Cliffwalks and Convicts

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The downside of a panoramic view is the sunrise hits you early. Doesn’t seem to bother Deaks! A quick continental breakfast at Lufra (is it complimentary? Not sure) and we are off to Port Arthur.

Every drive down down here is a short drive, by Queensland standards, we are there in 20 minutes. And every drive on Tasman Peninsula is scenic. Always surrounded by water, beach, farm or forest.I must confess I didn’t know off Port Arthur before the mass shooting in 1996. And while the tragedy of the shooting hangs over the place, the historic purpose of the place is equally tragic and harsh.The old buildings - particularly the penitentiary and church - are beautiful. The stories of the prisoners, guards and commandants remind you of the grim and inhumane purpose of the place.Anyone living in this remote southern extremity of the world in the 1800’s would have had an extremely tough and stressful life. We were there on a sunny January day in 2023 for a couple of hours. Can't even pretend to imagine the many harsh and hungry winters of the 1830s.The museum is full of interesting facts and stories of individuals from Port Arthur’s dark past. The boat ride around Point Puer and Isle of the Dead on a day like today was a visual treat and another chance to marvel at the dramatic geography of this part of the world. Looking south - next stop, Antarctica!

Strolling through the various structures provided a sneak peak into colonial life. Small dark houses, fireplaces or ovens in every room and pickled and salted everything in the pantry. But that was only if you were rich and powerful.The old post office has a haunted past and is a spooky place. Even the public toilet in the old shed of the property is spooky. No working light in the toilet (no light bulb) and Deaks fears he may have got a ghost up the butt. 😂

After hot chips and a drink in the serene sunshine looking between the penitentiary ruins and the port, we browse the gift shop and hit the road.Jules has been nursing a headache and we stop at a rare roadside convenience store/post office/fuel station. Caught in a perfect storm of necessity, remoteness and a tourist trap, she pays $9 for a $3 packet of Panadol.

The dirt car park buzzes with hire cars battling for advantage, motorbikes gathering for a coastal joyride and tourists in bright red jackets are being corralled for their bus to a powerboat trip out and up to Eaglehawke Neck. Would be an awesome boat ride on a day like today, even without the whales swimming by.A quick stroll and shop through bustling Port Arthur Lavender. You can buy and consume Lavender everything, overlooking a lake/inlet home to black swans. Less than a minute south of Port Arthur and we’re the only car on the road to Nubeena.

The Remarkable Cave lives up to its name and the surrounding ocean cliffs and beaches are truly breathtaking under a bright blue sky. The “best beach” Deaks has ever seen almost tempts us to risk our lives to get down the cliff face to it. But, sanity prevails. We drive a little further to White Beach where we change into our togs on the shoulder of the “highway”. The curved white sand beach of clear green water is deserted. While exposed to a strong easterly breeze, we have to have a swim. We carried our togs all this way and how many pristine beaches can you observe before sampling one? Milla is first in and last out. She then goes for a second swim while we dry in the windy sunshine. So glad we made the effort for a memorable family swim. While our windy corner of the cove is deserted, the northern corner has dozens of families swimming out from their beached 4WDs - out of the wind in the calm corner of the cove makes sense in hindsight!

We inspect a skate bowl in Nubeena and hit up the one of two IGAs on the whole peninsula/island for snacks, fruit and breakfast supplies.

Port Arthur is clearly the magnet that draws tourists to Tasman Peninsula but in my view it’s the dramatic and stunning natural world that is the true star. It is spectacular!

We sample the Doolicious seafood at the blowy blowhole car park for dinner and follow it with a beach walk around Pirate Bay. Out of the breeze, the small waves roll smoothly to shore. Beyond the shore and sand are yellow orange cliffs lined with centuries old gum trees. This is a special place.

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