The Mystical Nuku Hiva

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If you could use one word to explain a place; I would use mystical for Nuku Hiva. On arrival we pulled into a small bay, the backdrop was filled with volcanic peaks thrusting into the sky while being enveloped by a lush green tropical rainforest. The swells had picked up and the cliffs that overlooked the sea where being thrashed by waves whilst the power of the ocean splashed high into the sky and against the rocky landscape. True to our nature, we dropped anchor just as fast as we hit land to explore.

5 of us rented an island truck, packed a cooler of beer and with no map and no plan started driving. Our truck was heading uphill on the only road we could find. Nuku Hiva is the second largest island in the French Polynesian chain; home to only 2000 locals. We learned the entire town had two restaurants, one bank, a handful of local stores and the rest of the island was left untouched and pure. Truly a place I enjoy to explore as most people in the world will never step foot on Nuku Hiva.

As our truck climbed the hill we noticed a lookout point and stopped for our first beer and photo shoot. As we peered over the edge we were now overlooking the bay from the opposite side and looking down upon our floating home. We all started to get a bit excited because we knew today would be a good day. As we snapped away and chugged the local brew we heard in the background a rustle. And much to our enjoyment we spotted our first wild horse. Sitting calm above us on the cliffs edge eating the grass and enjoying his day in peace; not seeming to mind at all that 5 foreigners were invading his space.

Many hours, beers and pit-stops later we found ourselves a hut on the edge of a cliff and sat to enjoy the moment. From here we could see the open ocean, volcanic mountains, a beach below us and a waterfall behind us. Not knowing how to get to the waterfall, we decided to barefoot it and follow our ears to the bottom of the falls.

If ever there is a climatic moment in uncharted travel – it must be when you trek barefoot through the mud and forest with no idea where you’re going, only to find yourself sitting under a beautiful, cascading waterfall. My words can’t actually explain this moment, but I assure you it was mystical.

It’s now noon and our cooler is empty. True sailors….

We found a local soccer field and smelled a roasting fire, pulled in to find a small, unadvertised restaurant in the valley of the mountains. We ordered fresh fish and rice, a bottle of wine and spent the next few hours playing soccer with the local children who were enthralled with our white skin and cameras. To end our time in Nuku Hiva we had dinner at the only hot spot in town. Tonight on the menu, fresh fish and rice…. As we chowed on the local spices and rum the village’s choir began to sing and dance in their tribal tongue. The energy that was circulating within the hut was visible. As the song and dance went on, we sat wide-eyed that we were witness to such an event. The singing alone gave you goose bumps as her voice bellowed and echoed on and on.

Nuku Hiva is filled with wild horses, tropical green landscapes, waterfalls, beaches and beautiful Polynesian locals. It was mystical in every sense of the word.

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