Hiking and hot springs heaven


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Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Taupo
February 17th 2012
Published: February 17th 2012
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That double bed was just amazing – it was a real effort to drag myself out of it this morning as I wanted to stay there all day. Can’t wait to see my bed back home – I’ll probably not get out of it for the three days I have before I start work again.

But leave it I had to, as 1) the car’s on the meter and will be clamped by 10am, and 2) I’ve got stuff to see in Napier, and a journey to undertake to Taupo. I wish I could extend out my time here in NZ as I’ve been having such a great few weeks and it feels terrible rushing around the North Island, trying to get things done in time. However it’s a challenge – and I love a challenge!

I drove up to Bluff Hill – where I had planned to cycle, however I’m out of time. From here, I could look out and get a panoramic view of Napier - the port, the docks and the hills - which was fantastic. Onwards, I went back into town to see Art Deco weekend fully underway – everyone was dressed up, polishing the cars and working out which sightseeing tours they would be undertaking this year. The sun was shining and the scene was just fantastic – you were totally transported back to the 30s and I felt considerably underdressed in my head to toe white Boyzone-impersonation ensemble…

On the road and it was a windy 2 hour trip through the countryside to get to Taupo. I remember little of it – there weren’t many places to stop on the way, certainly no brown-signed tourist spots to write home about. Just hills, sheep and deer today. You realise that you tend to see a lot of the same when you do these long drives – as above, plus what must be the world’s supply of blue and white hyacinths. And roadworks – lots of roadworks – where, like Australia, you see more female roadworkers than men. Crazy stuff.

Once in Taupo and the lake dominates the town. It’s huge, less charismatic I’d say than the South Island Otago lakes, but beautiful all the same. After a quick bite to eat, I decided a trek was in order so off to Huka Falls I went. Huka Falls are the most breathtaking falls I’ve seen. Ice blue and white in colour, with the tremendous sound of the water crashing below echoing off the valley walls. You felt like you could jump in, yet you knew that if you did, it’d be game well and truly over.

I took a 7 km walk over to Craters of the Moon. I could have driven far more easily and in half the time but I felt motivated to work off the lunch I’d just scoffed. Through the wooded valley for 1.5kms, over the main road and up a 1.7km hill to get to the attraction. By the time I got there I was beetroot, with the sun and my inability to reach my bottle of water in my backpack taking their toll…

I had no idea what the Craters of the Moon attraction was. I’d not read anything about it. I just thought it sounded fun…

Turns out, it was mindblowing. One enormous bumpy field, reminiscent of Tellytubby land, with craters emitting sulphur-smelling steam, or full of bubbling mud. The ground felt hot to the touch – the lava was bubbling away below the surface. It’s been less than 10 years since the craters last erupted, and the signs warning you that the ground is unstable are constant reminders that you’re walking on a volcano. I was told the walk would take 45mins to an hour, with 20 mins extra if I hiked to the top of the scenic hill. 2.45pm. The car park where the broad bean is, is 3.2kms away and closes at 5pm on the dot. Time to power it…

I bombed round the craters – stopping for photos of course but overtaking everyone else with a determined, if rosy, look on my face. Powered to the top of the scenic lookout, now looking like I did after the marathon, with people standing aside to let me through. The women on the gates couldn’t believe I’d bombed round the place in 35 minutes including my stops. They gave me the look of ‘crazy lady’…

As I headed off out of the park, they clearly thought I needed help to get back to the car as they sent their male colleague after me in a 4x4 to pick me up and take me straight back to the bean. I declined – I was in the power walking zone now, plus whereas the whole trip there was uphill, the return leg was going to be a doddle.

Which it was. I made it back in super quick time, so jumped in the car and headed to the hot springs. Here, on the banks of the river, hot water streams out so you can swim along the banks of the river without freezing to death. I hopped on it, and it was beautiful – I realised my age again, as I must’ve been one of the oldest there, and certainly not equipped with an esky and beer like the kids. However it was a good place to relax (-ish – difficult when there are so many signs around saying you’re in a prime thieving zone…).

Back at the hostel, and it’s like Hi-de-Hi. Chalet-complex-turned-hostel. 3 Oxford students walking round saying ‘yah’ a lot, and begging Daddy for money on Skype. An older man with wind problems, in the same manner as roommate Rachel from last night. Still, it’s only another 24 hr stop here, as Rotorua – or Rotovegas as Janine informs me it’s nicknamed – is next, and a 2 night stop in the same place. Luxury!

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