Advertisement
Published: March 1st 2006
Edit Blog Post
Broombrush and Mountains
Broombrush is lovely, but at an expense. Lake Coleridge, called Whakamatua by the Maori, is 17 kilometers long and 3 kilometers wide, and lies nestled in the Southern Alps. The majestic local landscape was formed from the combined forces of glaciers, earthquakes, wind, rain, frost, and volcanoes. Mount Gargarus rose above the basin, and was an arm’s reach from our “Base camp”. We joined up with Andy and Dave, two British transplants as crazy about New Zealand’s countryside as we are, on a Boxing Day trek.
Andy, our fearless leader, started the trip off with a bang as he escorted us through a section of dense broom brush. From a distance this bush looks deceivingly soft, with its butter yellow flowers shining in the sun. Up close and personal, the bush engulfed and swallowed us whole. We dipped down into the bush and were soon educated on “bushwhacking” in the true sense of the word. In single file we trampled through the jagged branches and thorns, gouging small cuts and scratches into our limbs and clothing. At one point Dave nervously called out, “Andy? Where are you?” Andy calmingly called back from just two meters ahead, “Up here.”
We resurfaced a half hour later upon the
Tarbells on Gargarus
Overlooking the north peak banks of a small stream with relief, before looking up in horror. Within meters of where we had whacked through the brush lay a clear, wide farm track! No matter … we were refreshed thinking that we could loop around that section of brush upon our return. We followed the farm track for a wee bit, but soon veered off of the “highway” toward our destined peak: Mount Gargarus.
In essence, tramping in New Zealand involves finding a place, marking a destination, and walking from one point to the other. We learned quickly that carrying a topographical map and compass is nearly essential for navigating over New Zealand’s land. Our route up to the peak was performed in true kiwi fashion - direct with as few switchbacks as possible. The sun’s rays were bright and warm as we moved closer to the top. However, we encountered cold 65 kph winds once at the top. Hoping to find a sheltered lunch site, we curiously walked further over the relatively flat summit toward two other peaks. Beyond these southerly peaks, we were moderately sheltered from the winds as we sat to eat lunch. The four of us discussed the formation of
Scree Slope
Mindy showin' how it's done! the mountains and tributaries leading to Lake Coleridge, and plotted our descent down the mountain.
Again, we pulled out our topo map and found ourselves heading from point A (the top of the mountain) to point B (the bottom of the mountain). We scurried down a scree slope, which is a slide of loose gravel. Scree hiking is discouraged in many places because it quickens erosion, but here it is popular because the tracks are infrequently traveled. Stepping over the loose stone gave the sensation of skiing in boots! Bryan later learned that all scree is not created equal. He started going too fast down a steep embankment, and slid into a thin patch of pebbles over hard pack. Like walking on marbles it was difficult to stop, and Bryan found himself in a self-induced landslide for the next 15 feet! Thankfully, he survived, and we continued our descent into the valley.
As we crowned the saddle, we ran into our friends, Siobhan and Dave, who were rising up from the sheep shearer’s lodge. They conveyed a sad tale of a misguided horse, named Paddy. Just yesterday we had laughed as the horses were nuzzling against the windows
Castle Hill
Dave, Siobhan, Andy, Mindy, and Bryan atop a local "hill". of the lodge, but the events of today were no laughing matter. Paddy was, again, loitering around our compound. He rested a front hoof on top of the car, and a devious smile escaped his lips. With his shoe, he then carved a backwards “P” signature into the hood of the car. Not yet satisfied with his work, he succeeded to graffiti two other cars until he was caught in his crime. Upon hearing the news, Farmer Brown recommended moving the cars into a fenced area to the rear of the lodge. After the update, we commenced the walk and retreated to base camp.
Nothing is better than good ‘ol rest and relaxation after a couple of days of tramping. Our ambition for the remainder of our holiday at Lake Coleridge was to absorb as much scenery as possible … while exerting the least amount of energy. We strolled up Castle Hill with Andy, Soibhan, and Dave. Along the way we caught bonus glimpses of the Wilberforce River, mountain vistas, and a few passing sheep.
As we drove away, we glanced out the car window and noted Paddy standing apart from the group of other horses. He started
Looking out
The Wilberforce River and mountain surrounds to approach the car, but there were no further “misteeds”. Charges were not pressed.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.167s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 12; qc: 60; dbt: 0.1226s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Pam Snow
non-member comment
WOW!
What wonderful pictures! It looks like you both are having a fabulous time! I envy you so much. Please keep us posted with pictures as you have! Lot of Love from New Hampshire! Pam