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Published: August 13th 2008
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Early thismorning I arrived at the Franz Josef Glacier Hiking Centre and got dressed into thermals, waterproof cloths, walking boots, hats, gloves and ice grips. It took a while before I could find hiking gear the correct size before jumping on the bus for a 20 minute ride to the start of the trek.
On the bus everyone was looking awkward. We were all fighting with our uncomfortable gear and beenie style hats while trying to figure out were to place all of the equipment we were required to carry. I kept wondering if I was wearing too much, or not enough? Was it going to be freezing cold or was I going to overheat with so many layers of cloths? After all I have never done anything like this before!
Once we arrived at the beginning of the trail, it was a delicate walk for 2Km over strangly carved rock formations while getting your feet wet in small streams under freezing conditions. For someone who has never seen a Glacier before, on first sight I found it quite intimidating. Am I really going to climb that? It looks awfully high and dangerous!.
As I approached the Glacier
Our Guide Making A Route
Are you insane - i'm not going up there!! its size seemed to double with each step I took. Although the view was spectacular, I couldnt help but think that it was not how I had imagined. Parts of the Glacier were not as white as I had thought they would be. Parts of it appeared dirty, contiminated by rock and mud.
Eventually I soon realised the full scale and extent of this large lump of ice thats existed for thousands of years. I have never seen anything like it before. It looks awkwardly placed within a stunning landscape. Possibly placed there by the hand of God himself. The fact that something so large is constantly moving is absolutely mind blowing.
At the base of the Glacier we were split up into small groups of 11 people and one guide. Luckly I knew everyone on the trek from the big green fun bus (you know the one!), so it created a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. We put on our ice climbing boots and began the hike. At first it was strange walking with steal teath sticking out of the bottom of your boots, but you soon get used to the strange penguin style walk you must do
to ensure the spikes on your feet don't connect.
As we walked up the initial trail and collected our ice axes, the dark dirty ice began to give way to the most spectacular view. You could just see mountains of blue ice towering above you and from every direction. From the top I found myself looking down on a spectacular view of a george from where the ice had receeded. To the left and right there were massive canyon walls while the Glacier would sit in the middle shimmering against the backdrop of a clear blue sky.
Because the ice is constantly changing, there are very few trails. The guide would often be forced to make his own routes by breaking parts of the Glacier or attaching mountaineering gear to make passages through or over the ice. On many occasions we would wait 20 minutes while the guide would clear the way. I would often find myslef crawling through small ice caves, squeezing between crevises or climbing vertical over ice walls. If you were slightly overweight there would be no way through some of the passages!. On many occasons I couldnt help but think that it would bloody
hurt if I fall.
Because I was at the back of the group, I was landed with the job of undoing and collecting all of the mountaineering gear as we climbed the Glacier faces. Ice climbing is extremly difficult and a real test on your endurance, but its a real buzz, especially when you realse the ice walls could break at any moment.
As we walked accross the Glacier, the guide would often warn us to walk with our legs parted over weaker parts of the ice. As I looked down I realise that we were actually walking over ice with massive drops benith us. On many occasions you could hear the water rushing beneith the ice in underground rivers. I wouldnt like to get sucked into one of those, that would certainly be the end!
While on the trek, I broke one of my ice climbing boots. The steal grips snaped from benith my feet. After a minute of sliding down the face of the Glacier, I managed to alert the guide who had a big bag of spare parts. By some miricle he managed to repair my boots so I could continue with the hike.
We hiked for a full day high up onto the Glacier in perfect clear conditions. The sun shining off the ice provided the most amazing views of cascading waterfalls down the face of the Glacier. In many places the ice was so clear that it appeared blue. To hike on a large lump of ice surrounded by cliffs and rocks is an unforgettable experience. To try and take in the breathtaking beauty of the surroundings is almost impossible.
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