Roadtrip

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As a slight detour to our original plan (which was simply to make our way up the east coast to Cairns) we embarked on a trip that was to take us 12 days and 5,760km (approx 3,500 miles) west of our original destination - but, oh, was it worth it - it certainly was - every single step.


We left Hervey Bay the day after our brilliant trip to Fraser Island and spent the next three days driving north to Rockhampton, then on further north to Gladstone, picking up the Capricorn Highway and beginning our adventure into the outback and towards the centre of Australia.


It really was very different. We were able to drive long distances passing very few vehicles and as the miles went by the townships got smaller and less frequent. We shared the road mainly with Roadtrains. I was in the driving seat the first time we came across one (typical!). It was going at a steady 90kmh and my speed was 110kmh, it had four trailers, plus the cab (they can be as long as 53.5m). I remember reading that you should be able to see 1km in front before even attempting to overtake - for those that don't know me too well - I can't see two feet in front of me ordinarilly - fortunately on this occasion I was wearing my glasses - but 1km - how on earth do you judge that distance! I sat behind that roadtrain for a very long time. We did eventually get past, but as soon as we stopped for coffee or lunch it passed us by and we had to do the same manoever all over again. The other challenge to the driver is the livestock - kangeroos, cattle and even wild horses - not only can you do them an awful lot of damage, but the car would come off worse for wear too. Night time driving was definitely a 'no-go' too many bouncy kangeroos!


Our drive took us through a number of interesting towns, Emerald, an area rich in gemstones. Barcledine, where in 1891 striking shearers used to meet under a Old Ghost Gum tree in the town, it became a popular meeting place and was called 'The Tree of Knowledge'. These gatherings led to the formation of the Australian Labor Movement. The tree was poisened about a year ago and we heard only a few days ago it is to be chopped down and preserved. (We had a wonderful Devonshire Cream Tea in Barceldine in amongst a whole garden of English roses on a beautiful sunny day).


McKinlay was another of our coffee stops - unbeknown to us Walkabout Creek Hotel was the very pub used in all three Crocodile Dundee films - no sign of Paul Hogan though - shame! Another claim to fame was that of Banjo Paterson who wrote Australia's national song 'Waltzing Matilda' in a small outback town called Winton - it was here it was performed in public for the first time too.


The landscape had changed quite dramatically over the 1700km that we'd covered. We drove through areas of plains that just went on for as far as the eye could see - a few trees and scrub breaking up the line to the horizon.


Mt Isa was to be our base for a couple of days and where we were able to leave the car. Our hire company didn't allow us to take the car into the Northern Territory, but that suited us just fine as we wanted to experience the real backpacker's world by using the Greyhound buses.


Our 1200km drive to Alice Springs left Mt Isa at 7 in the evening, so we were prepared for the overnight on the coach. The journey was very good with comfort stops every couple of hours and a change of bus at Tennant's Creek at 2 in the morning.


We arrived at Alice Springs at 9 Saturday morning a bit blearey eyed, but eager to see what the town had to offer. We dumped our stuff at the YHA and headed to the info centre for a town map. It was a lovely sunny day and we took ourselves off on a couple of walks - one round the town, the other into the bush to the Telegraph Museum. An early night was needed as we hadn't slept much the night before and we had a very early start the following day.


The following day was to be the highlight of our visit - the Red Centre here we come! Up at 4.30 and picked up at 5.30 we headed off on our 1100km (approx 660 miles) day out (Emu Run Tours). Once outside of Alice Springs our driver informed us of the two main events of the journey to Uluru - the first was a left hand turn, the second was a right hand turn! Yes, just two roads took us all the way. It was so exciting - this icon that we already knew so well from the numerous pictures that we'd seen over the years was to become reality. The journey passed really quickly, the sand becoming redder, and surprisingly the landscape was still full of trees and scrub - I somehow expected it to be totally desert like - all sand - but there we go!


As we drew nearer to Uluru one of our fellow passengers pointed out the first sighting of 'the rock', my heart missed a beat - wow! But we had been fooled, the first of these formations was actually Mt Connor, which is bigger than Uluru, but doesn't have the aboriginal spirital significance that makes Uluru so special. Next was Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), beautiful, we were able to stop and have a walk and get closer to these wonders - the rock so red, the sky so blue - the colours imprinted on my mind forever. Eventually Uluru. We circumnavigated the rock and were told the aboriginal storis of that brings the rock to life. We weren't able to walk round the rock (10km) because there just simply wasn't enough time, but we were given a couple of short guided walks. The rock is amazing - not flat and uninteresting, as the pictures we always see show it, but has large folds and caves, rockart and waterholes.


We visited the Cultural Centre and had a chance to see some of the aboriginal art and craft work.


Towards late afternoon we set off for the 'Sunset observation area', where we had a lovely bbq and at 6.06 toasted the sunset over Uluru with champagne - what a lovely way to end a supurb day.


The journey home seemed to take no time at all - now was that due to the alcohol we had consumed! Back to base by 11.30 - it had certainly been a long day - but one that won't be forgotten in a hurry.


While in Alice Springs we checked out the 'Events Diary' and were delighted to find an event which we would be able to attend. Usually we find the event that appeals to us was either last week, next weekend or even in two months time! But, hey, this time we were lucky - the event? Well the Alice Springs Beanie Festival - in it's 11th year. A town that reaches 40 degrees in the summer and the mid 20's in winter and it has a beanie festival - but it was great fun with 100's of beanies to choose from. Yes, of course I bought one, it took me ages to decide on which one - Mike gave up in the end and left me to it - typical - never there when you need their advice!


We also visited the Alice Springs Desert Park, recommended to us by a fellow traveller. An opportunity to experience difference forest types. With an aboriginal guide explaining to us that a rainforest community would live very differently from a group living in a dry forest and they would only know the skills relevant to their particular lifestyle, not those needed for living in alternative environments.


Our journey back to Mt Isa was fairly straightforward, except we found ourselves with a 20 wait for our bus at Tennant's Creek (not the sort of place one hangs around in) having arrived at 2 in the morning - fortunately a backpacker owner was collecting someone from our bus and found us a bed for the night and we were able to stay on site until 10 the following evening when he ran us back to the bus terminal - lovely people, always so helpful.


Once we had picked the car up at Mt Isa, we drove for a further two days along the Pioneer Highway back to Townsville (lots of dinasaur towns along this stretch of highway) and then south to Arlie Beach to pick up where we left off.


We would loved to have been able to spend more time in the outback, it really was so very different to anything we had experienced up to now. Cattle stations are huge, up to 1,000,000 sq kms - can you imagine trying to round up cattle over such a large area. Helicopters and aircraft are used for this purpose. Children are still taught at home - using the internet now instead of two-way radio. Their teachers visiting maybe once or twice a year and then the children having the opportunity to meet other children a couple of times a year too. An existance we cannot begin to comprehend - when would we do the food shopping!


So back to big towns and lots of people, but we've got the fun of the North Queensland Tropical Coast ahead of us and the weather is looking pretty good at the moment.


If you're still reading, I admire your staying power - fingers are beginning to get very tired and I think we are too, hoping for a more restful last couple of weeks to prepare ourselves for the inevitable return home.


Hope you are all keeping well and we are looking forward to seeing you all soon. Keep in touch, we're still here for a bit longer and who knows what waiting round the corner for us ...........

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Comments

[Vicki]

green with envy
Hi Jenny and Mike, how I envy every step you take it brings back so many memories, you are following the same steps that I took when I went around Oz, it opens many doors, there is just so much to see, and you have'nt been to the west of Oz, maybe next trip hahaha, I look forward to your stories, it's like a story book and I get upset when I have to wait for the next episode hahaha! The weather here is dreadful lots of flooding mainly up North and midlands thousands of houses flooded, we have been lucky heavy rain but no flooding, Well take care and I look forward to your Cairns adventure you will love it, love Vicki xx