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Published: March 5th 2008
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Before the storm!
At this point the waterfalls were just sort of..sensible looking! MILFORD: 27-1 MARCH 08
Fjordland National Park - South West New Zealand is known as one of the wettests area in the world, but irrespective of this, contains one of the Worlds Greatest Walks - 'The Milford Track'.
This 53 kilometre track crosses the heart of Fjordland, where a bus and a boat ride drop you off miles from anywhere to begin the 4 day walk. Your collected at the other side on the tip of Milford Sound, one of world's most beautiful Fjords and possibly one of the most photographed scenes that summarises New Zealand. Desolate natural beauty.
The walk has to be booked months in advance, which I did back in October 2007. The huts and the transport is also booked totalling a cost of about 50 pounds per person per day. Food has to be purchased on top. Packs have to be carried for the duration of the walk, unless you have the monies to get this 'escorted' for you. The guided group also stay in plush lodges, unlike the standard huts we stayed in.
The weather was forecasted as follows: heavy downpours, low pressure coming in from the Tasman sea , storm
expected in 2 days time with gale force winds.
Given that this area can produce upto several metres of rain fall a day, and the area is abound with waterfalls, flood plains (even in its natural 'resting' state with 'light rain') you might get an idea about what was about to happen.
DAY 1:
By far the easiest (and driest) of our 4 days. Mainly taken up with transport to the track and a 5 k walk to the first hut. We arrived at the hut at 2 pm. Weather was good. Sandflies horrendous.
By 4pm I was really bored and cold and began reading my Phillip Pullman Dark Materials trilogy snuggled up in my sleeping bag (handily 'borrowed' from Iris without consent! haha).
Bunks in 2 rooms. Mattresses provided. Cold.
We slept ok.
DAY 2:
Walk to the highest part at McKinnons pass. The climb wasn't actually too bad - Ive climbed worse in the Lake District.
For more info on the walk see this:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/templates/page.aspx?id=36694 or google 'Milford Sound'
After continual heavy rain the previous night and all morning, we were pretty wet, but our pricey waterproofs
were holding up surprisingly well. Still warm.
The guide for the posh group told us to 'walk through the water' as he spotted us jumping across a stream in an attempt to keep our cosy dry feet well, dry . Little did we realise what he meant by those words.
Coming down the otherside the fun and games really began. There upon us, was the most expansive, wettest, exciting, bubbling , oozing with energy waterpark awaiting us...
I cant really describe each hour /days after this as its a wet blur but my memory remembers random poignant bits. Here goes:
>The feeling of wet cold grass through my toes as I scurried between huts to brush my teeth (my boots too wet to wear. Forgot flipflops)
>Recall the pungeont 'breath' of the morning 'dorm' air
>Taking that first step of unknown into a gushing waterfall with my (then) dry boot
>Feeling the forceful current of water rush around my knees as we crossed raging river torrents.
> Witnessing the hundreds of magical waterfalls, appearing as vertical cascading streaks of white lightening lining the vertical mountain sides.
>continued... HUNDREDS of 200
ft + waterfalls surrounding you . Jaw dropping.
>The constant dull aches on the shoulders carrying the pack between huts and at the same time dragging heavy wet trousers and boots through squelching grass
> Feeling the warm insulating heat of the water surround my tired feet only to be woken up with more icy fast flowing mountain water pouring in.
> Wading through eerie marsh like flood zones with the trampers ahead warning us of there being an eel in the water - Princess Bride ring any bells?!!!
> Marching against the clock darting between slippery moss covered rocks, guessing the 'steady rocks underfoot' blindfolded within the flooded rivers, walking tired along the swing bridges which wobbled
>Sleeping on my creaky bed being awake in the dead of night hearing the terrential rain patter on the hut roof and the call of the Kea parrot (and being grateful I did what I was told and tied my laces, hanging my boots up so they don't get attacked).
> Huddling around a wood-burner shivering chatting to other travellers equally soaked desperately warming up
>Relishing in a refreshing hot chocolate drink cheekily given us
from one of the guided group guides only because we kept our lead on the group getting to a shelter ahead of the rest...
>Peeping over the edge of the '12 second drop' - a notorious overhang near the 'summit' where you really dont want to push your luck
>Sitting in our hut awaiting the wardens announcement regarding the weather in total trepidation of what was ahead...
>My excitement when I crouched down in the clearing of the jungle, hearing the gust of wind on my face as a helicopter touched down to "rescue" us from the floods.. landing only inches from my face
>Squeezing in the 6 berth chopper cabin, lifting off at an angle, feeling my stomach going, then looking out onto the bush, the area entirely underwater (our path) before being dropped at the other side. (Vietnam war style)!
Only then realising the expansive flooding and what we were truly battling with
>By total surprise enjoying the 'pack' freeze dried adventure meals (Tikka Masala, Lamb Hot Pot, Mexican Chicken etc) and being aghast at how the peas expanded and the lamb granules became 'chunks' of meat!
> Laughing and becoming
hysterical at our path which time after time became a raging torrent of water in places, walking waist deep at times and thinking 'why have I paid for this' - but actually thinking 'this is fun and wouldn't be allowed in England!' Those hours certainly passed quickly...
> Feeling an overwhelming feeling of achievement and relief having counted down 53 kilometre markers step by step to pass the finishing line soaked to the very bone
Our stop at Rosie's homestay, after the Milford, provided the nicest hot shower, the tastiest freebie pudding (marsh mellows and fresh cream with strawberries - divine) and a chilled cat to admire in the warmth of her lounge as I was slowly heating up my inner essential body systems after soggy socks, soaked mid-rifts and shivering legs.
SLEEP.
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