Wellington, New Zealand's Capital City - October, 2023

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Get ready for mammoth national parks, dynamic Maori culture and world-class surfing and skiing. Wellington can be mellow or action-parked, but it’s always epic. Labelled the world’s “coolest little capital” in 2011 by Lonely Planet, Wellington is renowned for its vibrant creative culture. On a sunny, windless day Wellington is up there with the best of them. For starters, it’s lovely to look at, sitting on a hook-shaped harbor ringed with mountain ranges that wear a cloak of snow in winter. Victoria timber architecture laces the bushy hillsides above the harbor, which resonate with birdsong. As cities go, it’s rather small but the compact nature of downtown gives it a bigger-city buzz and being the capital, it’s endowed with museums, theatres, galleries, and art organizations completely disproportionate to its size. Wellingtonians are rightly proud of their kickin’ caffeine and craft-beer scene, and there’s no shortage of beard-wearing, skateboard-lugging, artsy types doing interesting things in old warehouses across town. Sadly, windless days are not the norm for Wellington. In New Zealand this city is infamous for two things: its frequent tremors and its umbrella-shredding, hairstyle-destroying gales that barrel through regularly.

Wellington has a downtown area that is easy to explore as it has a treasure of architectural styles comprising wooden cottages from the 19th century to Art Deco masterpieces. The Museum of Wellington City & Sea and the Museum of New Zealand are great places to learn about the city's Maori history. Sip coffee and people-watch in bustling Courtney Place or take in the sights from scenic Mount Victoria. Visitors can go on a nighttime tour of Karori Wildlife Sanctuary and dine at any of the numerous gourmet restaurants and award-winning cafes.

An Interesting fact - Wellington takes its name from Arthur Wellesley, the first Duke of Wellington and victor of the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. His title originated from the town of Wellington in the English county of Somerset. It was named in November 1840 by the original settlers of the New Zealand Company. It became New Zealand's capital in 1865, with Parliament officially sitting in the city for the first time on July 26, 1865. The first known discoverer was a Polynesian explorer named Kupe in 950 AD.

My arrival into Wellington was heralded via the Intercity Bus Company, which operates over 100 daily services nationwide on modern vehicles, designed for New Zealand conditions. Traveling around this country by bus is easy and economical with multiple departures from all main towns, cities, and communities. The 12-hour ride from Auckland to Wellington is not a trip for everyone, despite the scenic views obtained from large picture windows of the double-decker coach. Multiple stops are included – most dependent on passenger destinations lasting just a few minutes for pickup and drop off only – however 4 extended stops are always made for bathroom/food requirements. Arriving at the main Wellington Train Station, platform #10 at 9pm (this section of the station is reserved for long-haul buses), it was a short walk to the main lobby entrance where taxis were available. This is also the terminus station for the Northern Explorer Scenic Train which runs between Wellington and Auckland 3 times a week in both directions. A short cab ride to my central hotel ($13.70 NZ - $7.99 US) and I was ready to begin my Kiwi adventure.

Tip: Definitely book these bus tickets online and save with their cheapest fares. Purchasing my roundtrip ticket (Auckland/Wellington) online a few weeks prior to arrival, I snagged a bargain price of $58 US for the lengthy drive across the North Island. By signing up on their website, you’ll receive periodic emails offering up to 50%!o(MISSING)ff tickets for both islands – keep in mind website prices are shown in NZ Dollars and at the current rate of exchange ($.59 to the US Dollar), these tickets are cheap. Download their app – you’ll find the bus tracker feature very helpful.

My hotel is right in the center of the city, just a short walk from the famous Wellington Cable Car, one of New Zealand’s only running funicular railways. It provides a unique form of public transport from the city up to the suburb of Kelburn and the cable car summit. Operational since 1902, it carries on average more than 1,000,000 passengers every year. Open every day (except Christmas Day) from 7:30am until at least 8pm (closing later on weekends) the entire trip takes just 10 minutes, with adult tickets starting at $11 NZ roundtrip or $6 NZ one way. Multiple trip and family tickets are also available. Follow the Cable Car signposts around Lambton Quay to find the hidden Cable Car Lane in the heart of the city center.

Wellington's iconic Cable Car travels through three historic tunnels and over three bridges. There are three intermediate stations: the residential areas of Clifton, Talavera, and Salamanca. Victoria University of Wellington and Kelburn Park Fountain can be accessed from Salamanca Station. Enjoy the panoramic views of Wellington city and harbor from the top of the Cable Car. Two “must see” locations up here are: (1) the Cable Car Museum, open daily from 10am to 5pm, free admission. Here you will experience the original Winding House and climb aboard one of the famous “relentless red rattlers”. Discover the unique system that has transported people between the harbor and the hills for more than a century. (2) the Space Place, open daily from 10am to 5pm (Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday nights until 11pm), Adult tickets $14 NZ and kids $9 NZ, located in the Botanic Gardens.

To get back down into the city, there are several walks through the hillsides of the Botanic Gardens, including a beautiful 40-minute stroll back down to the city center via the historic Bolton Street Cemetery and the Beehive. Or if you prefer an easier route back down, choose the return journey option. This allows you plenty of time to enjoy the views and explore the surrounding attractions at the summit before heading back.

Tourist Tip: take full advantage of Wellington’s fantastic public transportation system to get around by purchasing a Snapper Card. It’s cheaper, faster, and easier to manage than cash, and can be used to pay for bus and rail travel in the greater Wellington region. There are a total of 14 travel zones but unless you’re planning on leaving the central city area, Zone 1 and/or 2 is all you need to buy. A Red Snapper Adult Card initial purchase is $10 NZ and you add credit (“topping off”) as needed for anticipated rides. These cards can be purchased in advance online or from a variety of vendors around the city. This travel card is a real bargain – for example: a single one-way bus trip averages $2.90 NZ paying cash. Using Snapper, this same ride is $.92 NZ!

My favorite way to explore any city is via the HOHO (Hop On-Hop Off) tour bus, but unfortunately it was not available during my stay. Apparently, it only operates during the high season (summer months) and I was here a couple of weeks too early! Thankfully, the Metlink pubic transportation system is extensive enough across the city, I really didn’t miss not using the HOHO bus.

The secrets out. There are so many incredible things to see and places to visit in Wellington. It may be smaller than Auckland, but what it lacks in size, it certainly makes up for it in character and activities. The best-kept secret must be the many free and/or cheap things for tourists to enjoy. Whether you’re visiting the capital especially, or just looking for things to do in Wellington before a ferry trip, consider my list of “must-see” spots. Get your camera ready! Let’s get started.

Wellington Museum: ever wondered why people toot their horns when they drive through Mount Vic Tunnel? Or why Wellington and not Nelson succeeded Auckland in becoming the country’s capital? Discover the many intriguing stories that make this city the world’s coolest little capital. Open daily 10am to 5pm, free admission, located at 3 Jervois Quay, Queens Wharf.

Nairn Street Cottage: believed to be the oldest cottage in Wellington, it’s home to three generations of stories from the Wallis family women. With entry via guided tours, experience intimate snapshots of Aotearoa through the decades. Stroll through the beautiful heritage garden and gain a fresh perspective on Wellington’s history. Open daily during the summer months 12noon to 4pm, Adult tickets $8 NZ and kids $4 NZ. The admission fee includes a tour of the cottage with an experienced guide who will take you through each room. You’ll be transported to a time when the early colonial people of New Zealand were establishing a new way of life in a new country. Learn about their daily lives, from washing clothes, cooking, and making candles from meat fat, the guided tour is a fascinating insight into how life was lived in those early times. It’s located at 68 Nairn Street, Mount Cook.

Red Rocks: head out to Owhiro Bay and as you would expect, it features stunning red rock formations and a beautiful rugged coastal walk. The walk is easy and flat, and you may also see fur seals (but keep your distance – they can get aggressive sometimes). The walk is free, with parking at the start of the track. You keep going to Devil’s Gate and then turn around and come back.

Puffin Wine Bar: the capital is known for its bustling bar scene. Whether you’re a fan of fine wine, craft beer or anything in between, chances are you’ll find something to your taste around Cuba Street or Courtenay Place. Spend an evening or two visiting the Puffin Wine Bar which offers incredible wine, along with an almost art deco décor that’s well worth a look.

Wellington Botanic Gardens: Many cities and towns in New Zealand feature a botanic garden, however only a few are on the same level as these. When asked for cheap things to do in Wellington, I strongly suggest visiting the Botanic Gardens. It’s just a short cable car ride up from the CBD, which isn’t far from where you disembark the Picton to Wellington ferry. You then walk back down through stunning gardens and nature for free.

Wright Hill Fortress: this location is often overlooked as one of the best places to visit in Wellington. But it really shouldn’t be. It was built during World War II and features underground tunnels and gun emplacements. Walking through these tunnels out in Koriri is a very interesting experience for anyone, and it’s best to attend when there is an Open Day. Adults usually cost $10 NZ, with kids under 15 just $5 NZ.

Arborist Rooftop Bar: as I’ve previously mentioned, there are some truly fantastic places in the capital to enjoy food and drink. What makes many of these locations special is the views or the quirky decor. One such place is the Arborist or, more specifically, the rooftop bar at The Arborist. As well as being able to enjoy your favorite cocktails and yummy food, the view is spectacular from the top of the city skyline. This is a fantastic place to visit and it’s just a short walk from the ferry terminal at the wharf.

Beehive: the Beehive is hard to miss in Wellington. It’s the Executive Wing of the parliamentary complex. The building is shaped like a beehive and is where the Prime Minister, along with other Cabinet Ministers, work daily. Join one of the insightful tours and enjoy the parliamentary grounds. There’s even a playground for kids. The Beehive is in Pipitea and just a short distance from the ferry terminal.

Scorching Bay: don’t be put off by the word scorching. This beach and coastal area is one of the great free things to do in Wellington. Just a short drive or bus ride out to Miramar, it is fantastic for swimming and relaxing. There's a big grassy area to kick a ball around. Plus, you may even be able to spot the Interislander ferry from the shoreline. Scorching Bay is definitely a must-visit beach in the area.



Mount Victoria Lookout: this is visible from nearly all of Wellington. It’s located right near the center of the city. Consider taking one of the best walks in Wellington, starting from Mount Victoria, to get to the lookout. Once you reach the top, you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the whole city and harbor.



Zealandia: calling all nature lovers - this ecosanctuary features fantastic walks and the opportunity to get up close and personal with rare wildlife. Visiting Zealandia is an incredible experience, as this lush forest is in the city. Zealandia can be found in Karori, a short bus ride from the Interislander ferry terminal. Entry to Zealandia is $24 NZ for adults, children between ages 5 and 7 are $10 NZ and under 5 years of age are free.



Weta Workshop: Wellington is famous for its contribution to film, particularly Weta Workshop. This special effects company has helped bring popular films to life, including: The Hobbit, Avatar, Thor, and other Marvel Studio movies. If you love films, you’ll want to visit Weta Cave. It will be right up your alley with authentic collectables, prop replicas and other interesting film memorabilia.

Kowtow: those on the hunt for must-see fashion in Wellington, look no further than Kowtow. Since 2007, the company has emphasized locally sourced, natural, and sustainable materials to create fashion pieces that you have to see to believe. It started in Wellington, so its flagship store here will satisfy your cravings for fashion and shopping. Kowtow is located on College Street in Te Aro.

City Gallery Wellington: some people describe Wellington as the cultural capital of New Zealand. With locations like City Gallery Wellington, you can see why. This gallery is home to some of the most stunning art in the country. Those looking for free things to do in Wellington will also be happy to know that most of the exhibitions here are free. Although donations are greatly encouraged. City Gallery is close to the Interislander ferry terminal on the waterfront.

Bucket Fountain: when some people think of Wellington, the first thing that comes to mind is the cute and colorful Bucket Fountain. When you’re walking down Cuba Street looking at shops, you won’t be able to miss this art installation. No visit to Wellington is complete without a picture with the Bucket Fountain.

Meow: last but certainly not least is Meow. No, this isn’t a pet shop but a music venue. Wellington is lucky to have a lively and active music scene. Several venues are showcasing a range of genres and artists. One of the mainstays on the scene is Meow. Must-see acts are performing all the time. Meow is just near the city center in Te Aro.

Did You Know?

· It is the world's southernmost and most remote capital of a sovereign state.

· In the Maori language, Wellington has 3 names: Te Whanganui-a-Tara meaning “the great harbor of Tara”; Poneke meaning “Port Nick” short for Port Nicholson; Te Upoko-o-te-Ika-a-Maui, meaning "The Head of the Fish of Maui."

· Every 5 years, a year-long slow earthquake occurs under Wellington, stretching from Kapiti to the Marlborough Sounds. The quake was first measured in 2003 and reappeared in 2008 and 2013. It releases as much energy as a magnitude 7 quake, but as it happens slowly, there is no damage.

· It’s the windiest city in the world, with an average wind speed of 17 mph.





· Has over 400 cafes and restaurants which on a per person basis rivals that of New York City.





· Is the craft beer capital of New Zealand, with more than 20 craft breweries in the city.





· Legend has it that the Beehive, the city’s well-known Parliament Building, was in fact designed on the back of a napkin as a joke. The designer never thought for a moment it would ever be built.





· Lambton Quay is 328’-656’ from the harbor. It got its name from being built on reclaimed swamp land following the upheaval of a land mass during a major earthquake in 1855.





· With the multiple steep streets throughout the city, Wellingtonians are known to be some of the fittest New Zealanders, with 11 percent of residents commuting to work on foot.





· Starting back in 1999, Wellington was the base for much of the filming and post-production work on The Lord of the Rings movie trilogy. Directed by local Peter Jackson, The Lord of the Rings helped transform Wellington filmmaking into a hundred-million-dollar industry. On December 1, 2003, the city hosted the world premiere of the final in the trilogy - The Return of the King. Thousands of people lined Courtenay Place to catch a glimpse of the Hollywood stars on the red carpet.

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