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Published: January 23rd 2006
Fang Hill Track
A sneak peak at the glaciated ranges early in the morning ...December is an interesting time to move to a new country. In years past, the countdown to Christmas Day slips by quickly as we get wrapped up in the hustle and bustle of the holiday season. This year, we decided to wait until we were in New Zealand to do our Christmas shopping, but had not put much thought into our plans for December 25th. On Christmas Eve, we were invited by Mindy’s new co-worker, Siobhan, to join a group of about 15 Peninsula Tramping Club (PTC) trampers. We scurried to gather camping gear and food, and headed out for Lake Coleridge later that afternoon.
Our ride to the lake was marked by countless sheep pastures divided by tall and well-manicured hedges -- not the aged stonewalls we’re accustomed to. After about an hour and a half into our entrancing drive, the pace shifted and Dave, the driver, began weaving into and around corners on a loose gravel road. The scenery transitioned from thick tussock with small undulating hills to thick tussock with big undulating mountains. Small riverbeds stretched alongside the roadway. We drove for nearly three quarters of an hour before coming to the end of the road …
Mountain Sheep
We are in these sheep's territory! into a private residence. Did we take the wrong turn? A gentleman soon approached our car, and after pleasant introductions Farmer Brown pointed us towards his sheepshearer’s lodge just beyond the hill. We embraced the posh sheepshearers lodge at Glenthorne Station, where several trekkers were already enjoying lounging in the sun.
Soon we were hanging in the lounge, a simple and warm room with several comfortable seats for all to kick back. We looked out the window at the depth of the mountains in the late afternoon light as we chatted with our new acquaintances. Later, as we prepared dinner, six hungry horses came sniffing at the window! We giggled as we shooed them away, and carried on. We dangled minimalist Christmas decorations, and then turned in early that night. After all, we’d been told that Santa stops in New Zealand first.
On Christmas day, we rose early in anticipation of a walk along the Fang Hill Track. After a morning cuppa, we departed the shearer’s lodge with fellow trampers, Murray, Barry, and Denise. The track cut through several gated sheep pastures, and at one point we passed a carcass of some unlucky herd member. It gradually wound
Water walkers
Mindy and Murray crossing one of the many streams of the braided Wilburforce River. Dry as a bone! closer to the Wilberforce River, and crept into the surrounding mountains. Then the track crossed a stream. As New Englanders, we know that one should only get their feet wet if absolutely necessary. We took off our socks and sneakers and gently hopped through the stream. To this Murray replied, “That’s not recommended in New Zealand. Here, you just get used to walking with wet feet.” In the 22 crossings that followed (some of which were waist high), we kept our sneakers on…and enjoyed it! Trying not to become a statistic, we interlocked arms while plunging through the sweeping waters of the Wilberforce. Over the course of our trek, we encountered Fang Hill and Moa huts, two rustic shelters for herders and trampers. At the latter, we stopped for a brief lunch, but were soon pushed back to “base camp” by the menacing clouds.
After hiking for seven hours, we were glad to be back in the comfort of the lodge. Our Christmas dinner had a Kiwi-Brit-American-Irish flavor. We sipped Bristol Cream Sherry -not eggnog- before eating a bounty of holiday food. We topped off the evening with a Yankee swap (called a PTC swap) and some Christmas pudding.
Moa Hut
A true Ritz Carlton! For a small donation travellers can bunk up. Although we missed our families, we welcomed this unusual, warm, and wonderful holiday experience.
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Carol Angus
non-member comment
Christmas
Jay and I both were also glad to avoid the hustle/bustle of the Holidays. The stress to buy the right gifts, etc. Made us appreciate what is really important in life. What a terrific experience for you. You go girl! Take pictures of your place of employment and give us PT's et al a taste of what it's like there. Pura Vida Carol