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Published: March 14th 2008
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Date visited: 7-12 March
Sunny warm and very green, approaching Golden Bay after the chilly and cloudy southern regions of late felt as though we were going back through a seasonal time warp into the summer again after a bracing encounter with the South Islands autumn. A temperature difference of over 10 degrees accompanied by the hot sun and blue seas, the sound of crickets, and tuneful Tui's oncemore brightened us up considerably, our summer sandles making a return oncemore.
Everything in Golden Bay appeared much more lush than I first predicted - very green and fresh indeed with farming fields and meadows going right upto the beach edge.
Takaka, the regions' hub, is a pretty shop lined street containing its fair share of hippy clothing shops, the odd pub and village store. It had a very laid back feel to it.
Our first full day in Golden Bay included walking through the 'Grove', a pretty short stroll through bush taking us through a narrow gap between tall imposing limestone cliffs, leading to a viewpoint giving excellent views over the coastline. We then hopped back into our car to check out an impressive cave - (the largest
Cathedral Dome Cave, Golden Bay
There were poles inside you could follow to take you deep inside the cave and on multiple levels (no safety concerns over here)! entrance in New Zealand) where it was perched high on a hillside in thick forest. We walked up a steep path to get to it, but it was getting dark so we ran down on our return just in time. The jungle here is 'dimly lit' even in the bright day time. The day finished with a pint or two of home brewed cider at the local Mussell Inn pub. The place was buzzing with locals where we sat around a roaring fire out at the back. The vibe was really great - we even saw the numerous hippy wannabies including a 20-something pirate dressed in robes and sandles. It amused us greatly! We couldn't go to Golden Bay without seeing these alternative lifestylers afterall!
The hostel here had fab arty rooms which were quite imaginative, and a lovely garden for us to read and reflect in the afternoon sun. Unfortunately in the evening we realised we were sharing this abode with 3 freaks - an odd parent pair (the man reminded me of dad(sorry dad) and his deranged wife who looked more like a witch but was listening to an mp3 player! and the 'only' 30-something son who
looked more like the rocker-nerd from dumb and dumber. Luckily our books provided much needed distraction whilst we heard them talking to the owner next door.
Our second stop in Golden Bay was further up the coast in Collingwood - so so quiet here. We hit lucky again with another fab hostel - this time an old wooden house purched on a hill overlooking the bay.
http://www.backpackerscollingwood.co.nz/ - check this out - it even has the tables on the website where we had lunch one afternoon! This place had really comfy futon beds so we slept like logs!
With our pace now slowing to a stroll from a hectic run we could meander along the coastline and walk through the village not really caring what time it was. A stroll for instance through Collingwood lead us to Rosies Chocolate cottage where for 5 dollars we experienced the delight of one of her caramel chocolate delights - all homemade and full of rich ingrediants but we didn't care!
Our last day or so in Golden Bay took us further north still to Farewell Spit - known for its Gannet Colony and other endangered bird species. We didn't
go on a tour but could still appreciate the area from a walk we did nearby which provided fine views of the peninsula and the vast sandy beach.
Our last day also took us to one of the best hostels in New Zealand - see this link (the second picture might as well have been me and ben - as the rooms come with a pair of chairs on some decking looking out to the pacific ocean/tasman ocean). All gorgeously peaceful. Waking up to a thick strip of dark blue right infront of you would get you up out of bed even if you were hungover with illness.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/shambhala/accommodation.htm
The whole afternoon here was spent chatting to some really nice americans who luckily for us, had just completed a 5 month trip of south east asia. We couldnt scribble the tips down fast enough - this conversation enabled me to get itinerary planning for the days to follow and finallly make some firm decisions about where we really need to be and see.
Our last evening in Golden Bay was rightly spent in the best known and only place in the area for a
beer and chat - the Mussell Inn. Enroute to the pub we discovered a footpath in the Shambahlah' grounds which lead us to the pub where we passed 2 glowworms!
Golden Bay has given us a rest from the perpetual driving and endless itinerary planning. For the first time we could while away the hours reading a book or stare at the ocean from the numerous sea-facing hostels in this area, or stroll on empty beaches, or go on a walk through lush green meadows.
This area seems to be missed off the route of many travellers at their peril! with just a few willing to make an effort to see the hidden gems it has to offer - like the caves on the Goldmine walk, Rosies Chocolate, the easy going very relaxed vibe of the villages, and the endless sunshine.
If nothing else it was worth going to Shambahlah' and using a compost toilet (with a seaview) for the first time! 😊
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