Advertisement
Published: November 11th 2016
Edit Blog Post
Well we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset here in Fortrose last night. The weather was strangely warm at 7.45pm it was 24°c and people were swimming and skiing. Quite bizarre after the weather we have had around the Catlin’s. Awoke this morning (Sun 6/11) to an overcast cool windy day, it was time for a short wander around the estuary past the Whitebaiter’s and fisherman to the Harbour entrance. Just inside the harbour here at Fortrose is the wreck of the steamship “Ino”. The Ino grounded here in 1886 and at low tide you can still see some remains. From here we headed down the road to Invercargill for the night and to organise our trip to Stewart Island. The weather forecast is poor for the next 10 days but tomorrow is looking ok to ferry across the Foveaux Strait. This stretch of water can be very wild so we have worked our travel as best as can around this.
Monday (7/11) and we are up and off on the morning ferry to Stewart Island. The sea is calm and the sun is shining as per the O’Connell Weather forecast. The ferry cost to the island is $135 return
and yes you do need to book for both the ferry and accommodation before leaving the mainland especially during the main tourist season which starts about the end of October through to March. We couldn’t get 3 consecutive day’s accommodation at the only Hotel on the island (South Sea Hotel) or any of the motels. There are quite a few baches that are also available to rent on the island but we opted to stay at Bunkers Backpackers. What an awesome place, having a wonderful friendly onsite manager Natalie added to the charm of this place. We splashed out for a double room (actually we decided we were actually past the dorm room stage). Shared facilities, well equipped kitchen, and outdoor living area to sit with complementary Kaka birds to keep you entertained😊. Both Lance and I enjoyed mixing with all the young vibrant backpackers and decided it would be our preferred accommodation if we returned (we actually didn’t want to leave). After offloading our gear we headed off to do the Village & Bay tour. This is something that we have done in the past (normally overseas) and always on the first day. It gives you a brief insight
into the island and the lay of the land. We find these tours can be invaluable as you soon work out where you want to explore more and at your own leisure. It can be pretty handy when you are only on the island for a few days. The tour is only 1 ½ hours and with the island only having 25kms of road it’s plenty of time. With great commentary the tour took us around Oban (don’t blink, it’s what you see when you get off the ferry) up to Observation Pt, and over to several bays including Lee Bay and the Rakiura National Park Gateway. There were plenty of backpackers heading off on the Rakiura Track today. Fact of the day there is 382 permanent residents on Stewart Island. Last week it was only 381 but a little baby girl was born the other day😊. Tonight we headed down to the wharf to spot the little blue penguins coming in then up to Traill Park for some Kiwi spotting. Yes we saw a couple of kiwis out in the light drizzle but they were the backpacking type not the furry type. Oh well maybe tomorrow.
Tuesday (8/11)
the weather was changeable and we had it all sun, cloud, rain and wind. In the morning we headed off to do the Horseshoe Bay track. Making our way from Oban over to Bathing Bay, the beautiful Mill Creek Estuary, then to the start of the track at Bragg Bay. This is a well maintained stunning track that meanders around the coast to some secluded bays with beautifully cold clear water and views out to the Foveaux strait. A steep walk down to Dead Man Beach (probably my favourite beach on this track) we saw fresh deer footprints in the sand. Further on to Horseshoe Pt and the rainjackets back on. The views from here out to Foveaux Strait and back towards Horsehsoe Bay would be awesome on a fine clear day but today it wasn’t meant to be. From here we wander further into Horseshoe bay then back and via the road to Oban. This afternoon we walked out to the Harrold Bay and Ackers Pt. Following the road past Lonnekers and Leask Bay and onto another nice coastal track. Some of this track is through private land. In Harrold Bay sits a Stone House built by the American
Whaler Lewis Acker in 1835, he made his name in NZ as a hardworking Boatbuilder, farmer and Coastal Trader. Lewis and his Maori wife Meri had 9 children, I can’t imagine having to live in such a small house with that many kids! You are asking where did they all sleep……….. well Lewis had built bunk beds 5 tier high and all the way to the ceiling. You wouldn’t want to suffer from claustrophobia. The track from here leads to the lighthouse (more like a lamp thing) at Ackers Pt. From here there are some great views out over islands and the Foveaux Strait. Heading Back to Oban we take a detour to Evening Bay. Lance decided we should be able to walk around the rocks to Ringaringa beach from here. No you can’t, the rocks are lethal for climbing on oh so slippery. Eventually we make it back to the beach with no broken bones to only have the skies open up and piss down. I'm done its time for wine!
Wednesday (9/11) we take the water taxi to Ulva Island. $20 return and leaves from Golden Bay at set times. Pay $25 each and you can go
when you want. We walked all the tracks over here today. It’s pure magic and nature at its best. I could have spent a lot longer or come back another day just to spend time photographing the birds (Lance could perhaps go fishing). Kiwis (if you are lucky) Wekas, Kakas, Tuis, Bellbirds, Grey Warblers, yellowheads, Riflemans, Fantails, Tomtits, Stewart Island Robins, South Island Saddlebacks……. I didn’t photograph them all but managed to get a shot of the South Island Saddleback, Wekas, Kakariki, Stewart Island Robin and I think a Tomtit but the jury is out on this, maybe someone can tell me if it is or isn’t (see photo). One of the backpackers at Bunkers had a Kiwi walk past him the day before on the track here. We also met a couple getting on the water taxi as we arrived saying they had a kiwi walk out in front of them today😊. What a great day topped off by Fresh Blue Cod Fish & Chips from the famous Kai Kart and a bottle of wine.
Thursday and we have the 3.30pm ferry crossing back to the mainland. This morning we farewelled one of our backpackers Brando Yealvich (Wildboy
adventures). Brando has already circumnavigated both the North and South Island of NZ and today he was starting his circumnavigation around Stewart Island. What an amazing young man we wish him safe travels. Check out his website: www.wildboyadventures.com you can watch his progress. He has all the GPS tracking so we can see exactly where he has been. Now up and off to make the most of our last day we head up the Fushia Track behind the backpackers and over to Golden Bay. From here we walk the coastal track to Deep Bay – Ringaringa Beach and out to the Reverand Wohlers Monument. Great views across Patterson Inlet and across to Native Island from here. A shortcut through the Golf Course to the other end of Ringaringa beach then a short interesting bush track up and over to Lonnekers Bay. It’s time to farewell to the beautiful Stewart Island. Such a magic place and its back on my bucket list but next time we will definitely stay longer. Its blowing 25 knots and a 2 metre swell, let’s see how good this ferry is😊.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.184s; Tpl: 0.017s; cc: 17; qc: 82; dbt: 0.1304s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb