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Published: March 26th 2006
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Well its 11 days since last I blogged and we have travelled some miles since then. We left Ceduna on Thursday 16th for the long awaited crossing of the Nullarbor. The road was great and the weather even better for driving - overcast with the occasional sprinkle of rain. Quite a few road trains around but didn't bother John at all really. He had been warned so many times that it was almost an anti-climax. We didn't hit the real desert until about 270k out. Then very flat and scrubby. Passed through Yalata roadhouse on aboriginal land and it is closed. A bit further on pass the turn off to 'Head of Bight' where the whale watching is fantastic in season. This is also closed as the sign says 'no whales'! About here we start on the 'treeless plain', and that sure is what it is. We stopped at Nullarbor Roadhouse at 2.30 for our first night in the desert. First van in the "park" and took a spot as far from the road as we could because we'd been told that the traffic can be very noisy. What a couple of dorks we looked. The noise was a lot worse
Ocean views from the Nullarbor
Imagine what it would be like watching whales from here! from the generator and everyone else parked close to the entry and all together. Surprisingly we did have excellent TV reception and spent the afternoon (on our own) watching the C'wealth Games. After cold showers (and it was cold outside to boot) we were the last to leave the next morning (Didn't want to break our record), at about 9.30. The road from here was quite close to the coast so we stoped several times to take in the spectacular view. Will put a photo in. Had to stop at the border to hand over fruit and veg - again - but were well warned this time and only had a couple of things to hand over. 12 ks further on was Eucla roadhouse where we stopped for morning coffee. This place is a fantastic oasis. The owners are obviously very proud of their roadhouse and have put in a pool, garden and keep the place absolutely spotless. Great food as well, even though at "Sydney" prices. At least they have an excuse!! We took the detour to the old telegraph station which is below the Eucla RH on the plain right near the sea. It has been just about
Old Telegraph Station - Eucla
The sea is just beyond that big tree. The sand flies could have carried us there. taken over by sand and sand flies as well. We felt a bit like Peter O'Toole, but it was very beautiful. You just don't expect such beauty in the desert!! And so close to the sea.
We push on to Caiguna but it is so grotty we decide to travel along the 120 odd kilometre straight, to Balladonia. We gained about 2.5 hours that day and therefore figured we had enough daylight so John was happy to go on. Balladonia was just another road house but very busy because there was a huge road crew base here. Spent the night comfortably here and left at about 8.30 which is a miracle for us. Not the last to leave because one guy who tried to leave at 4.30 got a flat battery so we left him behind in our dust!!! Once agian, great driving weather and the road apart from the road works was great. Stopped at Fraser Station 83 ks from Balladonia and along with Eucla would be where I would stay next time. The rest of the day was pretty uneventful as we left the Nullarbor. Impressions include it was much more scenic than we could have imagined,
Cape Le Grand NP
That's me on the beach. The colour of the water doesn't do it justice. lots of vegetation and green at that, coastal cliffs spectacular and one live kangaroo the only living animal we saw.
We arrived in Norseman about 12 for the worst lunch we have had so far - don't mention it to John - he is still shitty! Went on to Esperance arriving about 3.30 and what a gorgeous place. We had some rest days here, watching the Games, going for drives and swimming in some of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. The colour of the water was amazing and as clear as glass. Went for a drive to Cape Le Grande National Park and had a swim and lunch on a stunning beach on our own. There were also camp sites here which we would have used if we were staying longer. Can't really describe how beautiful it was suffice to say we would recommend this area to all!!
From Esperance we went on to Albany. Now this is just gorgeous. Lots of history, buildings not unlike the Rocks in Sydney and when we arrived looked forward to days in the sun on the beach at our doorstep - again!! Not to be. It bucketed down
Valley of the Giants
John on the Tree Top Walk the first night and all the next day. Went to the movies (Walk the Line) - first time since John left work last July and spent the two days here trying to stay dry. Had our first dinner out at the pub on the beach which was great, but once again "Sydney prices" for bistro meals and this time no excuse! I hope all you "Sydneyites" appreciate how good life is there because we reckon you can't beat the fish markets at Pyrmont for value, quality and choice and our restaurants can't be beaten for value for money. Left here on Friday for Walpole via Denmark (another lovely small place) but didn't see Princess Mary. Had the tiara ready too!!!
Am writing this on Sunday night in Walpole. This caravan park is also on a beach but this time on an inlet. It is a bush park and just gorgeous. Each site is in between trees and quite private and you feel like you are camping in the bush. The first place we have been to where we haven't been able to keep an eye on the neighbours. Did the 'Tree Top Walk' yesterday. This is a walk literally
Valley of the Giants 2
John again at the base of a giant red Tingle tree through the tops of the Tingle trees on a man made walk way that reaches 40 metres above ground at its hightest point. It also sways in the breeze to give you the feeling that you are walking on a branch. These Red Tingle trees are a type of eucalypt and only found in WA in this small area - just stunning. The weather was still dodgy and had the singlets and jackets on and needed both. Had a walk around Walpole and found that mass would be on at 5pm (only every second Saturday night - no Sundays)and with about 10 others and an older Irish priest celebrated a lovely, lovely mass. We were lucky to be here on the right Saturday. Wonderful!!!
Today walked for about 3 hours along Coalmine Beach, around the local area and through the National Park. Amongst more Tingle trees and Marri and Karri trees we spotted a 'Snotty Gobble' (Persoonia Longifolia) tree that I am telling you about just because it's the best name for a tree that I have ever heard. We also discovered that a Marri tree is a eucalypt/bloodwood that can grow to 60 metres and has large woody fruits known as 'honky nuts'. My mate, "Honky Tonk" in Adelaide, will really appreciate this useless bit of information and the rest of you can remember it for the next trivia night you go to.
So that is it up till tonight, Sun 26th March. Heading off to Bussleton tomorrow and will be in Perth by Thursday night. Michael and Leigh arrive Friday and we are off to the Super 14 match between the Perth Force and the Capetown Stormers that night. On Saturday, Kate, Brett, Jack and Hannah arrive and we will have a few more days in Perth and then back to Busselton for a family holiday. Will be in touch again after that. Love to all and keep the emails coming. Nearly forgot - please don't send any jokes/photos etc on to me. Bigpond is going really well but because we don't sign on each day we end up with an awful lot of time consuming/slow stuff that I have to just delete. Also to Kerry Hollywood - deglazing is when you put liguid in the frypan to scrape the pan drippings for gravy or sauce and yes, the hair is growing back and it is the most wonderful/incredible colour of pale, pale, pale, nondescript grey that I have ever seen!!! Just gorgeous....
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Rimmont
JR
Esperance & Walpole
I am interested in what caravan park you stayed at in both of these towns. Very interested in your blog as we will be travelling a similar way.