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Saved: November 12th 2018
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As an addendum to our information about Napier and the Art Deco architecture: we have learned that the 1930s earthquake completely destroyed the city and it was rebuilt totally in the Art Deco style. It is now considered the Art Deco Center for celebration for a week of the way it would have been in the 1930s, Costumes, cars, activities, etc. and draws celebrants from around the world.
Driving through vast areas of NZ we are struck by the huge size of herds of dairy cows. Their pasture fields are often irrigated and no barns are needed as they winter over in the pastures. Milking sheds seem to be tucked away out of sight. When we inquired about the small numbers of sheep and huge numbers of cows, we found out why. Two years ago NZ suffered thru a terrible drought, leaving very little food for the breeding stocks of sheep. They were slaughtered in large numbers. Cows have now taken over and dairy, in the form of powdered milk, is one of the largest exports from NZ to countries like China, Ethiopia, and other 3rd world countries.
On to Wellington to prepare for our ferry trip across the
Cook Strait. We were able to stay overnight on a Harbor side RV park and walk along the very upscale and busy harbor side walkway past galleries, coffee shops, and fountains as well as paddle boat ramps, and sculptures. Imagine our surprise when we came upon the prep for a concert. Over 200 children from all over NZ were drummng with great skill and were preparing for the dress rehearsal that night with many other musicians. All this to begin the 2 week Wellington Arts Festival tomorrow night. These kids have been to special camps and have been especially chosen from their schools to participate in this very important festival opening. After a dinner on the harbor we actually got to watch a good part of the dress rehearsal including a large professional percussion group and a choral group of 150 spirited singers
Our 3 hour Ferry trip was delightful, including a full breakfast in a lovely lounge and then hot scones and coffee prior to disembarking at 1pm. A smooth crossing on a lovely sunny day and then a challenging trip on Queen Charlotte Drive from Picton to Havelock. Camping areas here are few and far between but
turning at Canvestown down a 7 km. logging road we found a spacious, almost deserted camping ground, For Sale, but still operational. And we had our first experience with the dreaded SAND FLIES! Boy, do they bite! We couldn't believe that there were actually tent campers surviving the onslaught. As we continued on toward the West coast of NZ, we were looking forward to Nelson and it's Saturday Market Day and then to see the glorious Tasman Sea. One of the highlights of travel on the Western shore is Punakaidi-Dolomite Point, where the ocean reveals its ferocity at the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. The variable weather is notorious and we made a well-timed (between wild showers) walk to see the rocks and ocean at it's wildest.
Sharing stories and experiences with other RVers is always fun and we ask lots of questions about the country, customs and directions. Stopping at Hokitka enabled us to see wonderful examples of Maori Jade art, do laundry, have Blue Cod Fish and Chips and get SoOV to take away the sting and itch from aforementioned Sand Flies that are now everywhere.
As we start toward the Franz Josef glacier we were able
to do a WALK IN THE TREETOPS, on elevated platforms that enabled us to view the depth and compactness of the NZ Bush in this area. It has just opened in December of 2013 and is a wonderful experience. We are in the middle of old gold mining country with braided rivers and are currently enjoying a short break before heading to the glaciers.
Oh, and have we mentioned the frequent ONE LANE BRIDGES? Short and long, narrow and narrower, gravel and paved, and it's a breath holder sometimes. We encountered quite a few today as we went to the Franz-Josef Glacier. The only areas with 2 road bridges are in more metropolitan areas. What a gorgeous, sunny day; perfect for the 1 1/2 hr. loop walk to see not only the glacier but the scouring that has occurred over just a couple of years. Lots of dry riverbed to walk thru. Another area where it became very clear that smoking in public is illegal in NZ. No butts, no secondhand smoke, just wonderful fresh air, all around.
We've camped on this lovely Lake Paringa for two nights and watched the mist clear from the lake in the
mornings. It's a popular spot for trampers and bicyclers as well as RVers and tenters. We'll be leaving the West Coast Scenic Rd tomorrow as we head for Haast and will be crossing the Southern Aljps.
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Peter Franke
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Very nice. I like the pictures from the Franz Joseph glacier. Enjoy your trip! Peter