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Published: August 18th 2006
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Russell - Well we finally arrive in Yulara - the resort town built for tourists visiting Australia’s biggest icon - Uluru. Probably better known as Ayer’s Rock - it is, despite what the souvenir shops might say, the second biggest monolith in the world. (The biggest is in Western Australia, is twice as big and totally unknown). Of course no one is sure exactly how big it is as it as most of it is underground. But we were there to see what we could see and headed straight to the rock. We drove around it and took a look from all angles before heading to the sunset lookout. We were there early enough to get a good place as the area fills up pretty quickly. Fortunately though, coach parties are sent to a different look out so the main crowd is away from you.
The rock itself does look amazing as the sun goes down. The light reflects off it giving it a eerie glow and you can see why the aboriginal peoples of the area revere it so much. It starts to glow an amazing red as the sun starts to sink and then purples and blues rise
up from the horizon as the sky turns to night. Eventually the earth’s shadow hits the bottom of the rock and slowly climbs it. Then suddenly it is all over and darkness reigns. It is a fantastic show and you should all try and go see it.
After the sun had sank the cars all hit the road to get back to Yulara as there is pretty much no where else to go. We waited for the main crowds to go so we could appreciate the rock in the twilight. We were soon winding our way back too and I was thinking how nice it was not to be following the crowds of traffic when I looked in my rear view mirror and saw them all behind me. Ah well, I’m not hurrying and creating some more roadkill.
We got back to the campsite and set the BBQ going for some real Aussie tucker - snags. The campsite was very dimly lit and you could see the whole Milky Way above you. It is the most spectacular starscape I’ve seen - even clearer than in Wales. Of course all the stars are in the wrong place but we
Red Uluru
As the sun sets think we worked out where the Southern Cross is. Unfortunately for us it was also starting to head for freezing so we got in the van and did our best to keep warm.
Next day we headed straight for the rock. We drove to a couple of places where there were some self- guided walks and learnt about how the aboriginal guardians feel about the place. It is all tied up with Dreamtime (their creation story) and how people should act towards each other. Stories on honesty and respect are abundant. Unfortunately the thoughts on respect don’t get through to everyone as despite being asked by the aboriginal people and owners not to climb the rock, hundreds do. A little line of tiny people were making their way up the rock. The locals call them Minga or ants. But the fact is that climbing the rock is a desecration to them. They do not climb the rock themselves as it is the path taken by their ancestors in the dreamtime. Basically it would be like going to a cathedral and climbing on top of the alter to have a look through the window. You just wouldn’t do it out
Purple Uluru
And now its set of respect - regardless of your religious beliefs. But I guess you see it all over. If you go to see the Mona Lisa in the Louvre there are signs saying do not take photos but it is hard to appreciate it with all the camera flashes going off. If you visit the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican there are signs up asking people to be silent but is so noisy in there they employ people to shush everyone. People can just be jerks and here is another example. Whilst we were there we were asked to take part in a survey about why we were there and whether closing the climb would stop us from coming and I guess that is the rub. The aboriginal owners were only granted title to the land on condition they leased it back to the park authorities on a 99 year lease. The park authorities are worried that if people can’t climb they wont come to the middle of nowhere to just look. But I wouldn’t expect to be allowed to climb after the 99 year lease is up, that’s for sure. Until then they will rely on their signs to discourage people
The Olgas
At sunset from climbing. One points out that every year people die trying to climb the rock. This makes them sad - especially for the families left behind to grieve.
We were going to walk around the base of the rock but we discovered that driving is much easier. It is a long way around it you know. After we had our fill of the rock we headed to the next big sight in town - Kata Tjua - the Olgas.
Kata Tjuta are another strange rock formation that have cultural significance. We walked up the path to the gorge in the centre and admired the view back across the plain. Although they are not as awe inspiring as the rock they are sure worth the visit now you have come all this way. We stayed until sunset and watched these rocks come alive. The show was briefer than Ayer’s Rock and all too soon it was time to carefully drive back to Yulara - watching out for those roos.
The next day we decided to see sunrise at the rock. We headed out early aiming to get there about 10 mins before sunrise. Big mistake as most people
are there about an hour before and since all the bus tours stop in the same place it is crowded. It was also already pretty light so it felt like we had missed some of it. The sunrise was impressive though as the rock glowed in the early morning sun. For my money though sunset is better. It less cold for a start!
After sunrise we headed straight for Kings Canyon - made famous by Priscilla Queen of the Desert - though I realise now they must have changed the script so they didn’t encourage people to climb Uluru. Kings Canyon isn’t close to Uluru, though in outback terms they are right next door. It took us from sunrise to after lunch time to get to our campsite at Kings Creek. After a quick check-in we headed to the Canyon and were there in time to walk in the mid-afternoon sun! The walk is about 3 hours long and goes up and around the canyon. The first part is virtually vertical but that is supposed to be a test of your strength. If you can’t do that bit then don’t go on! The views of the canyon are absolutely
Early Uluru 2
Chuffing cold! amazing - the pictures don’t do it justice. There were Peregrine Falcons on the cliff faces. The views across the outback went on for miles. We walked for a while before sitting under a Coolibah tree and had some crisps and a caramel Koala - Waltzing Matilda…….
Finally much to Lins’ relief the walk was over and we were back down on ground level. It was time to get back to the campsite - another night admiring the stars before we headed back towards civilisation. Well Cobber Pedy anyway.
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Pam (Mouchel Parkman)
non-member comment
Just catching up on all you've been doing. Your wedding looked amazing and you looked fabulous Lindsay, Russell looked pretty good too hehe! You've had such an amazing trip, so much to see in Oz. Just looking at these pics of Ayers Rock, one of my fav places - such an air of mystery about it. Have enjoyed reading your blog as you travel around. Take care!