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March 29th 2010

Published: March 29th 2010

Me Too

Ready to Go

Arataki Visitor Centre

Following in Ed's Footsteps!

As I was given a hard time by a few of you lately by the blog being dominated by overseas trips I'm adding this local walk... if you count a four day slog over the hilly Waitakere Ranges named after Kiwi mountaineering hero -Ed Hillary - a walk.

Did I mention Fran was carrying a tent?

This 70km trail is a collection of walking tracks, service tracks, and roads and was opened in January of this year. We were very lucky with the weather on our trip and this made the going a lot easier (this is a relative term). The track is described as

steep, rutted, rooty and slippery - you may be up to your ankles in mud

So we packed everything but the kitchen sink and carried our own food and water for the trip - pretty much the standard for changeable NZ weather and isolated tramps. We left Scott behind and so its really Hel & Fran go mad in the bush, but Scott and Wal did join us for the last day.

Day 1 - Breakfast at Titirangi

Arataki to Karamatura 11kms

We started the day with breakfast at a cafe in Titirangi, we may be been going bush but there was still

Native Snail

Arataki Track

time for a bit of luxury.

Scott dropped us off at the Arataki Visitor Centre where we got the guide booklet and we discovered a giant native snail lying on the track Fran wanted to boil it to keep the shell, Hel released it to the wild with a lecture on protecting native flora and fauna...

Hel's lecture on mainly flora continued most of the day, complete with many mangled latin names as she goes on and on about the various plants and trees on route. However the native Bergonia is impressive, as is many Nikau and large Kauri on route... well worth all the foot washing (to try and control phythoria from killing these giants of the forest).

Fran distracted herself with track maintenance, engineering works and a rail line...

This first section of the trail comes out by the Huia Dam (a 1971 water supply), and a local loo.

Further on the track it joins up with the road to Huia where we divert into the town (is town to big a word for a one shop stop?) and treat ourselves to an ice-cream.

It is worth noting that the Huia store

Railway Crossing

Nihotupu Tramline

also does a nice line in fish and chips, real coffee but no beer.

Back up the road we end up at a very pleasant ARC camp site at Karamatura, set up the tent by bush and overlooking the stream. Very pretty and refreshing, though the hills (cliffs above are somewhat daunting).

Day 2 - Cruel and Sadistic Hills

Karamatura to Pararaha 14.5kms

In the morning we head up the pretty Karamatura loop walk and then up the sheer hill towering in front of us.

Fran gets pretty carried away with the rock formations that are the result of the old volcano that blew itself up long ago to create the ranges... Hel focuses on the hand over hand climb and tries to forget she suffers from vertigo.

Still its an impressive view.

About this point we realise we've left Scotts ball of string hung up as a washing line - sorry Scott we know how attached you were to that string.

Its up and down, up and down, quiet steep and thankfully mostly dry (very unusual for the Waitakeres)

We don't waste much time looking for the 1863 wreck

Impressive Earthworks

Slip Track

of the HMS Orpehus as its way to windy to hang around long on the cliff edges for Hel's liking.

At about the fifth peak of the day we look down at the road leading to Whatipu with some relief, thinking we'll be down on the flat in time to brew up coffee for lunch.

Not to be...

We forgot that this is Ed's training ground and he has a fondness for steep climbs, so two more ups and downs sees us finally coming into Whatipu to shelter from the wind.

Fran rants something about it just being cruel and sadistic, Hel just grips to the cliff side in the wind.

After Whatipu, suitably fortified with fresh coffee and topped off with drinking water we set off up the hill again(what else) on to the second camp ground.

Fran has vauge recollections of camping around here with ATC in her days of being an air force cadet.

Hel recalls all the horror tramping trips of her youth, mostly in the rain, usually involving endless steps and an uncomfortable bread box... this is perhaps why she now prefers the flatter camino walking between bars

Botanical Lesson Part I

Pipeline Track

over the carry everything kiwi treks.

Coming down a steep section we find abandoned shovels and packs from some invisable track maintenance gang.

Eventually, we come out into a clearing with a fantastic view, like something out of King Kong.

"How far now?" Hel asks, "Oh about another 30mins" Fran answers, before they round the next corner and stumble on the ARC Pararaha Campground - very handy.

It's still windy and it takes three attempts to locate the tent in a suitable spot. Still not bad as we are again the only ones using the camp site.

Day 3 - What do mean Dry Area?

Pararaha to Craw Farm 17kms

Thankfully we where fore warned that we would have to ford the stream early on the days tramp so we start off in our sandels before changing into our boots after crossing the stream.

We spend a short time on the board walks in the Raupo wetlands before heading, yup you guessed it up the hill again and along the ridge.

The forest is very dry given it hasn't rained for weeks and Hel is surprised by the large numbers

Bridge Inspection

Nihotupu Stream

of Kowphai growing in the area, great Nikau palms too.

We snake along with Hel boring Fran with the botanical collection before coming down steeply to Karekare.

There is a lovely grove of Pohutukawa and a short flat section before hitting the steps and climbing up to the top of the cliffs again.

After a very long climb we come up to a cell phone tower and make a call to log in with Scott and tell him we are not dead - yet - and to coordinate with him on where to meet tomorrow.

Wal is coming up by train to Auckland and the pair of them are due to meet us a Bethells for the last day.

Hel is really looking forward to a the walk down the hill to Piha where she is fantasizing over a vegeberger and cold beer at the Piha cafe.

First we have to negotiate a rather long walk with little to no verge along a busy narrow road, before coming down through the forest again to Kitekite Falls...

We had not counted on coming out at the top of the falls - which are a

We Are Here!

Hamilton Track

40m sheer drop - and had to climb down the side of the falls (bot that bad a rather good track and new stairs makes this easier then in the past) before coming out at a group of swimmers at the bottom of the falls.

We are on a roll now, Hel can taste that cold beer as they stride their way along the forest walk and then the local road into Piha, promicingly a guy is standing by the roadside drinking a Heineken as they near the cafe only to find that it is 3.01 and the cafe closes at 3.00pm!

The takeaway section is open though so we settle for toasted sandwiches... it's about now that Hel remembers that Piha is a dry area - and that you can't buy beer locally!

Oh well just as well as there is another long climb back out of town and up to the final camp ground.

More stairs, more hills, the novelty of the tramp is wearing thin, especially as when we pass by the Anawhata DOC farm we still have to walk another 45 mins up the road to Craw Campground.

We debate about

River Crossing

Karamatura Track

staying on the walk way, crossing the farm and freedom camping in the gully.

But it's been so steep we can't rely on a finding a nice flat area by a stream.

So it is off to Craw, which is at an old farm homestead but has no water and no stream... not very good after a long day.

We end the day watching the emergency helicoptor fly past - turns out it we to rescue someone at the falls.

Day 4 - Walking to the end of the light

Craw to Muriwai 27kms

Up late and pack the tent away for the last time.

Walk back down the hill and find two women scared to cross the Anawhata farm paddock because of the cattle, so we shoo them away and safely cross.

Turns out they had waited 2 hours for someone to rescue them - shesh they are only bloody cows.

Of course once we get across the farm and down into the gully we find a perfect camp site next to the stream, damn it.

Never mind good to know for next time - next time... we

Compound Rockflow

Karamatura Track

don't think so the novelty of the walk is wearing thin.

Fran's doing a great job with the tent and being pack horse though.

We head along making good time and are enjoying the thought of ditching our packs at Bethells Beach when we join up with the boys.

It's still pretty hilly but we are out of the wind and the countryside is interesting. We come down out of the hills and onto the edge of Lake Wainamu, which is an impounded water way blocked to the sea by a giant black sand dune. Weird.

We take time to have a swim at the waterfall - cold but refreshing - and walk down the Waiti Stream to meet Scott and Wal who are waiting with lucnh and cold watermelon.

There is also cold beer in the chilly bin but we'll have to wait to the end of the day for that.

The plan is for Wal to join us and walk the final section - the Te Henga Walkway - while Scott drives around to the end of the track parks the car and walks in to meet us.

We figure 4

I'm Stuck

Donald McLean Track

to 5 hours, the weather is fine and we've been making good time, but as Wal is 79 next week and is recovering from a run in with a problematic blood clot we want to take out time and enjoy the walk with the elder statesman of our tramping family.

We start of well and get to the top of the cliff to be rewarded with fantastic views - and a crappy track!

Given all the publicity over the newly opened Hillary Trail, and about the Te Henga Walkway in general, it is really sad that DOC (NZ's department of conservation) have dropped the ball and don't maintain this walkway better.

The rest of the trail is under ARC (Auckland regional council) care and they have done a far better job; Hel's pleased to see her rate dollars are better spent then her taxes.

Still we have made it this far and there is no turning back!

We slowly scrabble along the goat track that pretends to be a track and watch to see that no-one falls down the sheer cliffs into the sea below.

Wal is slowed by his health but he is

Top of the World

Puriri Ridge Track

a real trooper and steadily keeps going.

We work into a pattern of walking, and taking breaks in the little shade available.

Hel's a little concerned that Scott is no-where in sight as he should have joined up with us within 3-4 hours, and she is worried he has fallen of the cliff.

Eventually we make it to the end of the trail as the sun sets across the ocean.

Scott is waiting in the car! He gave up after a few hours and figured we had turned back - as if!

We are all to tired for beers so drive back to Auckland and stop off to pick up a chocolate milkshake for Wal to help pick him up. The sugar does the trick and we are soon home and telling tall tales of past trails.

In all not a bad trek - and we successfully knocked the bastard off!

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