The Gibb River Road

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Thurs 14th is a momentous day on our journey as it marks the day we start on the Gibb River Road. This is a 660 km stretch of notoriously corrugated road which extends from just north of Kununurra across to Derby and allows you access to many wonderful Kimberley locations- gorges, creeks, wilderness...its reputation is that it is arguably one of the roughest tracks in Australia.
In the lead up to heading off we had spoken to dozens of travellers who had traversed the road and, as with most things, heard many varied and contrasting stories- some such horror stories of how bad the road was and the damage it caused to car and trailers, and some on how it wasn't too bad! We decided it all comes down to previous experience and conditions on the day so with a little excitement and trepidation we started the road. We had a big day of driving planned as we wanted to get about 150km along ( which can take several hours on these sorts of roads). We found it a little rough at the start but really just like any other corrugated road.

We made it to our destination- Ellenbrae Station. This was a great little bush campground ( and had amazing scones)! We got in and set up and then headed for the waterhole about 1km down the track. It was an oasis, lined with pandanas and provided a much needed relief from the 40 degree heat. We got back to camp and found it full and were hoping that everyone would follow the unspoken yet widely known bush campground etiquette (quiet voices in the night and camp fires to a minimum - sound resonates through the still of the night, people are up at 5am in west due to the heat and early sunrise, and in small campgrounds fires smoke out everyone). To date we had been extremely lucky and shared campgrounds with other like minded travellers. However, upon returning to camp and seeing a group in the centre setting up for a big night with a raging campfire we were a bit dubious. Anyway all was going well and the smoke was at a minimum but when every other camper had called it a night and rowdiness of the group had not subsided at all I thought a little polite discussion was required. Luckily for everyone in the campground my little chat was met with general understanding and an effort was made to keep things down so we all got some sleep. Next morning we headed out and had a quick swim while doing some birdwatching and then packed up and headed off as we had another big day of driving- heading into Bachsten Creek camp.

The drive was pretty good and we were going well but came across a car on the side of the road. We pulled over to see if we could help and realised it was people who stayed near us at Kununurra. They had absolutely shredded the sidewall of their back tyre and were in the process of changing the tyre but having quite a bit of difficulty. We got out and helped them get it sorted. They were so grateful and it was pretty quick really so all good for everyone. We were then on our way again and got into Mount Elizabeth stn late morning. Here we needed to fuel up on diesel and get the key which would allow us access to our next real adventure.

We were heading onto the Munja Track into Bachsten Creek Bush Camp. This is one of the most remote locations in Australia, being 143 km from the nearest station and over 500 plus km from the nearest town! It is a 143 km stretch of pure 4wd only track- much tougher than the Gibb. We were all excited and just a little nervous as we had read how challenging this track was! Anyway we got the key, fuelled up and headed out. The 143 km usually takes a day, or over, to travel and so we were planning on breaking the drive with a bush camp along the way. We made it to Drysdale river camp late in the day and were sharing it with two groups who were doing the same as us, but on their way out. They were lovely and great to talk too ( especially about track conditions) but showed us their photos of the trek and filled us with questions as to whether we really should be towing the camper trailer in there! As a result Chris and I spent the night both restless and thinking about whether we leave the campo there and go in with the Landy, supplies, tent etc..In the morning we weighed up our options, risks and decided to give it a go with the campo.

So we took off at 7am to give us 10 hours of daylight. Being escarpment country the tracks are extremely rocky and thus very slow going and low range 4wd terrain. The sections we were most wary of were the 3 jump-ups. These are 2-4 km stretches each where, apart from being sandy and rocky, include a steep incline/decline. When we hit the first one we got out and assessed the terrain and formulated a plan- Chris would drive down and I would get out and take footage- this way he was assured there would be no shrieking in his ear! He did a brilliant job and we are very grateful to have the Landy and campo, such competent off road vehicles. The remaining jump ups were very much the same and slow and steady down through them- climbing up these on the way out will be a whole different situation to consider!! Merlin was loving it the whole way and to be honest, it wasn't as scary as I was prepared for. Although Chris has done much harder tracks (and crazier terrain) this was the most challenging track he had been on when towing the camper so found it very satisfying to arrive at our destination. Finally, at about 2:30pm we rolled into Bachsten Creek camp and were blown away. We were the only ones there apart from the caretakers and owners who are all just the most amazing and generous people. The vegetation is beautiful and lush (pandanas and paperbarks) alongside a cool clear natural pool where it's safe to swim. There are some special touches in the facilities at camp, such as a shade shelter with a sink and fresh water, lights at night and solar lights throughout the camp to light your way to amenities. We chatted to the owners and caretakers for ages, then set up camp and went for a swim. It was an early night as the next day was also a big one- we were on the hunt for the Black Grasswren.

We got up at the usual 5:15 had some breaky and then Chris was off to try and find these very rare birds (only found in very few spots on the Kimberley). Merlin did homework and I cleaned up from all the red dust in the food boxes and on the campo, courtesy of the Gibb River Road. Chris came running down about 30 minutes later and said quick come with me. Merlin got his camera and we all trudged up to where he had been. We sat quietly and patiently and then before our very eyes the most striking little bird appeared before us. It is a little chunky and is generally black, with a russet chest and delicate white striations over its head and down its neck. It was the most beautiful sight and so lovely for all three of us to see it together (reminiscent of the Palm Cocky experience on Cape York just 4 years earlier). This bird is endemic to the Kimberley and the only reliable location where previously found has been completely wiped out due to fires. We felt very special to experience this moment. Over the next four days and nights we had the most wonderful time as this place is really untouched wilderness. Any animal fossicking around at night is a native mammal- and some of which endemic and quite rare such as the golden backed tree rat, scaly tailed possum, northern spotted quoll, and monjons ( smallest wallaby in Australia). We had a wonderful close encounter with the northern quoll when one decided to taste our frypan we had just cooked dinner on, and when we realised it panicked and ran and hid in the camper trailer - we had a quoll in our kitchen! So for the next 30 minutes it was quite cute and comical as I was trying to lure it out to safety ( and yes he did make it out and back to his home in the wild). Apart from the mammals, there were also some amazing frogs and other reptiles. By chance a wildlife ecologist from Brisbane and his partner arrived to stay for a few days. They were terrific and as they had such similar interests we spent time together chasing the wildlife. Our days generally followed a pattern of rising early to see the birds and do walks, swimming, reading and game playing during the heat of the day, early dinner and then spotlighting in the campground at night for these amazing little creatures. We also ventured further afield to Wren Gorge and it was spectacular scenery with huge escarpments, lush vegetation and a cool, deep pool to enjoy. It is heartbreaking to think how this will all change when the cane toad ( which has been in all of the other parts of top NT and WA we have been to), arrives to this part of the country- a real tragedy. We stayed an extra night as we loved this place and Rick and Ann (owners) are so generous and welcoming (they even baked us a loaf of homemade bread- delicious!!).

On Thursday 21st we packed up as we had to make the journey back out on the track to Drysdale river on our way to Mornington. None of us wanted to leave as this was such a special place but we vowed to make a return journey as soon as it was possible.We started on the track out and although we were much more confident (now knowing what we were encountering) we were still wary as we knew the tracks were a completely different proposition to tackle. All was going well until we came to a creek crossing with a steep descent and very sandy rise. Unfortunately it appeared that previous people must have gotten stuck and created huge holes which we needed to negotiate and were going to be very tricky with the campo. Another plan was formulated in which Chris would hug the hard ground on the side to miss the ruts and I would do the essential filming. He did a brilliant job getting us through and again the grunt reliability of the landcruiser came to the fore. We were all elated when we got through as this was one of the most difficult rises, given the condition it was in ( and the hidden hole under the surface). Upon assessing the campo we realised we sustained some damage but we were mobile so continued on. The drive was going well and campo doing a great job. We got to the 3 jumps ups, which were my concern and I could tell my heart rate had substantially increased. We got through them well though ( Chris found them no problems at all) including the last one we had to tackle ( which was by far the steepest and rockiest). The rest of the track handled really well and we arrived in at camp just before dark and it had taken about the same time as on the way in- it was great to get there. We had a great cool down in the stream, had dinner and then Chris and Merlin went frogging. They saw at least 3 species, and had the most exciting time. Merlin seems to have 'the knack' when it comes to catching frogs and geckos so that he can identify, photograph and then release them and is absolutely loving being out with all of the wildlife. Next morning we packed up early and headed out and took it easy all the way. We were really sad to leave Bachsten behind as this had been such a unique experience for us all. We ventured along the Gibb and got to Over the Range repairs. Neville confirmed our campo diagnosis and that we could get it repaired in Broome. As it was a Friday of the long weekend, we decided to stay on our course and head for Mornington wilderness Camp- especially as we knew the road condition was good and we should make it once we take it easy. Mid afternoon we arrived at Mornington Wildlife sanctuary and set up.

This is a wilderness camp set on over 563,000 ha of conservation land owned and operated by Australian wildlife Conservancy (AWC). Established in 2001, AWC is a non government organisation which owns and manages more land for conservation and protects more threatened species than any other. They have 26 sanctuaries (3.8 million ha) across Australia and their mission is to reverse the tide of extinctions that threatens Australian native wildlife. Mornington is a protected area, home to 38 mammals, 210 birds, 88 reptiles and 22 amphibians. In addition they research threats to native wildlife, the single biggest of which are feral cats. Currently they are completing the largest research project into feral cats and how we can prevent further extinctions by these creatures. Cats are highly adaptable and intelligent predators and on average feral cats consume 5 native animals per day- just criminal. Mornington also provides access to both Dimond and Sir John gorges.We camped near our new like-minded friends we had met at Bachsten and he and Chris went out late in the day to see if they could track down the Gouldian Finch. This is one of the species that AWC are working to research and understand more about the habitat and what attracts them to this region and how they can be further protected. Our next few days were spent rising early and looking for finches, then exploring the gorges and swimming at the closest waterhole (Cadjeput), then Chris and Mark would go out late in the day in search of the elusive Gouldian whilst we read and did other activities. My favourite finch is the Crimson Finch- a gorgeous fiery red with small white markings- just stunning and which were quite numerous here.They also have a library full of wildlife, frog and bird books so Merlin was in his element! Most mornings and late afternoons he would head off on his bike down to the library and sit there for hours reading and drawing. At nighttime Merlin would head out to near the showers in search of frogs. He had the best time ever, finding some amazing species, especially the beautiful Green Tree Frog. Chris and Mark headed off looking for geckos and skinks. Finally our last day arrived as we had to get to Broôme to get the campo fixed up. It was going to be a long drive and one taken very carefully! Will fill you in soon on the next adventures from Broôme onwards. Hope everyone at home is well and that the weather is warming up. Take care xx

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