We spent a week on Rarotonga at the Pacific Resort on Muri Beach at the east end of the island. After the drizzle and cool of Aitutaki, we were a bit disappointed that it didn't seem much better there. It struggled to get out of the high teens, and was definitely too cool for swimming. Ah well we thought, Western Samoa is a lot further north; it'll be warmer when we get there in a week's time. The very amateur photographer in me was keen to get some snaps of the sunset. All was going to plan until I realised we were at the wrong end of the island for that. No matter, I thought, surely sunrises would be just as good, so I got up just before dawn one morning and made my way down
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