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Published: March 23rd 2006
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Sitting here in dingy Greymouth. It reminds me a bit of Tipton- hmm has some waterways but thats about all. Not much going on. However its a stop off for the transalpine train and thats what Ive been doing today.
Last couple of days have been pretty active. Im turning into a couch poatato and trying to reverse the trend as I slowly become more rotund! I fell in love with beautiful picture postcard Kaikoura- even started snooping around to see if they have any possible work there for me!- but Im just fantasising- reckon it would be too quiet there. kaikoura has some amazing sealife, basically because a deep water channel comes very close inland and the water is rich in nutrients, hence the sea mammals follow. On the day we left a pod of dolphins was playing around in the bay- imagine that on Weston Super Mare front- nobody would ever do any work- we'd be mesmerised!
Apparently swimming with dolphins is a 'must do' before you die. I was quite up for it until somebody told me the water was 2kms deep there, and my fear was compounded by a story of a japanese tourist swimming
with them when a whale the size of a house surfaced next to him! Then somebody told me about a boat forgetting two divers in Australia who perished (ok more extreme than snorkelling but had never thought about being abandoned by my lifeline!) . Who needs enemies......etc etc
When we found a pod of dolphins...guess what?They were playing with a shark!hmmm even more reassuring!But we were assured the sharks in this area were safe.....
So, it was with some coaxing that I was eventually deposited amongst around 50 fins to the loud sound of a horn off the back of a boat with 12 others. The secret is to provide entertainment so the dolphins come to you. The sea was full of silly sounds and the girl next to me was singing Abba through her snorkel!Suddenly there they were, 2 or 3 of them swimming below, really beautiful. The pod kept coming back &they kept criss crossing below in the water. But they weren't that interested in me- obviously not enough of an entertainer!! Despite being rejected by the dolphins it was a really beautiful experience!
The next day, it was the turn of the seals to
provide entertainment with a seal kayak. No this doesnt involve using seals as a mount while paddling away, nor having them as co-kayakees! As with tongariro ( which I still havent fully related!) I didnt really think what I was doing when I signed up. The trip was kayaking. In the sea. And I hate open water. To a seal colony. For 3 hours. And I now have wimpy wussy arms. Not a good start! So, fully kitted with kayak gear and heading out into the open water with swell increasing in size, I suddenly realise that there will be no toilet opportunities for quite a while( first trauma), and this isnt just a little paddle around a bay. We are going out to face the elements! Fearful of capsising, I start to be extra nice to my co-kayakee who also happens to be steering ( skippering?) as I realise its to my advantage.....
Ninety minutes later, trying not to think of toilets and water, yet surrounded by it , my arms feel spent and we reach the seal colony. I try not to think of another 90 minutes return journey- how will my arms and bladder cope?!!! The
seals stink- its true you dont want to get to close- but they are fascinating and slip into the water behind the kayaks and play. Its kinda cute. We spend about 15 minutes with them before returning, and yes we do make it back just before a storm hits with heavy rain and lightning.I get out soaked to the skin and realise I am travelling for 3 hours by train this afternoon in this kit, it's freezing cold by now and raining. So its not all plush and cushy with this travelling!!!
Fast forwarding, am now at Franz Josef Glacier; the kayaking trip cant have left too permanaent a scar as I have just booked a 2day kayaking/camping trip in Doubtful Sound. Should be amazing. Tomorrow will tramp up the glacier, was toying with a heli-hike but frankly cant justify the cost!! Im all spent out.........
Still haven't had chance to recount Tongariro crossing but want to get this published for now!! Till later xx
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