The Town That Australia Forgot (Breathe, Breathe in the Ayr)

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"Im sooo embarassed about last night" said Nicole, who had shown us all how well she could pole dance after a few beers the night before. Her and Danielle only just made it in time for the lift to the coach, and the following transfer in their hungover state.

Today was mainly spent travelling, but that gave me some time to note a few observations.

• Australians are generally speaking far more racist than you expect. Bell - you did warn me and it is soooo true.
  
• Everything can kill you. Sharks, Spiders, Snakes, Jellyfish and perhaps most comically the Southern Casowary - a huge turkey which can disembowel you easily. Nice.
  
• Every Aboriginee that you see seems to have a can of special brew in his or her hand.
  

So the bus pulls into Ayr. A hot empty street. Not much else. I walk up to the hostel. Bear in mind im here for one reason and one reason only - the Yongala - a 1911 wreck reckoned to be one of the best dives in the world. "Vacancies... were pretty vacant. Theres about 5 of you tonight... you can have your own room. Are you here for the diving? Its cancelled because of larry". "Larry?". "Yeah, the Cyclone thats going to hit some time tomorrow... 220 knot winds they reckon". So I learn I have come to this town with nothing at it, for no reason. "So what is there to do here?" I ask. "Well its a very relaxing hostel, and we have a lot of videos and DVDs. Oh... and theres a cinema".

Everything else in town is closed until Tuesday, so I hit the movies before coming back to the hostel to meet the other Residents. Rob, a middle aged Dutch Australian and Hannah, Puber and Sha - three Koreans out here for fruit picking (for which the season has not started). Rob had some pretty strong views about things. "Were all immigrants really, but these new guys - I mean croatians like - coming over here in their thousands - and they arent nice people to start with you know...". I tried to avoid this statement turning into any sort of a debate by focusing on Ayr, and his reasons for being there. "Its a fruit and sugar town. Mainly sugar. They burn the canes just before harvest - look at the rooves - all covered in black shit. Gives lots of folk asthma". And on his reaons for being here. "I came back to meet with wife number three after being apart for a year. We lasted a week in which time she spent all my money before dropping me off at the door of the hostel. That was december". I made my excuses to go and chat to the Koreans when conversation turned to a 'when I was your age' involving thai prostitues and opium dens.

Ayr, dead tho it was, had turned into quite an interesting stopping point. It feels like a modern day Of Mice And Men could be set here...

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Photos

A Bird
It was sitting at the hostel, so I took a photo of it

The Southern Casawary
It can kill you with its toenail.

Comments

[Mum Brown]

Breath, breath in the Ayr
Alex Why! why! Have you gone to Ayr? It sounds quieter than Fobbing. Bye the way are you on a death wish. It might be very uncomfortarble travelling now you have a sore botty. Keep wriggling love mum