Tasmania - Part 1 (of 2)

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This is another of 'our' travel experiences - this time to Tasmania in 2013.

The collective ‘episodes’ describe our journey from our arrival in Hobart, Tasmania (during the 3rd week of October) and our journey to 'relax' away from the stresses of preparing to build (another) home. We'd thought that we could contain our journey into one 'episode', but as we noted after several days of enjoyment we have to break the epistle after a week of travel. Hence, this segment is the first of two. This 'segment' covers our travel from arrival in Hobart (and our 2 nights there), our journey to Bruny Island for a few days, on to Geeveston further south on the Tasmanian coast, before heading back north.

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As background, we'd spent the past year finalising a lot of aspects about our lives (family changes, house changes) and preparing plans to build a new house. Over the recent few months, the local Council had been supposedly helping us, but ended up wasting much of our time. We placed our plans in for review and at a meeting with the applicable Tweed Council (plan review) officer, we were told the 'decision' would take considerably longer than that required in the legislation. In frustration, we decided to go away to stop ourselves working and re-working the build process.

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We'd initially thought Europe, but Judy said 'New Zealand or Tasmania'. With all options requiring cold weather clothes, we selected Tasmania as Bruce had not been there before. And, so we set out for a 2 week journey - perhaps our last before moving into our new home.

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We've attached a few pics that give you a flavour of our journey, and some 'flow over' past the dialogue.



As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

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Saturday - arrival Hobart.

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For the week prior to departing, we watched the weather reports for Hobart so to know what to pack. Temps between 12 & 16 with scattered showers. Oh, well, it IS a holiday!!

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We'd pre-booked a couple of nights at a B&B in Sandy Bay, and on arrival on the Saturday mid-afternoon picked up our hire car and headed there. Once disgorged of bags, we went wandering. We were quite surprised at the mid 20's temp with a warm breeze. In fact it was warmer than the Gold Coast!!! We'd not packed for this and had thoughts to go buy some summery clothes on Monday. With nthe nhigher temps, it was quickly time for a beer - not a bad way to start a holiday!

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Sunday - Hobart.

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At Sunday breakfast, locals suggested the clear blue sky would not last and a visit to Mt Wellington would offer a clear view. The view was, in fact, quite clear. But, we were quite unprepared for the coolth. After a good shufty, we headed back to Hobart town - specifically the Salamanca Bay area. This is a popular tourist location, fronting Sullivan's Cove, is notable for a great Saturday market and the site where Sydney-Hobart yachts moor. Being Sunday, we weren't hassled by marketeers (though, secretly, we'd have liked to have been there yesterday). After parking the car in the free area in Battery Point (up the hill from Salamanca), we wandered down the road only to be halted by a homely looking cafe in an quite old building. After an amazing 'sweet' and coffee's, we headed off. We later learnt the cafe - Jackman & McRoss - is widely appreciated. After a good wander in the warm sun (appreciated as the previous day's warm temp had evaporated), we headed back to our digs so Judy could get more comfortable shoes.

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We then drove to Newtown a few km's to the north to visit Runnymede, a 1840 residence held by the National Trust. After an amazing one-on-one tour of Runnymede with the guide, we headed back to Salamanca. While the building was the locus, the grounds with blooming temperate climate plants revived memories. The Rhododendons, Lilacs, Cherry, Jonquils etc., reminded us of the years spent in Melbourne.

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We'd seen a pub in Salamanca that professed to have the widest range of artisan (craft) beers on tap in Hobart. We've never seen an Australian pub with 5 different dark beers, 7 golden's, oodles of pales, and more. It was taking time to sample so many (with a 10oz glass), so we stayed for dinner; beef cheeks braised in Willie Warmer (a dark beer between a Porter & Stout) and Irish Stew in Whiskers Single (Tasmanian single whisky).

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Monday - Hobart (and to Bruny Is).

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Monday opened up a little dismal. After a hearty brekky, we headed to the Penitentiary Chapel (another National Trust site). There we learnt much about early Hobart - both of those incarcerated and the 'free' remainder. Life back then was certainly more challenging than anything we'd 'experience' today. Despite the hearty brekkie, given our previous day's experience of Jackman & McRoss, we headed there for lunch. Again, we were not disappointed. With a few provisions from their adjoining deli, we headed for Bruny Island where we'd pre-booked a couple of nights accommodation. Bruny is close enough to the 'mainland' to be accessed by a ferry (a 15 min ride). Along the drive to our accommodation, we passed both an Oyster supplier and cheese maker. We bought decent 'samples'.

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With a few artisan beers, some wonderful sourdough bread, the Oysters and a washed rind cheese, we were exceedingly comfy. The Oysters were amazing. Each was fresh today, and one would be hard pressed to fit into 2 match boxes (they were huge). We figured we'd be unlikely to find their equal. The cheese was a cider washed rind soft cheese at absolute ripening (lovely and gooey). The taste was really full, and the aroma - well, lets just say it permeated the building we'd rented. We followed that with a Scallop pie from Jackman & McRoss with a bottle of wine. A most enjoyable day.

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Tuesday - Bruny Island.

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The accommodation we'd booked was in the village of Alonnah and, in fact, someone's 1 bed holiday house. The huge upstairs bedroom opened onto a magnificent vista overlooking D'Entrecasteaux Channel and onto the Esperance Coast (of SE Tasmania). Tuesday opened into another sunny morning. We'd both slept like the dead, and upon waking wondered whether it was the food, the quietude, or the fresh air. Whatever, we appreciated being recharged. After brekky, we headed south towards Cape Bruny. There we found a lighthouse (as you'd expect) and a magnificent vista (once we'd climbed the elevated cape). On this sunny day, this barren windswept place was scenically stunning - located as it is on a headland with two dramatic bays on each side. In the (relatively) calm air, the walk to the headland was intoxicating. The windswept low growing shrubby plants were in flower, giving off a delightful scent. After giving our calf muscles a workout, we headed back to the car and onto a nearby sandy bay.

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The sandy bay faced north and in the midday sun was lovely and warm. We wandered along the beach, and then took a trail around the peninsula to several other beaches. Along the way, through the coastal Banksia's and Eucalypt's, we spied some spider orchids (or Caladenia spp.). These reminded Bruce of his childhood - especially his Mother's fascination for the variety of these plants. Every so often we'd stop and let the birds surround us. Though all small, there was a great variety. Eventually, we returned to our car. The weather prediction for the day was for showers, so we felt extremely chuffed at the 'turn of events'. Being both ex-Victorians, we knew that Spring weather forecasts in the southern climes are rarely correct.

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Having devoured the Oysters and cheese on the previous night, we returned north (past Alonnah) to replenish the larder. A dozen large, extra tasty oysters - $12!!! We decided on another washed rind cheese, this time washed in local white wine and matured in grape leaf - equally tasty. We headed back to our digs and after again enjoying the local delicacies, enjoyed more Jackman & McRoss fare. Feeling extremely tired, we headed to bed early.

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Wednesday - Bruny Island.

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After another 'sleep of the dead', we awoke to a cloudy morn. The weather forecast wasn't too auspicious for the day. After brekky, we headed to the east side of (south) Bruny - to Adventure Bay. As laid back and quaint as it is, Adventure Bay (town) is perhaps the 'principle' village of Bruny Island. It certainly is the only one with a magnificent beach, and appears more populated than the others we visited. Beyond the village is a National Park, where the road ends. We'd read the walk is good, so with wet weather gear we headed out along the beach to the park entrance. The walk to Grass Head is (relatively) flat and quite enjoyable. The weather became sunny and the breeze dropped so we were enjoying ourselves. We spent some time exploring Grass Head, once a hive of activity as a whaling station.

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We'd read the walk (further) around to Fluted Head was worth the effort. From the flat Grass Head, the track began to rise, all the while following the coastal esarpment. Sadly (for us), the term 'worth the effort' was a misnomer. Unlike other parts of Australia - where tracks are rated for the relative effort/skill needed - we mumbled that 'worth the effort' must be the Tasmanian term for 'extreme grade'. After only a short while, our calves and thighs were reminding us of our recent sedentary lifestyle, too much good food, or our advancing years. After an hour, we were telling ourselves we'd been fools for not first asking locals of the nature of the track. Eventually we emerged from the Casuarina landscape that covered us while we slogged it uphill alongside the ever increasing cliffs and came to grassy Eucalypt area - having been recently undergone fire. It appeared that this was the top of the cliffs - Fluted Head. Here, we rested and rewarded ourselves with some time on our bums and a drink of cool water. We remarked on the amazing views as we climbed alongside the headland edge. Once on our feet again, we quickly learnt there was more hardship ahead. Eventually we reached the summit (some 160m above sea level), and gladly commenced our way down the headland. At one place, we stopped to observe a most wonderfully coloured red Robin. It's chest was amazingly orange red, not the usual scarlet. As we stood still in awe, a noise to our left revealed an Echidna busily seeking ants in the forest floor.

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We eventually returned to our car, having traversed at least 4 distinct ecosystems - in large part, soil generated. We stopped at the local store and bought a portion of locally smoked Salmon for dinner. Unlike the cured smoked Salmon eaten 'raw', this was lightly smoked and needed cooking. We departed Adventure Bay and headed across the island over the mountain range. Here, huge Eucalypts dominated the forest. As we entered the forested area, rain commenced. We congratulated ourselves that we'd endured a great walk in sunshine despite a weather prediction of rain and snow to 1000m. A short drive had us back in comfort and an enjoyable evening as a weather change rolled in, rain fell outside before another early night to bed.

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Thursday - Bruny Island and back to the mainland.

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During the night, wind emerged and howled around the building. The weather prediction was for gale force winds and snow to 400m. Thursday opened to a fierce gale, with rain pounding on the windows. We'd booked to be elsewhere for the night and given the veracity of the wind and rain, we wondered whether we'd have the opportunity to leave. To our surprise, after a couple of hours, the rain subsided and we were able to leave warm and dry. That said, in a brief moment when the clouds parted, we could see the mountains on the 'mainland' covered in snow. We were glad the cold front rushed in overnight rather than as we were departing. On our way to the ferry, we stopped in at a 'smokehouse' to taste their wares. They had a large log fire ablaze and the warmth was gladly appreciated. As we drove to the ferry terminal we noticed it sailing away. It was 30 mins to the next, so we went to the terminal cafe. Surprisingly for such establishments, the coffee was brilliant and Judy enjoyed a stunning roasted root vegetable pie. Bruce was happy with just a freshly shucked Oyster.

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Being first in the queue meant the car was up front on the ferry. The crossing was OK, but the car was frequently doused with salt water from the (now) large waves as they smashed into the front of the ferry. Once on the other side - or mainland - we headed south. We'd pondered whether to go north (where the weather forecast was marginally better) or continue southwards to the less inhabited areas of Tasmania. We decided that the weather forecasts were less then perfect, so we'd remain as earlier intended. By now, the sky was quite blue, but nearby large cloud banks periodically scooted through with decent showers. For most of the time, though, we enjoyed sunshine - which made the journey more pleasant.

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The road south from the ferry terminal at Kettering proceeds to a junction - right takes one directly to Huonville , while straight ahead follows the coast via quaint little villages with names like Flowerpot, Birches Bay, Middleton, Verona Sands, etc. For us, this road ranks alongside the (Victorian) Great Ocean Road as a magnificent coastal drive. We stopped at Cygnet for a Scallop pie lunch - another quaint village - before heading down to Geeveston (via Huonville). Geeveston is a timber town, and has been made over in recent years to attract tourism. Perhaps because it is only some 90km from Hobart, while the endeavours appear to have been successful for farther flung tourists, Hobartians appear not to frequent the place. Nevertheless, the quaint buildings, wooden 'characters' (many of whome were statues of well known identities), and the neat gardens was attractive to us.

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Geeveston is basically a timber town, being named after the owner of the first sawmill and recipient of a large land grant in about 1888- William Geeves. We're told Geeves was a Protestant Minister who, without a parish, initially took to farming (with his brother) but somehow influenced Lady Jane Franklin (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jane_Griffin_%28Lady_Franklin%29) and received the land grant. In any event, being a teetotaller, there are no pubs in Geeveston - which begs the question as to why we chose to stay here. Answer, we didn't (then) know. Anyway, this fact meant we had to backtrack 12km's to the village of Franklin to get dinner. Nevertheless, the dinner at Lady Jane Franklin Hotel was very much worth the effort.

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Friday - Geeveston.

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We were again awoken to wind and rain. That said, our accommodation in Cambridge House - a B&B that was once the residence of William Geeves - was sufficiently robust for us not to be perturbed. After a full breakfast, we contemplated our options. The weather prediction was for considerable wind and scattered showers. We'd ventured to this region to view the forested areas, so had to decide whether the potential for rain would interrupt our intentions.

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The alternatives were to drive further south to less inhabited areas, or venture inland to the forested region. As a guest at the B&B indicated the weather may turn worse later in the day, we decided to head inland.

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The road inland was built for forestry and because of the narrow bitumen and prolific corners is speed limited to 60kph. Within a very short while after leaving Geeveston, we were in tall Eucalypt forest. The signs along the forest edge revealed the region had previously been logged in 1969. We had no way of knowing what the area may have looked like pre-forestry, but a near half century 'recovery' made for a dense landscape. This road leads to the Tahune Forest Reserve (30km from Geeveston), and about half way along, a turn-off leads to the Mt Hartz National Park(15km to Mt hartz). We decided to venture to this NP as it was possible we may sight 'original' forested areas. When within the N.P., we noticed considerably more diversity in the forest ecosystem, but no less density than the logged area. We coudn't see much distance 'into' the forest as the weather had closed in and the (earlier) showers had developed into rain.

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Upon entering the NP, the road changed from bitumen to gravel, and like the Bruny Island NP, the potholes showed the lack of maintenance. Entering a National Park in Tasmania costs $24 per car per day. Given this, we wondered where the money was being spent. About half way, a tree had partially blocked the road. A car had stopped there, and the driver indicated it was an impassable blockage. Bruce noted vehicles has skirted around using the verge and went and investigated. It appeared OK, so he took the risk. At this point, we noted small drifts of snow on the road verges. As we persisted towards the summit, we entered the cloud layer. That said, the rain didn't let up. At the top of the track, the cloud and wind remained, but the rain had become sleety snow. The turning area was under about 6 inches of snow. The walks that we had envisaged were also covered in snow. The dry warmth inside the car was suddenly far more appealing than trudging through a snow laden track to a lookout - especially when enveloped in cloud.

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It wasn't a hard decision to backtrack to the Tehune Forest Reserve road, but we wondered what the reserve would be like in the rain. It didn't take long to find out. The reserve is centred on the junction of the Picton & Huon Rivers. Clad in our wet weather gear, we wandered across the bridge over the (now) raging river to a well regarded walk. Once into the forest, everything appeared carpeted with a massive layer of green moss; reminding us of a very long shagpile carpet. With a dark sky, the continuous rain gave the walk a primordial ambience. We sort of half expected a dinasour to come bolting through the timber walls. The path took us to the rivers edge where the Huon Pine grow. We learned that these Pine grow less than 1mm in girth per year and are highly prized for their straight oil laden grain (making them ideal for boat building). We were looking at a Pine with a girth of about 300mm and realised it emerged before Cook sailed along the Australian coast. We also learned that in the early days of Huon Pine logging, few trees were felled with a girth less than 1 metre. And, on the western side of Tasmania, trees in excess of 3 metres had been felled.

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Wet weather and cold have a capacity to permate even the warmest of clothing. For us, it was time to head back to the car and depart the Reserve. On the road back, we stopped at Keogh's Creek walk to again wander through the luxuriant growth. Fortunately, the rain had subsided, but drops from the leaves persisted. This walk has the similar green moss coating that we experienced on the Huon walk, but this area comprises massive Swamp Gums (in the order of 60+ metres tall). Not that we could see the tops, but the bases were ginormous.

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The road took us back to Geeveston, and being early afternoon we headed south towards Dover. We'd heard there was a nice drive along the coast by taking the Police Pt turnoff. The suggestion didn't disappoint. Interestingly, almost the entire length of the coast (25km) was 'home' to circular fish farms - Atlantic Salmon and Ocean Trout. It really is a big industry down this way. We eventually arrived at Dover and after witnessing an amazing low arcing rainbow almost over Port Esperance (on which Dover sits), we headed back to Geeveston and then to Franklin for dinner



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Saturday - North to Coles Bay via Hobart.

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We'd decided the previous morning to head north (to possible sunshine) and sought accommodation at Coles Bay. Due to our mobile reception being out of range while in the forest the previous day, we sought confirmation last evening on our pc. But, our Telstra 'dongle' wouldn't give us access. We decided to head early to Hobart to seek advice from a Telstra store. The advice we recieved was encouraging (sort of) - we'd run out of credit. While that was easy to resolve, what annoyed us was unlike internet 'dongle' use overseas, Telstra doesn't give advice as to usage. At least we've learnt that 'connection but no internet access' means a visit to a supermarket and more money for Telstra.

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Having parked at a multi-story with a Saturday flat charge, we decided to walk to Salamanca to visit the (renowned) Saturday Market. All we can say is 'What a market!'. Unlike the (supposed) markets on the Gold Coast with stallholders marketing Chinese made crap, we greatly appreciated the focus on locally made. Despite the inclement and cold weather, the ambience was of warmth and cheer. This was all the more pronounced with a raft of folk musicians dotted along the waterfront singing/playing delightful non-amplified music to an appreciative crowd. In a park beside the market were many 'vintage' sports cars on display. We both looked at some of the cars and remarked 'these are from our generation, does that make us vintage?'.

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We said goodbye to Hobart Town and headed north. We were surprised that after Sorrell, some 20k from Hobart, all semblance of urbanity ceased. The drive north through an ever drying landscape was pleasing to the eye. After a seemingly short while, we arrived at Coles Bay and to our accommodation. All we could say was WOW!!! The Cove Apartments is a 2 story beach house - one up, one down. It seems the owners took an older timber beach house and refurbished it in modernist style. We were fortunate to get the very large upstairs apartment with a Masport wood fire and an amazing view over Coles Bay to the Freycinet Peninsular. And, the view.... WOW! But equally stunning was the view from the rear. There, a rural scene of grassy paddock, spring flowers, flowering friut trees and some tall trees captured our imagination. But, perhaps most evocatively of all, the entry to the staircase was draped with a fully flowering wonderfully perfumed Jasmine.

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We drove to the lighthouse overlooking Freycinet Peninsula to look at the coastline. While there, we were treated to a display by a passing Southern Wright Whale. These are most majestic creatures, but when they flex their muscles they have such awesome power. Upon our return to the apartment we enjoyed an entre of local oysters, a Bruny Island soft cheese (from the Salamanca market) washed down with Cascade Export stout, in front of a blazing wood fire was sublime. And, the beef and vegy pasties from Hobart with a decent red wine provided a magical evening.

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Rather than one lo...o...o...o...o...o...ng travelblog, we've split it to two parts.



The next 'instalment' can be found here .



Cheers

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Photos

Departing Bruny Is
Note the barge coming in sideways to the ramp to address wind