Coromandel search for gold, bay of plenty and Roturua geothermal town


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Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Coromandel Peninsula
December 21st 2009
Published: December 21st 2009
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Heading East of Auckland across the flat plains to the cormandel peninsula we start by camping on the coast road to coromandel town just near the gold rush town of Thames. It v. much still has a wild west feel although strangely enough the first campsite has a butterfly house with all sort of species in. A number were imported from S.America an lo and behold the blue butterfly that we spent our honeymoon in Brazil trying to photograph was there, and this time we got him!!! (or her difficult to tell..)

Drove out via East coast to visit Waikawau beach, but firstly happened upon Little Bay, a nice inlet for a swim and snorkel. We were v. dissapointed to find 2 people on it, as usch we move on to Waikawau itself, a moderate 10 min tramp over sand dunes with lots of specialised flaura and fauna(that reminded me a little of camber sands) led to an empty coastline with a coastal lagoon feeding the see. We both tried snorkelling but could not find much on this occasion, and was put off by the rip tide that was coming in.

Then travelled on to Cathedral cove, a small sea cave formed over many thousands of years by coastal erosion. It was a moderate coastal tramp through mixed forest and Gemstone bay (where we stopped for an obligitory snorkel, you may be able to see a pattern emerging!). We did see a few fish in Gemstone but unnervingly they began following us around, perhaps they though we were food!

Cathedral cove did not dissapoint, it is a wonderfuly beautiful creation, definitely where the beautiful people hang out (and us when we are on holiday). A Bride and Groom arrived and Lisa became amorous so I had a sandwich. In terms of enjoyment nothing beats the remoteness of Waikawau for me but Cathedral cove was certainly impressive as the photos will testify.


Next morning bleary eyed and half asleep we awake from our freedom camp on Shakespeares cliff (right by cooks bay where captain cook orginally landed) and head out to hot water beach which is a geothermal hot spring beach. We were expecting it to be a dissapointing tourist melee. When we arrived there were but a few people on the beach and my first few digs proved unsuccesfull (Lisa had conveniently left something in the car). The next dig hit the jackpot but it was so damn hot i burnt my feet, Lisa was laughing and still not digging. Finally we hit upon a perfect spoty with cold water moderating the temperature and we settled for a soak. Then the tourists arrived, like all real estate the good spots had gone, ha! more fool them we got up early. A couple from Bristol nicked my spade and then had the cheek to undermine my foundations, Bristolians!!! not from Bath obviously. We forgave them and shared a pool with them until the tide came in and wiped out the beach for another day.

The following day we headed down to Waihai which is en route to the Kharangake Gorge and had a chillout day. We camped in a free Department of Conservation campsite by the gorge. The following morning we engaged some DOC workers in converstaion about the routes to take. We started on the Crown track which took us downstream from Dicky Flat campground with views over waterfalls and tunnels galore. The windows walk is just that, a sequence of tunnels with viewpoints (originally used to dump rock) ever 50m or so, a must see. Also impressed with the old mine workings such as the pelton wheel and pipes/tracks, they really must have grafted hard. Even the remains of a dunny perched on the side of the cliff, not a good way to go thats for sure.

From there we dropped down to the remais of the Talisaman Battery, now hosting an amazingly tranquil cafe that used to be the only roadhouse/hotel complex in the area for all the miners. Coffe and cake were had before we set off on the railway loop, a sequence of bridges and tunnels build to shift ore away from Kharangake gorge through the mountains, these are spookily dark tunnels with the faint echoes of yesteryear adorning the long tunnels as the wind blows through. The views from this track are amazing as it intersects with the state highway, it was still in use in 1976 as a passenger service.

A steep climb up to the scotsman gulley led us to the Dubbo track where we looped back to the campsite via dense bush and forest, kept my eye out for some gold but no joy, guess ill have to look for a job after all....

Next to the Bay of Plenty and Mount Monganui, we hiked this to get a great view of Manganoui and PapaMoa, the pehutekawa trees were in full bloom for Xmas and we cooked a curry on the beach.

Next stop Rotorua and its geothermal activity. Upon arrival Next stop Rotorua and its geothermal activity. Upon arrival we went to Hells Gate, dont bother!! It was a dissapointing smelly geothermal experience, to lift our spirits we though a nice meal in town. What is NZ famous for, lamb! I tried it but it was a creamted mess, what a day these are sen to try you.

We lifted our spirits with a visit to Tarawera lake and falls, which also had a scenic reserve.

The following day our faith was restored with the quite excellent Waiotapu thermal wonderland, the acidic and sulphurous lakes created some beautiful colours most impressive of all being the champagne lake.
It didnt smell too bad either (hmm, Lisa has now showered)

Found the mud holes where the plops and gurgles made us laugh, memories of James and curries come floating back in my mind.

Also found the secret hot pool from a riddle in a book, happy to find them but it seems others may have also as they were well used shall we say.

Stayed at Waikite thermal valley where hot spa pools are included witht he camping, these were all fed from a stream boiling at 98degc (well almost chemistry was not my strong subject), all from a single geothermal vent with the stranges of flaura and fauna. By the time that the water reached it had thankfully cooled to 38-40 degc so we could soak our weary limbs.

Onwards now to Taupo and the wonders of the Tongario national park for Xmas, will be in tocuh!!


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Cathedral coveCathedral cove
Cathedral cove

used by air new zealand in their publicity shots, also for local weddings and you can see why!! (prizes for spotting the bride although this is not a spot the ball comp)
cheeky seagullscheeky seagulls
cheeky seagulls

following shots are censored


23rd December 2009

Wonderfull time
looks like you guys are have the time of your lifes with your trip wish i had done something like that, ;)

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