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Published: January 23rd 2006
For the next leg of my journey I caught the Atomic Shuttle down to Christchurch and co-incidentally travelled with Ronan (home town Armagh), chuckling at the drivers random commentary, and he directed me towards a hostel he had stayed in before, the New Excelsior, close to Cathedral Square. The backpackers felt very run-down, grubby and unsafe in a way like university halls and the tension in the lounge was similar to that of a dentist’s waiting room! I felt so uncomfortable that I booked my second night in Christchurch in a different backpackers down the same street called Cokers but it wasn’t any better, so unfortunately I came away from the city with a rather gloomy impression. The only stimulation I had came from the changing exhibitions in the city art gallery and a maze of studio spaces with old-fashioned crafts in the nearby arts centre.
I travelled again using the French Connection Scenic Shuttle to the picturesque town of Akaroa, stopping at Birdlings Flat Beach to search for colourful stones and agates and enjoy spectacular panoramic views from the Hilltop Tavern which sits on the rim of the extinct ‘open shield’ volcanic crater forming the Akaroa Harbour. With
a further stop to taste cheese at Barrys Bay I urged the driver to call the farm where I was due to be staying to advise them I’d be late for the pick-up. He assured me that they’d wait and, although the kiwis are as laid back as can be, I inevitably missed the connection! Onuku Farm Hostel has the friendliest, most accommodating staff in the world as they agreed to meet me at the information centre in Akaroa later that afternoon for a lift up the hill to the farm. The hostel has stargazing huts, daily volleyball matches and a very chilled-out atmosphere with a homely feel - highly recommended!
I’d been thinking about it for a while, and feeling frustrated at having to rely on public transport for the majority of the time, I decided to part with some hard-earned cash and buy a Nissan Pulsar to do some serious exploring with wheels. Since having the car I’ve driven all around the Banks Peninsula and have visited some off-the-beaten-track places, such as one of the best backpackers in New Zealand at Le Bons Bay, which offers a delicious gourmet dinner and a bath beneath the
stars. I also borrowed the owners kayak and paddled out in the bay to watch Hectors dolphins swimming around in their natural habitat - truly amazing! I've been having a fabulous time using my new tent, camping right by the waters-edge at Pigeon Bay and by the surfers beach at Sumner and enjoying the glorious sunshine. I thoroughly enjoyed the museum at Okains Bay, trying to understand a bit about the Maori way-of-life and what this special country meant to them.
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