sound of the stream is acentuated as your senses try to combat poor visibility. We climbed step after step for what seemed like an eternity. We were later to find out it's name was the devils stairway. By the time we reached a plateau the lanscape feeled fairly alien, the light of the head touches barely picking out shrubs and spars bush land. We
were on the Southern Crater walking on ash that was short and springly under foot. The mist became very thick and were were unable to find the path, the guide muttered somthing about wind direction to navigate, then I saw him shyly dig o ut his GPS.
We then began another rocky ascent, the wind had really picked up now and had a ice chill. It was barely above 0 degrees and were being blown off the mountian. Mount Tongariro was not going to let us up easlily. The volcanic ash made it particullary hard going, two steps forward then you would slip two steps back. However we managed the ascent to skirt around the Red Crater and take a final seating position overloocking the Emerald Lakes. T-10-minutes for Sunrise, the clouds were really thick and we feared the worst. Luckely Dad had a word and there was an almost celestial parting of the clouds as the sun rose to illuminate the Mountain and Emerald Lakes. It was definately worth viewing this at 1886m. Unfortunately the weather prevented us from going right to the summit (1967m) or moring along the exposed Northern Slopes. Therefore we went back through the
Mangatepopo Valley which we had ascended in the dark.
Whilst on our way down we passed almost 450 walkers attempting the climb and were able to enjoy the views of the foothills and Valley at their emptiest best. What was interesting was the differing lava flows, vegetation and rocks from different eruptions. Indicating the fertility of the soil and the effects of altitude. Almost a descent into the future, with only basic mosses clinging onto life high up.
After finishing the crossing we spent the remainder of the day sleeping!
Xmas Eve we were fighting fit and rearing to go again. Lisa had left the planning to David (strange but true after the last encounter!) but I decided on the Silica rapids walk we had been recommended. A gentle 7km 2.5 hour walk to take us to a series of shallow terraces coated in creamy white deposits as you can see in the photo. These are caused by aerated water leaving traces of alumino-silicates on the rocks. We had to get back then for the Kiwi carol service at the Grand Chateau! A strange mix of English/American/Spanish/Kiwi carols that had our German friends dumbfounded! Did a cracking
G&T though.
Xmas morning was a relaxed affair but in the afternoon we took a scenic drive up to the base of Mount Ruapehu, its snow capped peaks giving us an christmassy feel. We were going to get the cable car up to do the summit walk (or as near as we could get it) but alas it was not to be, a mountain too far....
Christmas dinner was in the chateau, by now our class was apparent and we were ushered through as regulars (yeah right), not a bad attempt at a traditional dinner with squash an interesting addition.
On boxing day we did a short walk to Taranaki falls to work off all that festive food and this concluded a different but enjoyable festive stay in the National Park.
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