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Published: June 19th 2011
As we reached the top of Dundas Street and turned onto George street, looked down on to the gardens and then across to the Water of Leith, we realised we were finally home....Except that we wern't, not yet anyway. We still had one week left of our global adventure and had arrived in the city of Dunedin. "The Edinburgh of the south" is its nickname - and we could see why, the entire city seemed to be some long lost prototype of the Scottish capital. Apparently when settlers from bonnie Scotland arrived on the Otago peninsula some 150 years ago they got to work on building themsleves a whole new Edinburgh. Hence the city - dunEDIN.
After getting to grips with the history of this bustling student town, we found a spot to call home for the weekend - sandwiched on a busy stretch of road between the university halls and the nearby supermarket. Safe to say one thing we won't miss is free camping our way through these busy kiwi towns! We found a smashing little Irish pub to tuck into a cold pint (or a hot choc in Claires case) and wiled away the rest of the evening
by the warm fire.
The following day we explored the rest of the city, discovering even more of its Scottish roots through its streets, parks, people and museums. We also visited, according to the Guiness Book of Records, the worlds steepest residential street! Although it was tempting to take the camper up, we thought best not push those breaks too far so we opted get a bit of exercise and walked to the top! Evening time came and we found a bistro in town for yet more creamy pies and lamb shanks. Strange wining and dining ourselves one moment only to be pulling our bed out of the back of the camper a matter of minutes later!
Later that week we explored the Otago peninsula - a famous stretch of land reaching out of the pacific coast around Dunedin. We had heard that the isolated beaches and coves were a fantastic place to the cream of New Zealands wildlife. Despite being only a half hour drive from the city, the peninsula has limited roads and beaches only accessible by walking down huge sandbanks. After arming ourselves with every garment of warm clothes in our summer hols suitcases we
set out for a big walk. It was not long before we had descended the mighty dunes and were dodging rare sea lions and seals - as well as the ferocious tides of the Southern Sea! The sea lions in particular were absolutely huge and looked pretty tempermental. Anyway hot footing it past these huge beasts, often only a matter of metres away, made for a pretty stressful afternoon stroll! After failing to spot the elusive yellow penguins known to vacate the beach, we had to be on the lookout as we made our way back up the banks - often almost stepping on the smelly stomachs of the sea lions resting amongst the long grass!
Phew! Out of Dunedin and the peninsula in one piece (somehow!), we headed north to Moreke - a beautiful seaside port an hours drive away. This time we had a bit more luck with the penguins - we spotted several resting on rocks only a few feet from us! After patting each other on the back for our efforts we went to the amazing Fleurs cafe for some fresh grub and a cold drink. Wow - we had heard this place serve up
good grub and we wern't disappointed - looking out over the sunny bay before getting tucked into the tastiest food on the Otago coast was a moment to savour.
After stopping by the picturesque Oamuru township for more penguin spotting, we decided it really was time for a shower. Having gone without for over a week we were getting a bit desperate! The local information centre had recommended a trip to the nearby swimming baths at only $4 a shot. However as we looked out our loose change I spotted a public toilet across the road - and an opportunity to save a few pennies. Lets just say scrubbing ourselves in a public disabled toilet with a slow running tap was hardly a highlight of our trip!
Our final stop of our NZ adventures, and the final stop of our entire tour!!, was Christchurch. We arrived late in the evening - and had completely underestimated how badly the city had been damaged by recent earthquakes. It was liking entering a war zone - buildings collapsing all across the city, lights turned off with fences keeping people out of the city centre - even the famous cathedral lies in
tatters. After accepting the cultural, wining and dining experience was not going to be how our trip was going to end, we pulled our heads out the clouds and turned our thoughts to the people living here. The extent of the damge is awful - most of the historic buildings are gone, there is no running water and the government is now considering demolishing much of the city and building a new town centre.
To fill a couple of days we headed west to the stunning Banks Peniinsula and the former French settlement of Akaroa. It was a great place to explore for a couple of days - nice walks, people and the best fish and chips in the world! A great break - even if were given a few frights by the continuing post quake aftershocks! We also learned of a new concern the other day with the volcanic ash clouds from Chile afffecting flights. Fingers crossed we get home in one piece!
Tonight is our last night of the trip so its back to our trusty campa for a celebratory feast of fajitas. Absolutley loved the Kiwi experience to finish our trip - probably the most
Dunedins Train Station
Most photographed building in NZ (apparently!)stunning location of our entire tour and between that and the weather a great place to adjust to life back in Scotland!
Be seeing you all in just a day or so now, mad!
Love James and Claire x
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