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Published: January 11th 2007
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I was a little nervous starting this walk because it's recommended you do it in 3-4 days and I had decided to do it in 24 hours. After the Abel Tasman I thought it would be better to do this type of hike in less time in order to have a lighter pack. I looked at the maps, distance and topography of the trail and spoke to the Department of Conservation (DOC) who reluctantly admitted yes it was possible to do it in such short time. I also spoke to people who had done it and some said they didn't do it in that time but that you could, but others looked at me like I had four heads...crazy Canadian. It turns out it was completely possible and I wish I hadn't rushed so much because I had time to spare.
As I said in the last entry, the Milford Sound bus dropped me off at the track just before 5pm and I had to get to my hut before dark. The track is basically set up so that you climb up, up and up for the first half and the second half is a steep decent. That first day
I had to climb uphill for hours. Luckily the scenery was breathtaking and it kept my mind off the climb. I'll try to paint a picture. The forest was full of beech trees that were hundreds of years old, they were completely covered in beautiful green moss, and behind those trees were massive snow capped mountain spikes gleaming in the sunlight. I fell in love with beech trees on this walk because they have such exquisite leaves. They are so tiny that when you look up in the canopy it's like there's thousands of tiny sparkling green raindrops waiting to shower you like confetti. There were also numerous parts of the trail that doubled as a waterfall crossing so if there wasn't a bridge I had to use rocks to get across. Along the trail I had yet another reminder of how small the world truly is. Upon recognizing my McMaster t-shirt, a guy walking in the opposite direction stopped me and said he was from Dundas!
I reached my hut by 8pm with plenty of time for a quick dinner while watching an amusing game of poker being played with rocks as chips. Knowing I had a long
day ahead, I found myself in bed by 9:30 hoping for a good night's rest. Unfortunately I was in a room with about 30 other people where it's expected that there would be a few snorers. Well, it turns out I was blessed with an entire chorus of them, snoring at different rhythms and tones. There was everything from the raspy breather to the one that makes you think "oh my gosh, is he choking?!" From the frustrated groans and whispered comments, I get the impression no one in that room would have be too concerned if anyone was choking.
The next morning I was out on the trail by 7:45am ready for the steepest climb of the entire trail. Although I knew there was something disturbingly wrong about blasting Justin Timberlake's "Sexy Back" into my ears at 8am, he's the one that got me up that mountain. Once again, it was a gorgeous day and the mountain peaks that are apparently hidden by clouds more often than not, were completely visible. The views from the top were absolutely breathtaking, the pictures just don't do it justice, but luckily I think I will have a permanent visualization in my
mind for the rest of my life. I kept following the trail (which was literally carved into the side of the mountain) and I reached a pass between two mountains where I was pleasantly surprised to find a sparkling lake! The trail continued along this lake and descended next to its subsequent flow into a large waterfall and rushing river of icy blue water. This part of the trail became very rocky, unstable and slippery. It was the only place I would have gladly taken one of those nerdy walking poles many people had along the trail. I realized I was ahead of schedule (I wasn't being picked up at the end of the trail until 4:45pm) and decided to stop for lunch and a nap in the sun next to yet another amazing waterfall.
The last part of the trail went through more beech forests and had many cable swing bridge crossings over a beautiful clear rushing river. I reached the end of the trail with a couple hours to spare and spend the rest of the time nursing a blister and having afternoon snacks with a little mouse running around the shelter (who I named Tilly).
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Uncle Lorne
non-member comment
Hi Heather I'm sure enjoying your travel blog and your pictures make me feel as if I'm there. Keep them coming. We are printing them off and reading them to Grandmum at the hospital who takes delight in hearing of your travels. With love, Uncle Lorne