Bitter Springs to Roper Bar


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Oceania » Australia » Northern Territory » Mataranka
June 20th 2016
Published: July 4th 2016
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Mataranka to Roper Bar

The Savannah Way is the 3700km stretch from Broome in the West via Katherine to Cairns in the East.
The route traversees some of the country's most rugged and spectacular scenery, including five world heritage listed areas and more than 15 national parks.
We are attracted to touring the Savannah Way because of its remoteness and lack of development, as it passes through Savannah woodlands, historic mining towns, aboriginal communities, cattle stations and the ever-changing geological wonders.

The days travel began 0928hrs, odometer 92322, temperature 18 degrees celsius, at Bitter Springs. A wallaby hopping under our awning, eating Corn Flakes with us for breakfast.
We travelled into the Mataranka township and topped up our supplies and fuel, 1.325 cents per litre, odometer 92526, for our trek along the Savannah Way.

We then visited the Mataranka Thermal Pool. A sandy bottom pool surrounded by palms. A constant 34 degrees Celsius it flows from Rainbow Springs, 30.5 million litres each day. Adding to crystal pool is the palm fridge and concreted edge with steps. We had a much nicer swim here than the Bitter Springs.
Whilst here we visited the Elsey Homestead Replica. An original copy of a hand hewn cypress pine homestead. It was constructed for the film 'We of the Never Never'. The film based in Mataranka from the book written by Jeannie Gunn in the early 1900's. Jeannie and her husband Aeneas lived in the area and the film and book captures the isolation, hardships and interactions with the aboriginals of early settlers.
We did not visit the tourist attraction of the moment Elsey Cemetery, the resting place of many of the characters from Jeannie Gunn's book.

Instead we followed the Stuart Highway 7 kilometres to the Savannah Way turn off east on the Roper Highway, we travelled to Roper Bar.
Roper Bar is 180 kilometres along the Roper Highway.
Most of the road sealed however we travelled many side tracks where road works were taking place.
Eventually we met the official gravel road that we would travel in for the approximately 800kms. We deflated our tyres pressure to 30kmmol for the corrugation and stones are rough.
We arrived Roper Bar mid afternoon.
Roper River is apparently one of the worlds great rivers. Starting at Mataranka with the thermal springs it travels 250 kilometres east to the sea.
All the tourist brochures state that it is a great place to catch Barramundi, although the regular fishermen and campers say the season is not good. We are still prepared to give it a go. Watching out for the crocodiles.
Roper Bar is where explorer Leichhardt's expedition in 1845 crossed the Roper River and named it after a member of his expedition John Roper.
The Bar was built in the early 1900's as part of the supply route for the overland telegraph line and this is where everyone crosses today. At present plans are in place to build a bridge.
We visited the Roper Bar store which supplies every thing from kids clothing and toys to food, household goods and fishing equipment.
We purchased our most expensive diesel for the trip 'so far' at 2.20cents per litre, noting a box of Arnott's Shapes cost $6.40, normally around $2.20. Our car odometer read 92324kms. We also bought an opera fishing net and soap to catch sherripean (shrimp like crustaceans) as bait.
Setting up at the camp ground with running water, hot showers and running toilet we discussed the fishing with other campers and picked up another net and rig for fishing.
An early dinner of BBQ, chicken and vegetable rice plus salad. We took a drive to the Bar and boat ramp check it out and to put in our nets. Full Moon and cool evening.


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