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Published: March 3rd 2015
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The granite Island Tram
The operators have a number of Clydesdale Horses that they use throughout the day and over the week. The Fleurieu Peninsular played a very important role in the development not only of South Australia, but also Victoria and NSW, and to some extent the south west of Queensland.
The Peninsular, and specifically from Cape Jervis through to Goolwa was close to very fertile and productive agricultural land. So there was much produce grown here requiring shipment. In the 1850's, the roads we enjoy today didn't exist or were slow rough bullock tracks. So things were initially moved by small steam ships around the coast.
Goolwa was a very important port during that era. There was always people and produce and supplies being moved through Goolwa, across Lake Alexandrina and up the Murray Darling River system. The Murray was the life blood of western NSW and Victoria, not only as a water source, but the only reliable quick transport route in the 1850s and for the next 70 years. But Goolwa was inappropriate as a sea port, even for small coastal traders.
Establishing ports in this region was a real issue. To us, Encounter Bay looks like a photographers dream, but it was a sailor's nightmare. The Great Southern Ocean is unpredictable, and there are so many
reefs under low tide level, that sailing was perilous. It seems to me that over 20 ships foundered in Encounter Bay in the 1800's. Three or four of these were significant vessels, the balance being smaller craft as used by the whaling and fishing fleets based at Victor Harbour.
Port Elliott was gazetted as being the safe harbour. A break water and wharf were commenced, but in the end proved impractical. So early in the 1850's the train line from Goolwa to Port Elliot was extended to the much safer Victor Harbor to move people and produce. The train was initially horse drawn. As the landscape is reasonably flat, this proved an invaluable asset. The line still exists today and runs tourist trains throughout the year on Sundays and Wednesdays. (More often in school holidays) Once at Goolwa the experience can continue with a 100+ year old steam driven paddle steamer taking tourists across the Murray River Mouth and onto Lake Alexandrina. I understand that the train is often hauled by a steam locomotive, but today it was a rail motor on the service. This will be because of the total fire ban in the region in force until
Entrance to Port Elliott
Who needs hazards with rocks like these to sink a ship mid April. Things are very dry here at the moment.
From Victor Harbor to Goolwa we drove through several towns, each only a few kilometres apart. They are quaint and working hard to retain the early settlement styling that is so very South Australian. Old buildings are finding new uses, sometimes bringing a chuckle. For example, a very small Church where believers had their spiritual values cleaned and polished is now a dental surgery doing the same for one's teeth.
Port Elliott does have beautiful Horseshoe Bay, which is very sheltered from the Southern Ocean by small islands and treacherous reefs.
At Victor Harbor there is a horse drawn tram that takes tourists out to Granite Island where one can walk around the island, see dolphins and seals, and maybe even a whale in May to September, or maybe buy a meal once the restaurant reopens later this year. This is the same track as used in the 1850s and onwards for taking produce to ships for export. The safe port at Granite Rock is still clearly visible. The township around Victor Harbor looks good and the community seems to be thriving with a strong tourist emphasis.
The days of sooty trains, smelly whaling ships and horse-drawn wagons has past, but the town has found new life and is growing.
To the north of Victor Harbor is a couple of popular surfing beaches. To me they look dangerous, but the locals and many surfy visitors come for the thrill as reefs pile up great waves.
Victor Harbor is also within an easy drive of two of the wine growing/tasting areas in the east of the Adelaide Hills such as Hahndorf and McLaren Vale. It was also our jumping off point for our day trip to Kangaroo Island. It is only about 60ks from Adelaide, so day trips there are also quite practical.
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Mum & Dad
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Good stuff
Liked this blog well photographed and commented on thanks for the effort