Rotorua

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To paraphrase; “Today, it has mostly been raining.”

I awoke to a cacophony of bird song. Each camp has been selected with a purpose and this, because it had a thermal pool. It was also remote and therefore surrounded by trees; those very trees that attract the noisiest birds. Still, it was pleasant enough, waking up to bird song - and rain! Not being in a hurry, I had another 30 minutes dozing before forcing myself up.

After the usual breakfast, map reading and getting the van ready, I set off, hoping to visit the Kaiate Falls. With all this rain, they should be worth seeing. I never got to see the water tumbling down a series of cascades because I never saw any signposts and, indeed, had no idea in which part of the yellow splodge (see yesterday) I was. I am still none the wiser!

Not to worry. The journey south was completely uneventful although I did stop in Te Puke (the Kiwi Fruit Capital), not to go to “Kiwi World” but to look at all the others going there! Instead, I continued on to Rotorua, stopping first at the Okere Falls. My first surprise was the poor signage - I almost drove right past. My second was the fact that this was the site of the 4th hydroelectric scheme in New Zealand. I can only presume the other three have at least developed a tourist industry!

Walking up the hill, I noticed a couple standing with large cameras looking over the waterfalls. They asked whether I’d seen them yet. I replied that I didn’t realise there were any trout or salmon in this river and they responded, in a perplexed manner, that they were referring to the white water rafters! So, changing lens, I went further up the hill (and down the river) and waited for the raft. Totally mad - for once, I was drier!

Continuing on, I soon arrived in Rotorua. Sitting slap bang on the Pacific Ring of Fire, the smell of sulphur pervades everything. Fortunately, with the fine drizzle, the smell was somewhat dampened but every now and then, the wind would change and the smell of rotten eggs would waft under one’s nose. However, almost every house in the city has it’s own hot-tub!

Having found somewhere to park (and topped up the phone), it was time for lunch. So, a traditional Sunday Lunch it was - coffee and chilli beef and bean nachos! Enough though to provide enough aroma to take away the sulphurous smell!

For some reason, Rotorua has that colonial feel. I’m not sure if it was the Tudor style buildings or the elderly gentlemen clad all in white playing bowls amongst the 1970’s council style public gardens - but it definitely reminded me of Earlham Park in Norwich. Unfortunately, the rain was now becoming more persistent and I was beginning to feel cold.

For that reason, I opted for a walk around (a bit of) the lake. Whilst the environs were very pretty, I doubt a change of weather would have improved the environment. Smelly steam and clouds of mosquito marred what would have otherwise been a very pleasant walk, particularly as the goslings and cygnets were being given swimming lessons. Returning to my motorbed, I opted to get wet in a different location.

Te Puia is part of the Whakarewarewa Thermal area comprising a Maori Arts and Craft Institute and a thermal village. It also contains the largest and most active geyser in the region, together with mud and hot water pools. The rain however would be a dampener. I waited for the guided tour and instead was ushered into the marae with a group of excitable Norwegians for the cultural show. We were greeted by a fearsome looking warrior waving his spear, widening his eyes and shaking his tongue. He then placed a branch on the ground and our “chief” (a Norwegian named Hedwig) was invited to pick it up. Having gained the trust of the Maori, the show continued with demonstrations of stick games, music and dance. Naturally, we received a demonstration of the most famous haka. Most amusing of all (to me, at least) were the three male warriors. Two were clearly Maori; stocky, flattened noses, tanned whilst the third may have been Maori but looked more Pakeha (European). He was pale skinned, short and very weedy! Every time he tried the threatening stance (legs bent, spear forwards, eyes wide and tongue out), he looked silly rather than a threat!

That over, it was off for the tour. Unfortunately our guide, who looked Maori was actually Australian and had only lived in New Zealand for 5 years. However, her family lived in the thermal village and she was of the appropriate Iwi. I have to admit, the mud pools didn’t look at all inviting, though the fine mud had been turned into porcelain and kaolin over the years. The geyser was quite spectacular but because of the rain, was more steam than anything else but of most interest was the cooking pool. The entire site was that of a Maori village and a series of hot water pools were traditionally used for cooking, until fairly recently.

Looking in the local free paper, I thought I might eat tonight at the “Woolly Bugger”, but I notice that it’s closed on a Sunday.

I’d woken up in the rain, spent the day in the rain and I arrived at the camp site in the pouring rain. I checked in, switched on the gas for the water, plugged in to the mains and made a cup of tea. Ironically, despite all the rain, I also filled up my water supply.

Tonight, I am exactly half way through my travels around New Zealand. I hope that this second half will be as exciting, as interesting and as thought provoking as the first half.

Distance travelled: 96km / 60 miles

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Photos

World of World of Kiwi Fruit
No - I DIDN'T go there!

Okere Falls
Despite the rain, I was actually drier!

Rotorua
Tea, anyone?

Rotorua
Oh, gaw on Farder ...

A Scruffy Bird
No idea what sort (yet)

The Cooking Pot
Yes - this really was used as a cooking pot