To the centre....

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We headed north past Birdsville so that the drive the next day wouldnt be as long. Let me just say that if for some reason we were stranded and had to stay the night in Birdsville at this particular time of year (The Birdsville Races were on the weekend- argh!!!!)-it would be Chris' worst nightmare. There were literally thousands of campers/caravans dotted all over, in the caravan park and just outside of town in any spare patch of ground- wall to wall people!! Anyway, lucky for us, about 80km north we happened across the most amazing spot- a little creekbed ( that had a small amount of water in it), nestled by some open woodland well off the road. In we went and set it up- it was lovely and the bonus to come once, Chris had done his exploring, was that there was a small natural hot spring!! It was so luxurious to have a wash ( a warm one at that) before dinner. The night was still, so quiet with just the moonlight illuminating our surrounds.

Next morning (Mon 9th) we had a fantastic morning. Merlin was playing in the dunes, Chris had so many birds to photograph and I got some reading done. Aftera few hours we packed up and got on our way. We stocked up again on fuel in Bedourie and then headed out. Ethabuka is a 215,000 Ha Bush Heritage (BH) Reserve at the top of the Simpson Desert. It was previously run as a cattle station which, BH acquired in 2004 and are now managing for conservation. This reserve is home to numerous wildlife and a multitude of different landscapes- dunes, open low shrubland, claypans, gibber plains etc.. Normally the drive in should take about 2 hrs however we are far from 'the norm' and so it took us more like 4 - there was just sooo much to see!! We came across the Central bearded dragon (Pogona viticeps) again just on the edge of the track. We pulled over and did a quick 'uie'. Merlin and Chris jumped out to see if they could get closer to it. Next minute Merlin (the reptile whisperer) was alongside it and swiftly but gently crouched down and cradled the dragon in his hands. He was so placid as if he instinctively knew we were no danger. After a few cuddles and pics we put him back where he was found (but in a safe location). The next exciting instalment on our journey was when we saw a Gibberbird. Again rounding the car to get a closer look we startled an Inland Dotterel chick running for its life!! It stopped just up the way in the road so we cautiously came up to it. Picture a brown and white fluffy golfball with two sticks for legs, and this is a chick- oh so very cute. This time it was Chris to perform the careful craddling. We had a few cuddles and then safely relocated it to off the track and then watched to ensure mum reunited and got her out of harms way...and off they went- a rare experience indeed. We arrived at the campground and after a quick chat with the reserve managers Kyle and Helene, began setting up and organisng dinner.

The following three days were spent enjoying the reserve and having many magical wildlife experiences- seeing flocks of thousands of budgies wheeling and darting, banking side to side showing their brilliant greens and golds, hearing the distinctive 'purr' of their wingbeats and feeling the air move around you as they 'showoff' their aerial ability in such a playful way; a pair of resident Hobbies (small, swift and very clever falcons ) hunting for food and diving into a stoop and then hurtling along only a metre or so above our heads as though willing us to take off and join in on the fun; being able to stand directly underneath a Spotted Harrier majestically hovering, allowing us spectacular views of her delicate and detailed markings; the speed, dexterity and general hardiness of the Central Netted and Military dragons chasing insects and avoiding the predators of the sky; seeing seven little runners (Emu chicks) with their Dad ambling along and then (in fear of a hulking pewter beast bearing down the track-the Landy) they scatter, but not knowing which way is safe so instead just rejoin the herd and head down the track we are travelling trying to outrun us!!; the beauty and elegance of the Brolgas and a very special time with the stunning Red backed kingfisher as it made its regualur journies from its perch to its nesting hollow. We also had a fabulous dinner with Kyle and Helene, and it was so great to hear their stories, and get to know them and the area better- they are such terrific people.

Fri (13th) morming came and unfortunately it was time to pack and up and go. It was wonderful at Ethabuka - the managers, the wildlife, the red desert sands and just the expanse of the area. We were sad to leave but hope to be back someday. We had one last walk, said goodbye to our kingfishers, budgies and the dragons and then headed out. We had a big drive ahead of us. We headed north towards Boulia and lucky for us the road was mainly bitumen and without much oncoming traffic so it was a bit quicker than planned. After Boulia we headed west on the Donohue hwy. We had the most amazing experience along the way. As often found on remote stretches of road, we happened upon a group of Wedgies (Wedge tailed eagles) feeding on some roadkill. Normally as a car approaches (no matter how slow or cryptic the approach) - the wedgies abandon their feast for safety and fly away. This is extremely frustrating for anyone trying to capture this moment (just ask Chris as he has tried this millions of times but with no luck!!). On this occasion we were most fortunate. Although many of the wedgies took flight, one lone bird remained to continue the feast allowing us the privilege of capturing this amazing moment. Perhaps he was too hungry to care about us, or opportunistic as he now had no competition for the food! Whatever the reason, we were all so grateful for the close encounter with this commanding creature. Buoyed by our experience, we kept driving for some time. Although the road is a 'hwy' it is dirt with many sections being quite rocky and therefore really slow going. It was really late in the day with too little sunlight for driving so luckily we found a brilliant little spot tucked away well off the road amongst the trees and set up. The moonlight was spectacular and illuminated our whole camp- handy when going for nocturnal walks in search of critters!! We had a little look around and then called it a day as we were exhausted.

Next morning (Sat 14th) we took our time at camp- Merlin and I played some games while Chris went in search of birds. The days were really hotting up now and we were finding that reptiles were becoming a lot more active. We packed up and got going. We were now headed for the NT border and then to somewhere near Jervois (about 350km from Alice). It was an interesting but long drive - the landscape dry and dusty yet interspersed with patches of amazing wildflowers, spinifex and lush, low line white trunked (ghost) gums- all a result of the floods here in late March. At Tomeroy ( just a few kms from the border) the floods hit them quickly. On 31st they had 6 inches of rain and within half an hour they were inundated and had to be airlifted out. The water continued to rise and peaked at the second storey of the house. It took 2.5 weerks to recede before they could get in to commence the arduous clean up. Apart from such lush patches, no one would be able to tell that there had ever been floods in this region On we travelled and again as it was late in the day and close to our destination, we found a suitable spot for the night - and couldnt believe our luck! It was again tucked away and not far from what we lovingly called 'our rocky knoll'. On a previous trip, when we were travelling across the centre through the great sandy desert, we camped close to what we labelled our special rocky knoll and experienced our one and only desert thunderstorm so it has continued to hold a special place in our hearts. The new 'knoll' would now also hold a special place as it was home to numerous little geckoes as it stored the heat from the day. Apart from this, the location was alive with life- we came across a Centralian blue tongue (a gorgeous relative of what we know as our Eastern (Common) blue tongue but with stunning cream and white markings on its back and a brilliant cerulean tongue!), we saw another bearded dragon and a praying mantis- not to mention the birds. We had the most peaceful and stunning moonlit night - the calm before the 'Alice' storm!

Another fabulous morning was had at camp - Chris went in search of the birds and Merlin and I did a lovely walk to the 'knoll' before we packed up and headed for Alice. We were excited but also filled with trepidation at coming into Alice. We love the town, the people, the art, the desert park and the facilities of the caravan park but knew the rules, noise and confines would be a struggle to adjust too. We plan to have just a few days here stocking up, doing jobs and having a swim before we head on to Ormiston and then north. Hope everyone at home is well and we will send another instalment when we reach the Top End! Stay safe and have fun xx

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