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Published: January 8th 2017
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Abel Tasman coast track
Halfway through our death march, with Anchorage bay in the background. Hi folks and Happy New Year to you! It's been a while since our last blog, so here's an overview of our meanderings over the last few weeks. After several days in Nelson with my mum and dad, we took the Great Taste cycle trail along the coast to Motueka and the Abel Tasman national park. As you'll see from the photos, this area is stunning with white beaches and turquoise waters, and the multi-day coastal hiking track runs for many miles, with well-equipped huts along the whole way. We were excited about doing a little day hike on it ourselves, but in our enthusiasm we ended up turning our "rest day" into a 16-mile death march, which left us barely able to move by the time we hobbled back to camp. It was a beautiful death march though, and well worth the side trip.
We climbed stiffly back on our bikes the next day and slogged over Takaka hill (about 2,600ft above sea level), then made our way round to Farewell Spit over the following days, which is as far northwest as you can get on South Island.
The highlight of this area was Wharariki beach, a surreal, windswept landscape
of sculpted dunes and rocky outcrops, where we saw several seals basking at the edge of the ocean as we munched on our late breakfast of bread and Nutella. They didn't seem to mind sharing their sunbathing spot with two grubby cyclists for an hour or so.
Back on the bikes again, and to rub salt in the wound caused by our first torturous ascent, we had to ride back over Takaka hill, which seemed even steeper and more enormous the second time around! At least this time we had the good sense to stop at the Wool Shed cafe just after the summit, and I indulged in a Devonshire cream tea...my very favourite British treat and something you sadly just don't find in the States. Since Ken doesn't drink tea and doesn't like jam (what?!), I scoffed the whole lot by myself. Hard times...
We made it back to Nelson just before Christmas, in the heaviest rain storm I have ever encountered on a bike: we got so wet that even my ears became water logged! No kidding - I couldn't hear a thing, which is probably good because I think Ken was moaning a fair bit by that
Marahau, Abel Tasman
Our tiny tent, dwarfed by motorhomes. point. Luckily we were able to dry out in Nelson and then enjoy a few days with my parents, including a Christmas day BBQ and a hike to the Centre of New Zealand. It was lovely to spend time with my folks over the festive season for the first time in 8 years.
From Nelson we've put in a lot of miles and passed through some incredible scenery, such as the Rainbow Trail between St Arnaud and Hanmer Springs, and the Alps to Ocean trail, where we are right now. We spent New Year's Eve in Christchurch, where damage from the 2010/2011 earthquakes is still clearly visible, and enjoyed some live music and fireworks to welcome in 2017.
New Zealand's weather has proved to be quite fickle, although locals assure us that it is normally much sunnier and warmer at this time of year: not helpful when we're packing up a wet tent...again! I've always said that tent camping is a lot of hard work for a bad night's sleep, but when the tent is also sopping wet, I just think: why bother? But despite the wind and rain, we've been having a great time as always and are happily
making our way further south, meeting interesting people and seeing fantastic landscapes. From here in Otematata we plan on heading to Dunedin and then inland towards Wanaka, before perhaps braving the West coast, notorious for its heavy downpours and monster-sized sandflies; what's not to love!
We hope that 2017 is off to a good start for you and thanks for checking in on us.
~Fi and Ken
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Mary Dever
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Just a quick note
OMG This is the 1st time I have seen your blog in forever !!! Bill tells me & shows me Nothing !!! I can't believe you guys are on the road again !! That's Awesome !! We Miss You Guys Something Crazy !!! How is My Goldie Girl ?? I sure do Miss that face XOXOXOXOXOXOX Be safe & have a blast !!!!!!! XOXOXOXOXOXOX Mary