Fiordland - The Sounds of silence

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Day 6 - Te Anau - Milford Sound - Manapouri (275km)

Early start today as we try to beat the cloud cover which tends to roll in later in the day. We have a quick stop down at the shore of Lake Te Anau for a few snaps before heading on the eagerly anticipated journey to the heart of Fiordland and Milford Sound. The drive has to be one of the most picturesque on the planet with snow capped mountains, lakes, waterfalls and mountain streams aplenty (and thankfully an abundance of lookout/vantage points to enjoy them from). En route we stopped at Te Anau Downs, McKay Creek (overlooking Eglington Valley), Cascade Creek (where we had brekkie), Lake Gunn, Mirror Lakes, The Chasm and numerous other points along the side of the road when the fancy took us (which was often!)

Eventually (!) we made it to Milford Sound (of the last 20km after the Homer Tunnel we free-wheeled about 15 of them - felt like I was driving the bus at the end of the Italian Job. Couldn’t stop whistling the tune either! It was either that or The Sound of Music! - yes the hills are alive….). First impressions are v good but the only way to see it in all its glory is from the water so we book ourselves onto a nice small cruise boat and off we go. For the next few hours we brave the cold and occasional rain (totally worth it!) on top of the boat as it cruises up the side of the fiord taking in cool waterfalls and giving us a better perspective of the scale of the place - it’s big! Also get a few seals and penguins thrown in for good measure before heading back to shore suitably impressed. Quick bite to eat in the café before the return journey (only one road in and out) and more photo opportunities leading to an acute case of RSI by the end of the day! Decide to stay in Manapouri for the night as that’s the departure point for tomorrows adventure………

Day 7 - Manapouri - Doubtful Sound - Te Anau (25km)

Early start again as we make the 30 second drive from our campsite to meet our guide and fellow adventurers for a days Adventure Sea Kayaking in Doubtful Sound! Whereas Milford is easily accessible by road, Doubtful takes a little more effort and is therefore much more remote and isolated - 45 minutes by speedboat and 45 minutes by bus through mountains gets us to the departure point for our boat which will drop us off in the middle of nowhere for a paddle around in the fiord! The benefit of this little extra effort is a more personal encounter from Milford as we only have to share the experience with our guide and 8 others (rather than with the other boats/planes/helicopters/tourists buzzing around the place). Given that Doubtful Sound is the 4th rainiest place ON THE PLANET it’s no big surprise that it’s peeing down as we prepare to paddle off into the unknown in our little kayaks but we didn’t let that dampen our spirits (much J).

After a choppy start and a bit of a baptism of fire we make it to calmer waters (without capsizing by the way) and can relax and enjoy the splendour of our surroundings. It was incredible, surreal and a bit bizarre to be paddling in this massive expanse of water with sheer cliffs on either side, and the mist and rain only added to the mysteriousness of the place (felt like we were paddling up the Amazon or something!). Had a great few hours soaking (get it!) up the views and had lots of fun (and got very wet) cruising underneath the numerous waterfalls which were in full flow thanks to all the rain! After the return journey we head back to Te Anau and book ourselves into a plush campsite (oxymoron maybe?) with a private spa which we use to thaw ourselves out and ease the aching muscles. To finish the day off nicely we’ve arranged to meet up for drinks and a curry with 2 of our fellow kayakers Jules and Will (from London baby!) who like us also got married recently and set off on an extended honeymoon!!! Nice work if you can get it.

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Comments

[Becca]

wish I was there!!!!
The place looks gorgeous and you two are looking great....glad to see you in winter clothes as well although even with cold weather it still looks like you are having a fab time. The pictures are great...I think you will be professional wildlife photographers at the end of the year!! Take care and keep the blogs coming. Love Becca xx

[Lyn Fraser]

Atmospheres R us
Hello again! Now I understand why you sounded a bit spaced on Saturday morning Simon. You really would need to focus and think what you had been up to when you are both enjoying so many new experiences. What an amazing country, to be sure. There's no fear of your dad and I being bored when we retire because we have to see this for ourselves. Don't know about the kayaking though-I'll take your word and the evidence of the pics for that trip. Your pics are brilliant-arty shot very impressive as was the one of the trees with the sun glinting through-the rainbow was caught to perfection and atmosphere 1 and 2 appeal no end. Are you sharing the photo taking duties? The scenes are breathtaking but it is always good to see the both of you in some shots. Your camper van does look roomy and you looked very cosy, Heather. Speak to you again soon. I think it is just as well that you are keeping this blog as a running record of your trip with so much going on. I wouldn't want to have missed any of your fantastic escapades. Love to you both, Big hugs, Mum xxx

[Daniel]

The Sound of Silence
Hi both of you. Thought these were some of the most amazing pics of your travels, in fact have one on my page as a screen saver. the mountians look fantastic in NZ. Mum tells me you are home for Xmas. Continue to have a wonderful time,thanks for keeping us in touch and the blog is great. Lots of love to you both, Daniel

[Mum Marley]

Silence is golden ....
I really enjoyed that blog!! There was just something so serene and peaceful about it all - the mirror lakes are stunning - totally magical I think. You are so lucky. Continue to enjoy. Much love Mum xxx.