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And so I find myself 12 days into our long voyage across the Pacific Ocean. 12 days may not seem long. Let me assure you…….it is.
The first few days were rough and I mean this in every sense of the word. Seas were hitting our bow head on. The motion of this front to back bobbing and constant throwing of your body sent most of us into a sea-sick fury. Running for our beds and Dramamine to sleep off the nausea and hoping to wake to a calmer swell. As the hours faded into days, the seas eventually cooled and we set comfort into our daily routines while cruising the big blue.
We sit navigational watch 8 hours a day. I have the unfortunate schedule of 12-4 in the day and 12-4 at night. These 8 hours a day are spent sitting in the pilot house watching the Pacific waves coaxing us from one island to the next. The vastness of this ocean and its depths are mind boggling. To pass the hours we watch BBC’s South Pacific Documentaries and it is ever so present of what lies beneath our hull. This Ocean is home to magnificent creatures
both big and small, most of which we have only recently discovered. The mystic world that exists below is so unknown while being so close and to ride on its top-side becomes a privilege.
But let’s put the glitz and glamour to the side. I am bored. I am so bored I saw a log floating in the water and got excited about it. We see nothing for 12 days. No boats, no planes, no marine-life. Just the water that surrounds us with what feels has no end. I have read my books, watched our movies, slept more than I care to admit; I attempted to work out but each time I was in downward dog the boat tilts and I am flung onto the teak deck to find yet another bruise on my leg. The food bores me, we ran out of soda, fresh fruits and veggies. We are down to drinking imitation milk and eating weird concoctions such as fish casseroles and sketchy stews. We can’t play scrabble because each word we place down slides off the board as a swell hits, not to mention my undefeated reputation was challenged a few times and I no longer
think I like the game.
Here’s another truth. We are sexually frustrated, horny if you will and want a drink that includes some form of liquor. Keep in mind although we have been at sea for 12 days, we have been away from land nearing 5 weeks either found at anchor or at a floating dock in a remote desolate island. I find myself daydreaming about having a bottle of wine while a gorgeous Tahitian man pours it into my glass and then whisks me off into bed. These types of thoughts become a bit frustrating while not only are we at sea, we also have roommates – you do the math. Not to mention we are 2 girls living with 7 men on board. We have started to dress more matronly to say the least, and at times contemplated Burka’s.
As the rocking becomes a constant irritant; the moral levels lower. We have nothing left to say to each other. We have had more than enough time to know life stories, past experiences and future goals. Our 8 hour watches become more silent. I have no questions. “What did you do today, how was last night, anything
planned for tomorrow?” I know the answers.
Our deckhand had to wash the boat down underway and I volunteered myself out of boredom. As we scrubbed the exterior and moved from sundeck to bridge deck my attention span for cleaning was being tested as it many times does in this career choice. I began to peer over the Port side and noticed a large spout of water explode from about 80 feet away. Just as I was about to point out the location to our deckhand a large black humpback whale with a white underbelly breached out of the water, twirling in the air and splashing down on his back. My heart rate jumped. A moment so brief, so special and that I was privy to. The whale came from the water a total of 3 times all of which only last seconds. Then took a long lasting breathe and dove down into the deep abyss.
I just witnessed a humpback whale breach out of the ocean in the essence of his territory in the middle of the largest body of water that exists.; a needle in a haystack. I am immediately reminded of why I am here
Humpback breaching
Photo uploaded for example, as in the split seconds this happened I did not have my camera ready. and why I do what I do. The split seconds that take your breath away are far worth it.
*Note* This blog's location was placed in Nuku Hiva because I am not given an option to choose the middle of the Pacific. We are 10 days from South America and 3 days from Nuku Hiva. I chose the closest location.
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stephen Smyth
non-member comment
Know the Feeling !
Those long days on an empty ocean sure take the romance out of sailing don't they :) But one thing is for sure, at the end of it , all the boredom is forgotten and the experience becomes priceless and cannot be taken away from you forever. Tell the captain you do however need a sundowner once a day , 1 drink each and it can change the monotony big time. Dress up parties are good to.......! Run out of batteries have you :) Enjoy...miss you this side. We are sitting in Harbour Island, owners and family moved into their house on the beach today, so we sit here alone for a week. Then off to Abacos for a week. This was thr trip we were hoping you would be with us....oh well......roll on Tahitian men and cocktails :) XX