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Published: September 12th 2010
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Today I finally made it to the island I’ve been dreaming of for years - Taveuni.
This morning I packed my bags, said some goodbyes and checked out of the Beach House. I caught the express bus on the main road, right in front of the resort, and took it back to Nadi to the airport. I had a bit of time to kill, so I browsed the few shops, had lunch in a café and read a bit. Then it was time to board my flight.
The flight was with Fiji’s domestic airline. Being a domestic flight, I knew it wouldn’t be very big . . . but I had no idea just how small the plane was going to be! There were only 13 of us on the flight - and even if it had been filled to capacity, there were only 22 seats. There’s no carry-on space inside the cabin. There’s no crew manning the flight. One of the two pilots climbed in through the back passenger door, welcomed us, pointed out the emergency exits and life jackets and then flew the plane. And all of the passenger seats could see straight into the cockpit and
out the front window!
I’d been in small planes before - for flightseeing in Alaska and when I was little in a crop plane on the farm - but those planes don’t go that high off the ground. This teeny little passenger plane we were in still took us above the clouds! The flight was smooth in that there wasn’t any turbulence, but in a plane that small, you really feel every little dip or rise. And I decided that I didn’t like the view out the front of the plane, it made me more nervous somehow. Yes, go figure, that I, the girl who travels all the time, is a nervous flying. So the flight to Taveuni felt like an adventure!
But what a beautiful adventure. From Nadi, we flew over the North side of the main island, Viti Levu. On my side of the plane, I could see the villages and forests and rivers of Viti Levu, then the shore, the reefs, the ocean and some of the outer Northern islands. After about 45 minutes, we left Viti Levu behind and sailed over ocean and a few smaller islands. Then we were over Fiji’s second largest
island, Vanua Levu. Eventually we reached it’s far-East end where the reefs below us were immense. I guessed at the time (and later figured out I was correct) that we were passing over Fiji’s famous Rainbow Reef - where I hope to dive in a few day’s time. Then, across the plane’s aisle and out the other side of the plane, I caught my first glimpses of Taveuni - green mountains, tall palm trees. As we neared the island, right below us I could see a couple of people snorkeling in the ocean.
I knew that the airport was going to be small. I was expecting a small airport. But I was expecting a terminal. Taveuni’s airport terminal is really a booth with a sheltered area - about the size of the snack bar at the ball park back home. There, I met the driver who took me to my accommodations.
Usually when I’m travelling on my own, I stay at backpackers. When I was doing my research for my trip, I had difficulties sorting out where I would stay in Taveuni because, well, it’s so small that there’s not many options. There are a few budget accommodations
but they are at the extreme far ends of the island’s road, not really near the various spots I’d like to see. When searching for bed and breakfast options, I came across Makaira By The Sea and that’s where I’ll be staying while on the island.
Makaira is a BIG step up from the places I usually stay at. It is owned by a couple who are originally from Hawaii. The property is set on a big hill that overlooks the ocean (and at the bottom of that hill is a beach). There is a 180-degree view of the coastline from their spot on the hill. There are only two bures (traditional style building) for guests to rent out. Basically, I have my own private cottage! I have a beautiful bedroom, a private bath, a porch with a hammock and kitchenette - all of it has views of the ocean.
When I first arrived at Makaira, the staff sang a welcome song for me. It was very sweet and the sort of personal touch that I never get when I’m travelling! (It also was slightly embarrassing, kind of like when people sing happy birthday to you - I
just sort of stand there smiling and feeling awkward). Roberta (one of the owners) showed me around the property. Then we sat in the café bure and discussed what I wanted to do with my time on the island. We sorted out my plans for tomorrow and then I had time to get settled.
For dinner tonight, I ate in Makaira’s Palm Café along with Roberta and John and the other guests who are from New Zealand. John is quite the cook! We had a barbecue feast of fresh fish, chicken, rice, salad with homemade dressing. Then we lingered over our empty plates chatting for awhile.
Now I’m all curled up on my big cozy bed in my bure. Who knows what I’ll dream of tonight, now that my dreams of Taveuni are coming true . . .
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swills82
Sarah Willett
jealous of your beautiful diving! Can't wait to hear all about it. Congrats on checking yet another one of your things off your life's list. The pic of the airport shack is hilarious! Your place looks LOVELY! You are totally in paradise. ENJOY!