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Published: August 4th 2013
We drove 3000kms, most with this sort of scenery. No towns or buildings anywhere in sight.We left home at about 0730.
Refuelled at Paynes Find, swapped drivers to Rags. Still can't work out size of fuel tank, seems larger than 90 litre but the fuel consumption was not good due to towing a trailer and a fair speed!
We had a lunch stop at Mt Magnet before continuing on to Kumarina, discussed on way and decided not to stay there - expensive and Trip Advisor said it was terrible. Stopped there for tea though and both had fish, chips and salad. Rags had his grilled and he had a huge, thick fillet of one of the best pieces of fish he has had for ages. Would go back for another.
We continued in the dark for about another 50 kms and camped at a truck bay. Cal slept on a camp stretcher; Rags in his new swag. Beautiful clear night, full moon, and as he was suffering from a cold Rags hit the sack at about 2030 and asleep by 2100. He slept in thermals and was as warm as toast. Cal, on the other hand, was very cold, and put his head under the cover as his face and head were so
cold.
The highlight was the story Cal told the next morning - he was too cold to get out of bed for ablutions, so he just unzipped sleeping bag and peed whilst lying on side.
Monday 22/7
Cal woke Rags from a deep slumber before 0600 and by 0630 we were on our way. We found where Mariette and Christophe live in Newman, and arrived there at about 0830. Mariette was at work but Christophe welcomed us, and made us coffee, eggs and croissants. We repacked the Troopie, beds now on top. Went to Mariette's work to say hello. They were both very pleased to have trailer. Christophe reckons he will find work, they have another house sitting for a month. Although we said we didn't want anything they emptied their pockets and gave us $120 to cover extra fuel.
Refuelled and off to Port Hedland. Stopped at some interesting rocks on the way and had lunch.
Fuel consumption a little better with no trailer but still not too good. We do have the six fuel containers on roof and we are setting a brisk yet safe pace.
More fuel at Hedland and then continued. Not the
place we want to stay. There was water in the De Grey River so we stopped for a few photos, Rags telling the story of Judy and his adventure there in the past.
Rags convinced Cal to stop at Pardoo which we reached by 1630,giving us time to set up camp and Rags cook our first meal, Hi Ti Min. Went down well. Cal left a few parts of his swag home but a little bit of invention and he was set.
Not as cold here as last night so we sat around and did our diary.
Tuesday 23/7
We were up and off by 0700; Cal is an early riser and had a good sleep last night in his bedroll.
The day was nothing special, just long hours behind the wheel.
We drove until we reached Willare, where we stopped for lunch and found that the 90 litre tank took 135 liters when quarter full. This will help a lot on the "track".
Continued to Fitzroy where we booked into Fitzroy River Lodge, this is where Judy and I stopped last time with our caravan. Set up camp here and then
had a huge hamburger, chips and salad dinner at the bar. Lemon, lime and bitters was the drink for the evening.
Rang Judy and told her all well and that should be at beginning of Canning Stock Route tomorrow evening.
Had a long, hot shower, may be the last one for a while!
Weds 24/7
Even earlier start this morning, Cal doesn't sleep in. He drove to Halls Creek, there just after 1000. Here we refuelled and reported in to the local police. Told they didn't do this anymore, relatives expected to report if people don't arrive at expected time.
I did the first bit of gravel road, we stopping very soon to drop the tire pressures as the ride was too rough. We tried 28/33 and this helped smooth the ride. May go lower when the sand starts.
The road into Wolfe Creek Crater was heavily corrugated but we kept going, Cal enjoyed seeing it, this a repeat for me.
After lunch there, we talked to some Perth people who were just finishing the track. They gave us a lot of confidence as they found it straight
forward enough and really enjoyed it.
Cal took the wheel and the distances passed quickly,to the point that when it was time to stop we found we had reached the first of the wells, Well 51. This is a dry well although the windmill keeps turning , and it was here we spent our first night. After setting up our sleeping accommodation , Cal in tent, me in swag, I then prepared a meal. Not bad for the first on the track, steak, boiled potatoes, roasted pumpkin, fried onions and green peas. All done on 2 burners. This was followed by a hot Bonox for Cal, coffee for me.
Both of us then spent some time doing our diaries until 1900. A bit of reading and another early night which threatens to be cold!
T
hurs 25/7 It was a cold night but my thermals certainly saved the day for me. My cold hasn't got any better and I seem to have spent the night coughing. We were again up before 0600 and had breakfast as the sun was rising. Sounds nice but it was very cold.
Today was marked by several things, the
first being the severe corrugations we had to drive on. No matter what speed you went you couldn't get a smooth ride.
Our first stop was at Breadon Pool, about 5 kms off the track. Here there were two lots of campers and they were very friendly and showed a lot of interest in our car. This was ok, except they also directed us to some pools in the range about 20 minutes walk away. We therefore locked the car securely before leaving and from a nearby hill watched them leave. Our suspicious minds at rest, we continued to the pools, which were interesting in such a dry area.
On returning to the car, Cal found he had locked the keys in. We spent the best part of two hours trying to open a door, eventually having to break a side window to get in. A subdued lunch followed before we left with me driving at a comfortable speed.
The road was atrocious but just before we reached our destination for the night, Well 46, the sand dunes got larger even though the track was smoother.
The Cruiser took them with ease, usually in
Billiluna Community - fuel stop for start of track.third gear, sometimes second. Only once did we have to take a run up, and this was simple.
Several groups were camped at Well 46, they had been there for a couple of nights. They were headed south also, but had three weeks or so to do it. They said that no-one had passed heading north since they were there and we were the only others they had seen.
Kunawaritti, the community we hope to get fuel at is closed on Sat afternoon and all Sun , so we may have to camp there for a night.
Dinner was Jamaican stew, which only needed heating up as I was too tired to cook a full meal. Alas, when I went to lift out the heated stew the bottom of the bag gave way and all went into the water. I scooped out what I could but we both enjoyed a more watery meal.
Friday 26/7 Another cold 0600 rise and by 0700 we were on our way, once again.
The day was quite uneventful, Cal set a nice steady pace as first driver, most of the time we were traveling at about
30 kph and often slower. The corrugations varied between large and mountainous, which made it most uncomfortable and difficult to find a speed where the car drove comfortably
Lunch was at one of the wells which was abandoned and dry. We had bread with tinned beef as filling. Cal reckoned it was the best we'd had yet! Snacks of dried fruit and lots of water is the diet whilst driving.
There was some radio contact with vehicles traveling in the same direction as us but we eventually lost contact. These were the people camped near us last night and they were in no hurry. During the day we did contact a group of 11 vehicles traveling north, keeping in touch until our paths crossed. The radio is used constantly to ensure there are no head on collisions as the crests are crossed. A bit scary as you can't see what is in front of you until the bonnet of the car drops.
We met over 20 vehicles going north today, stopping each time to have a chat and tell each other how good it was and how bad the road was ahead! Very little wildlife to be
seen, only a solitary camel today.
We missed the turnoff to Well 41, our destination for the day, but realized it about 8 kms in. We retraced our path and found only 1 camper by the well.
After setting up camp we both drew buckets of water from the well and had badly needed baths in the nearby bush.
I had another dose of my favorite "drug" (Cal's words) a coffee, before preparing dinner. Beef Burgundy with mashed potato and peas is on the menu, followed by a couple of oranges. Not bad for out here.
Our evening has been to the accompaniment of some great 60's music thanks to the other camper here. Great songs! He is by himself and came over for a chat and to show off the damper he had just cooked. I'll be doing the same later in the trip, at this stage we still have fresh bread for lunch.
The howl of a dingo followed by several others surrounding us ensured we put all foodstuffs and rubbish away. Don't expect them to worry us though.
Saturday 27/7
Got up to another very cold morning with
ice on my swag and all the cooking gear etc left out was covered in ice.
We left a bit later than usual but still managed to be well under way by 0715. I drove for the first 3 hours with the road varying between rough, sandy or full of rocks. The sand hills run parallel from east to west with a steep rise on the north face and sloping away on the south side. This made for a steep climb with the Troopie usually managing second gear, high ratio with only a couple of hills needing first gear. Instead of the track just going in a straight line over the hills it wove it's way back and forth, appearing to double back with the dune between the way you came. Relief came for about 10 kms at Tobin's Lake, the track here was like a proper, smooth highway.
Cal took over after the morning break and drove until we reached Well 36, where we intend stopping for the night. We did see quite a few bustards or bush turkeys as well as a dingo, the latter watching us as we drove past.
We had radio contact
with a group leaving Well 46 about 50kms out and were able to stay in touch and pass safely in the dune area.
It was only a bit after 1400 when we reached the well but after having a late lunch we decided to not continue on to the Kunawarraitji Aboriginal Settlement about 60 kms further down the track. We have been warned of the very bad road in and out of the community and it would have been late when we got there.
A group from Victoria arrived just after 1500, they stopped for a chat before leaving, and headed north. They confirmed the road condition, but also gave us some hope that we may get served fuel tomorrow as the people there seemed accommodating. We'll see tomorrow.
I mentioned the sat- phone to Cal and he said we would use it tomorrow when we reached the community. If not, there should be a public phone so I can contact Judy. I am enjoying this experience but am certainly missing her!
Panang Meatballs and rice on the menu for tonight, followed by a coffee and a Bonox. We are getting into a pattern now.
We had a surprise visitor! A young dingo came up to us and wasn't more than a couple of metres from me. It took a few hisses and shoos before it left. Once again we have to ensure no food is left out.
Cal was in bed before 1900 so that he could remain warm whilst reading. I have found that the jacket I bought in China, which is too warm for home, is perfect here, so sat outside for a while typing this and then reading. Won't be a late night though.
Sunday 28/7 Wasn't as cold as it was yesterday morning and after the usual breakfast of muesli ( Cal likes the muesli I make) we packed up and set off at 0715. I drove the first shift with the track sandy and smooth.
Two hours later we swapped drivers and Cal hit the corrugations which were to dog us today. 50 kms into Kunawarraitji was all like this and we travelled at speeds between 15 and 30 kph. Most frustrating.
We only met one other vehicle on the track today, this one just starting from a camp area along the
way. We had been radioing our position frequently and had no response. Luckily, he saw us and stopped by the side to let us through. We asked if he had heard us but he sheepishly told us he hadn't turned his two way radio on yet. We did hear him a couple of times after that as he headed north.
Pleasant surprise at Kunawarraitji, the manager opened the bowser to fuel us and had his wife opened the store so that Cal could buy a few things. He put $50 into the Royal Flying Doctor Service tin and they were so pleased they waived the $5 cost of having a hot shower.
Whilst Cal had his shower, I used the public phone there to ring Judy. It was so good to hear her voice, even if she did sound full of flu. As I had bought a phone card I had 45 mins to speak if I wished. Best purchase I have made in ages! I realized how much I miss her and yesterday was ready to pull out. After talking to her I calmed down, and even though the next section is a long one,
will be able to manage. There is no way I'll leave her behind in the future, either we both go or I won't !
The break at Kunawarraitji and the hot shower refreshed us both and although the rooms there were very nice for out here, with tv, microwave and stove, we didn't really want to stay there for the afternoon. We continued on, Cal again driving on corrugations for another 20 kms or so. I then took over and the road became a rocky track. It took nearly 3 hours to drive the last 25 kms into Well 30 as we didn't want to risk wrecking a tyre on the rocks.
The CSR is definitely a trip which tests your stamina and endurance. The scenery is interesting in spots with the spinifex on the plains, the acacia, occasional stands of Desert Oaks and the red soil wherever you look. After many hours of this however it does become monotonous and it becomes a challenge to maintain your enthusiasm.
A dinner of spaghetti bolognaise filled us up and once again the temperature dropped as soon as the sun set. Cal was in his tent before 1900, and
I wasn't be far behind in my swag. Reading from our iPads has been the staple entertainment after dinner, we have exhausted our conversations during the day.
Monday 29/7 It was a cool but pleasant morning and a tasty and warm breakfast of porridge sent us on our way.
Cal drove for the first 3 hours after which we stopped for break and some dried fruit. The dried apples have gone down well, unfortunately we had to throw the rest of the fresh ones out as they had become bruised from the bumps and gone bad. Cal had a big bag of almonds and these were fresh and tasty, a pleasant alternative.
Wells 29 - 26 were abandoned and we continued past them. We did stop at Thring Rock, a pile of rocks sticking out of the desert where we met the only other vehicle for the day, a couple heading home to Darwin.
Well 28 was our lunch stop, lunch being sardine sandwiches. The bread we have still seems fresh enough to eat, surprising since we bought it in Newman!
By 1400 we reached Well 26, which is the
half way mark. Today we traveled 127 kms. We decided to stay there as the next wells are some way down the track. I took the opportunity to wash my clothes and to have a clean up. I should now be right for underwear etc until I get home.
Had the first use of the camp oven this afternoon, a damper being made and cooked. Used the chimney I made to light the beads, which worked really well. It took longer to cook than I expected, so will use more beads next time.
A group of 3 vehicles came in from the south, Cal managed to have his bath just before they arrived! Be good to travel with a group, bit of company and the security of numbers, although we are going ok.
Corny Chilli for dinner which was very tasty and certainly filled us up. The damper was a disappointment in that it didn't cook right through. Will have to use more beads on the next one.
Wandered over for a chat with the other campers, they were enjoying themselves and taking their time. They were quite happy only to travel from 1000 to 1500
and then look for a camp spot. That's the way I'd like to learn how to travel sometimes.
Tuesday 30/7 We drove 158 kms today and I can feel every bump we went over in some part of my body. The day was just a travel day, we stopping for the evening at Lake Disappointment which is a huge salt lake. This lake goes for over a 100 kms and we follow it most of the way.
We were on the road soon after 0700 with Cal driving for the morning. He seemed happy to do it so I didn't say anything, just waited for him to hand over the wheel.
Several picturesque lakes were passed, set between the dunes. It was so beautiful with the morning light that we stopped for photos.
We met several groups heading north, the first couple being in radio contact beforehand. Luckily, we met the other two single vehicles on open stretches. In both cases they were tourists, driving too fast over the corrugations, and they didn't have radios. We chatted to them warning of the dangers of both their speed
Sunday, and they opened up just for us! Fuel and a needed hot shower.and the fact that the dunes ahead of them were higher, steeper and risky if they didn't know if a car was coming from the other side. The hire companies probably don't know they are on the Track, and if they do, they should ensure they have permits which specify radios.
One couple we met did tell us that they had arranged a drum of fuel at the Capricorn fuel dump at a cost of $600 for 200 litres and found they didn't need about a third of it as consumption was better than they thought. There is no way they can get a refund and they had to leave it. A bit of a bonus for us though.
About 40 kms before our stop at the lake, we met two chaps riding bicycles going north! The bikes were specially made with big balloon tyres, and internal 14 speed gears. They had been averaging about 70 kms/day and seemed to be enjoying themselves. One guy, said he worked at Princess Margaret Hospital in Perth and rode there from Fremantle each day. They were being picked up at Billiluna by his wife. We gave them a dozen oranges, for
Well 26, half way and time to do the washing.which they were very grateful
There was a group of eight vehicles at the campsite and the one we stopped next to didn't appear very friendly so we moved down to near the shore of the lake. As they are headed south too, we will ensure we are in front of them tomorrow.
Dinner of fried sausages, mushroom and onion, potato in their jackets and veges, followed by a hot drink. Very satisfying.
I gave Judy a quick call on the sat-phone to reassure her and to give our position. Just being able to do that made me feel closer to her. Don't know how long we'll take to do the last stretch, is going a little too quickly for Cal, but in reality we haven't missed anything and just sitting around out here can be done much more comfortably at home.
Wednesday 31/7 Lovely morning and we were on our way just after 0700. We wanted to be ahead of the other group there from S.A. They reckon they were working on their local time and on the way by 0900.
I drove the first shift alongside
Lake Disappointment and we were intrigued by what seemed like a deep, blue canal running besides the track. Samphire grew in large clumps between, looking very pretty. The track then went across the water with mud on both sides. We continued gamely on, got through ok and then found that the track was barely used. Backtracked, and found where we had to cross, Savoury Creek.
Next moment the radio blasted out and we had one of the South Aussies on our tail. Stayed ahead of him and he then advised that they were stopping for morning tea.
Lots of radio talk as there was another group of 11 coming as well as that group.
We were headed for Diebil Hills, this was 22 kms off the track. When we got there we couldn't find anything after a good walk through a valley, except for a cave which must have been a shelter as the ceiling was blackened by smoke.
We met the other group that were in the area, who were also from eastern states. We had to wait for them to turn before we could get out so we had a lunch of soup, that
I'd prepared that morning and had in the thermos, plus the last of the bread.
Reached Durba Springs by about 1500 and called it a day. This is described as the most attractive area along the CSR and it was lush and green. There were lots of ghost gums up against an escarpment, grassy, and most pleasant. May stay here for a couple of days but unlikely as we change our minds all the time.
Had a much better damper tonight to go with the Jamaican stew.
Thursday 1/8 We stayed here until 0800 and left this lovely spot. Cal has a beaut cold, probably compliments from me, and has suffered 3 or 4 bad nose bleeds. He had his nose cauterised years ago but it seems it needs doing again. He rang Vera, his wife, this morning and has organised for her to make a doctor's appointment for Tuesday, as he has a conference in Sydney the following week.
That meant it was all stops out to head south, so we drove with only short stops for morning tea, where Cal took over the driving for the rest of the
day.
Morning tea was at Rankin's Trolley, where the remains of a trolley made of bike wheels are. This is as far as he got. Some people with a sense of humour had set up a bus stop there, with a portable phone next to it.
The scenery varied between spinifex and areas of low bush, with a couple of salt lakes near the end. The road conditions varied from smooth clay or sand, to corrugated, to rock. In all a difficult drive of 190 kms which took about 7.5 hours.
Met one vehicle very early in the trip and then no-one until about 5 kms from our destination at Well 10. We did see some campers about 10 kms before that, otherwise we have it all to ourselves!
We stopped at 1600 at Well 10 and set up camp nearby. Beef Burgundy, mashed potato with peas were on the menu tonight, with a hot drink after.
An early night was had as we are both tired. Only 180 kms to go for the end of the track but this should take 2 days.
Rang Judy on satphone and told her all
well. She already knew we were headed for home as Vera had contacted her.
Friday 2/8 As we went to sleep at about 2000 we were Both up and about, Cal particularly as he was coughing a lot all night.
I again drove first and as the track was fairly good, I covered about 100kms by the time I stopped at 1130. Not the greatest distance in 4.5 hours but good for on the track.
Cal took over after lunch and drove until just before 1600. In total we covered 210 kms for the day.
We only met one party today, not far from where we stopped for the night, Well 3. This was the only one we came across today with water in it. Many mentions have been made of Windich Springs, some saying it was one of the best. It was quite something for out here, like a river for about 1 km. It is about 2m deep and about 4m wide. It had much reed growing in it. Unfortunately, the area was fenced off, camping only allowed about 100m away in an open area.
Well 3 was similar but
as we were still over 100kms from Wiluna, which could take anything from 3 to 4 hours, we decided to camp for the night. I was hoping we'd get there tonight, now that I'm headed for home I like to keep going.
Would have been silly thing to try, we were both very tired and Cal continues to have trouble with his bleeding nose and persistent cough.
Instead, I had a wash near the well, clean socks, undies and shirt, making me feel like a new person, and ready to cook dinner.
Dinner was a hit, tuna with boiled potato and peas, all mixed with a tin of chicken soup and the last of our cheese melted in it. The obligatory coffee for me was drunk after the washing up, followed by some packing. Cal went to his tent as the cold air was affecting his cough.
I stayed up outside to type this up but will soon be getting into my swag as the cold air rolls in.
Saturday 3/8 This will be our last day on the "track', we've done it a bit more quickly than anticipated but we don't
feel we've missed too much.
Cal drove as he wanted to finish the 'track', as I was the one to start it. We were keen to get under way on on the road by 0600. The going was very slow as the track wound its way through dried up creek beds, over rocky ridges, with some long sections where we could speed up a bit. It still took us nearly 4 hours to get to the end of the track and drive the last 20kms, on wonderfully smooth gravel, into Wiluna. We made it!
After fuel, and raising the tyre pressures back to highway ones at the Wiluna Store, a brisk pace was set for home at 1030. Our early objective was to reach Wubin where Cal had seen motel units to stay at but with Rags driving we reached Mt Magnet in 4 hours and Cal took over with the intention of getting home late in the evening. With minimal stops, and a very brisk pace, we arrived home at 1930 hours, much to the surprise of both our wives.
And so ended a memorable journey I am glad I experienced, but I doubt I would ever repeat it! I will remember the corrugated track, the 600 or so sand hills we crossed, the silence of the evenings, and the indescribable beauty of the stars in the clear, dry sky.
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Jan
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Kunawarritji
Hey Ragsie - loved reading this! Our outback is such a beautiful place and the wide open space is just glorious. And you do have to "walk country" to "know country" so you are making the "personal connections" with our land that too few Australians make. If they knew it better they would care for it better! At some of our remote schools we sleep on verandahs and the "advice" is to get a male person to pee all the way around your sleeping bag because it will keep the camp dogs away for the night. Not that they will bite, but you end up with them all snuggling in around you and they are generaly not flea free! So Cal actually did the right thing from his sleeping bag to keep the wildlife at bay! The "I.T. Guy" and I visited the school at Kunawarritji (Well 33) just a couple of months ago, 700+ km in and back from Pt Hedland...but loved the drive... and it wasn't as tough as yours for most of the way. We were commissioning satellite dishes for NBN connection and doing iPad training with kids and teachers - so even though they are extremey remote they have all the techy stuff. Congratulations. A great journey to do. Thanks for sharing.