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Published: October 21st 2009
After crossing the Tropic of Capricorn for the third time on our road trip we headed down to Alice Springs. On arriving into the town we were somewhat dismayed to see so many drunks on the streets and the whole town seemed to have a real air of misery around it- not helped by the fact that the weather seemed to have taken a turn for the worse and was now very cloudy and gloomy. After a quick pit stop we headed out of Alice Springs towards the homestead at Curtain Springs where we had decided to spend the night. Once again we misjudge the distance and so arrive in pitch darkness- not much fun when you’re not sure where the entrance is, the rain is bucketing down and we then have to park the van in the field out back!
The following morning we head over to one of the great natural wonders of the world. Uluru (Ayers Rock) stands 348m high and measures 9.8km around the base, with most of the rock being invisible under the earth. Archaeologists suggest that Aboriginal people have been in this area for at least 22,000 years, the traditional custodians of the area being
the Anangu people. After spending quite a bit of time in the cultural centre, reading and listening to the history surrounding Uluru, we head back out to appalling weather conditions now- the rain is hammering down. We drive around to the Mala Walk and park up waiting for the rain to stop, en route witnessing amazing waterfalls coming down off the rock. Eventually the rain eases off enough to allow us to walk on the Mala Walk, ending up at the Kantju Gorge which was just so beautiful, especially as the sun was now shining through. After heading around to the northern part of the rock we stop at the Kuniya Walk and marvel at the number of waterfalls coming down the rock, all from the recent heavy rain. We still cannot believe that so many people want to climb up Uluru, not only because so many people have died whilst trying to do it but also as the Anangu people discourage it and it is seen as disrespectful to them when you do climb up. They can only hope that by educating people in the traditional ways and culture of the Anangu people that everyone can arrive at the
decision not to climb up by themselves.
As the sun set over Uluru we see the rock change from a golden amber glow to a deep reddy brown colour and then to a dark brown/grey colour - totally amazing and surprisingly an incredibly moving and magical experience that we will never forget.
Approx. 50km away from Uluru lays Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). These are a massive pile of 36 weathered rock domes, estimated to be around 600 million years old. The highest of the domes, Mt Olga, is far higher than Uluru and the local Anangu people believe the rocks are more spiritual and sacred than Uluru. Under their “mens law” access to lots of the Olgas is restricted to allow their “mens business” to take place (it is forbidden for details of what takes place to be revealed and no one talks about it)
We have a long, arduous climb along the Walpa Gorge walk which is made more difficult by the uneven cobbled rocks that we have to scramble up. Its also extremely windy and we resort to putting on rainmacs just to protect us from the wind!! At the top we are rewarded with great views
and eavesdrop on a guides talk to his group before descending back down to the base.
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