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Published: July 28th 2011
So near and yet so far
but I just didn't fancy getting over these rocks so we didn't make it to the CascadesTuesday 19th – we were packed up and ready to go soon after 9am. We had enjoyed our stay at the Oasis Caravan Park but it was time to move on. We had decided not to go into Kakadu National Park as we had spent some time there on our previous visit, but would head for Batchelor which was fairly close to Litchfield National Park. As it was only 100 kms we were parked up by the Big 4 Caravan Park at 10.15. We’d booked a site on the internet and the receptionist was quite happy for us to move on straight away.
We were very pleasantly surprised at the roominess of the site and it was surrounded by palm trees. With no expert guidance available it was left to me to help Graham reverse Sweetie up close to the block. In spite of that he managed very well and before long we were set up and relaxing with a cup of tea.
Batchelor was named after Lee Batchelor who was responsible for the Northern Territory back in 1908. In 1949 the Rum Jungle Uranium deposit was found and a mine was set up in 1952 but it closed
in 1971 and today the population of Batchelor is less than 1000.
Later on we nipped into town but stopped on the way to look at a rather strange castle. A Czech immigrant called Bernard Havlik had made his home in Batchelor and spent most of his life working for the community, mainly as a gardener. He wanted to make a contribution to the community and, over the years, had been frustrated by a collection of boulders in the heart of the town with which nothing much could be done. He decided to transform them into a replica of a famous castle he recalled from his homeland and spent years working on it crafting and moulding it all by hand. Kalstein Castle still stands today in Bohemia, Czechoslovakia. Sadly, Bernard died in 1990 just before his replica was completed and the final piece, a water wheel, was found under his death bed. The castle was eventually completed on his behalf and has become quite a landmark.
After completing our shopping we relaxed for the rest of the day, planning how we were going to tackle the many delights of Litchfield National Park. There are a considerable number of
tourist attractions, mainly waterfalls, rock pools and swimming holes, but even the nearest was a 40 kms drive away. We had heard also that the most popular swimming places get very busy very early so it may be better to approach them later in the day when many of the day trippers have left. We were planning to stay in the area for several days so what we struggled to do on one day we could easily do on another.
So on Wednesday 20th after a fairly leisurely breakfast, we left armed with a picnic and our swimming gear and decided to call in at the attractions as we came to them and to see how busy they were. The first things we saw were Termite Mounds. These were pretty special in that, not only were there the usual irregular shaped mounds, one of which – Cathedral Mound - was absolutely enormous, but there was also a series of “Magnetic” mounds which had been cleverly constructed to negate the full effect of the sun’s rays. They were still tall and quite wide but had a perfectly straight narrow edge built in line with the progress of the sun so
that the wide faces did not feel the full heat of the day. Damned clever these termites!
Our next port of call was Buley Rock Holes. These are a series of small waterfalls and swimming holes which are fairly easy to get to – consequently they are always very busy. Sure enough, every parking space was taken so we went on to the nearby Florence Falls. This was also very busy but we managed to “manufacture” a parking place and took the short walk to the falls lookout. They were quite spectacular but, perhaps, the main attraction was another magnificent swimming hole which we could see way below us but which required a difficult climb down to get to. As with the Buley Rock Holes, we decided to approach the swimming hole on another day. We then headed straight to our most anticipated visiting spot for our picnic - Wangi Falls – they are probably the most spectacular of all the falls but also boast a really splendid natural swimming hole. We had heard that swimming was currently not allowed but that it could be open at any time so we took the short walk down with fingers crossed.
It was just as wonderful a sight as we remembered from our last visit but, sure enough, because of the level and force of the water and the outside chance of the presence of salt water crocodiles, swimming was still banned, but we enjoyed our picnic nevertheless.
Slightly disappointed, we drove on the short distance to check out a Safari Camp – a park I had thought to spend a few days at, possibly in one of their safari cabins. It had a very good write-up but didn’t quite match up to our expectations. It was still tempting as it is so well placed to easily reach the many pearls that Litchfield has to offer but, overall, we felt we would be more comfortable staying in Batchelor and travelling the extra kilometres each day. To compensate for our wasted journey we visited the Litchfield Café which, despite being virtually in the middle of nowhere, is very popular and is famous for its mango cheesecake. We ordered a pot of tea for two and Graham took no persuading to sample the cheesecake although I must confess he didn’t have it entirely to himself! Time was going on but there was
still plenty of daylight ahead of us so, out of curiosity, we called back into Buley Rock Holes which earlier had been packed out. Sure enough, the early day trippers had left and there was plenty of space in the car park – we were able to park right close by. Encouraged by the quietness, I was persuaded to have a dip – it wasn’t really deep enough to swim – but Graham was struggling with a bit of a cold so decided not to risk it. It was lovely and easy to see what the attraction is. We strolled to look at the other water holes – about 5 or 6 in all – but those that were deep enough to swim in were also good for jumping in and were still busy, only the shallower ones were empty enough to enter easily. Nevertheless, it was still an enjoyable visit.
On the way back we stopped again at the Termite Mounds to get better photos – they were deserted now whereas earlier they had been very busy. Still having 50 kilometers or so to get back to Batchelor meant we would almost certainly arrive back in the dark
but the journey was easy and we soon made ourselves comfortable for the night after a very enjoyable day.
We just idled Thursday away – Graham’s cold was beginning to get worse and we hoped a quiet day would help recover.
With Graham feeling slightly better on Friday morning we set off, again armed with a picnic lunch, and headed for Florence Falls. The car park wasn’t quite so busy but we still had to park a little way from the main footpath, but this was next to a beautiful creek-side picnic area. We were headed for the swimming hole and there were quite a few steps down (160) and then a lovely undulating walk to the pool. Graham didn’t feel up to swimming so I ventured in alone but I didn’t find it easy clambering in over the rocks. The water was warm and very clear. I didn’t swim out too far but mooched around fairly close to the edge where there were some large flat rocks to perch on. The two waterfalls over the far side of the pool looked fantastic - shame I didn’t get that far. It was equally tricky clambering out of the
We only just squeezed in on this photo
with the camera set on the self timer! water – trust Graham to take some photos of me looking very ungainly, none of which will reach the blog - but it was a truly enjoyable experience.
We decided to walk back to the car via the Shady Creek Walk – a kilometre long path that had been partially paved and which wound through contrasting monsoonal and dry woodland areas and passed over several creek crossings. It was delightful and as the information board had hinted, lovely and shady. By the time we got back to the car park all the picnic tables were occupied by large groups of people so we decided to drive off and find a quieter spot. On we went to Tabletop Swamp where it was perfect timing for our picnic lunch. As the name suggests, it’s an area of swampland which attracts bird life but where there are many picnic tables so an ideal place to have a quiet lunch – or so we thought. We were still finishing our picnic when a large family (large in number and size) simply came and took over our picnic table without a single word to us – it was very bizarre and quite the most
ignorant display of bad manners we have encountered in the whole 10 months of our travels. After a few well chosen words I went off in a huff with my binoculars while Graham retreated to the nearby car and proceeded to blast them out with the car radio. Strangely they didn’t seem to want to linger for a picnic as by the time I got back from my walk they’d gone!! By the swamp I came across a couple who were German exiles, living in Perth, who were avid bird watchers and they pointed out a couple of birds they had spotted.
We drove on to Tolmer Falls and they were truly beautiful. It involved a bit of a walk to reach them but it was worth it if only to see “fat family” struggling back up the slope to the car park. We lingered at the falls for some time as the setting was glorious and the view looking over the National Park was fantastic. The journey back was very easy and brought a satisfactory end to a very enjoyable day.
On Saturday 23rd, Graham was still feeling a bit under the weather so, with our wedding
anniversary due in a couple of days, we decided to spoil ourselves by moving to an “en suite” site. I had hoped to spend a few days in a cabin for a change but my trawling of the internet had failed to come up any vacancies. The ensuite site was about four times the size of a normal one with a beautiful uninterrupted outlook across the bush and a large private facilities block with a huge shower, separate toilet, sinks and work surfaces galore and even our own washing-machine (although you still had to pay to use it!). It was certainly plush in caravanning terms but, of course, it wasn’t cheap. Having set ourselves up on the new site in the morning, we decided to visit the Batchelor Butterfly Farm which also boasted a fancy restaurant. We had it in mind to have our anniversary meal there so it was a good opportunity to try it out. What we had was excellent and in very pleasant surroundings so it augured well for the 25th. We decided to pay the $10 each to see the butterflies but, in truth, they were a little disappointing - $5 would have been more appropriate.
What was there was fantastic but the “farm” was really a medium sized, though well constructed shed and the number and variety of butterflies were not great, but It was nice and we enjoyed it. I decided to book a table for Monday evening in the restaurant and had a very strange conversation with the lady on reception – she told me about a free concert that was taking place on Monday at the local Aboriginal Educational Institute but she couldn’t remember who was involved, only that they were highly regarded and she didn’t know what time it started or finished!! It sounded as though it could be very interesting so I booked a table for whenever the concert finished! We searched the shop windows for any information and eventually found out that William Barton, one of the best didgeridoo players in Australia, would be performing so we were quite thrilled at the prospect of seeing him. Graham wasn’t feeling any worse but we decided not to tempt fate and just relaxed for the rest of the day.
On Sunday, after a very slow start in our posh surroundings, we decided to head straight for Wangi Falls. We had
seen signs that suggested that today was the day the swimming hole would probably be re-opened. Traffic was quite busy but most of it seemed to be turning off towards the earlier falls and swimming holes. When we arrived at Wangi it was, nevertheless, busy but, alas, the pool was still closed. We consoled ourselves with a challenging walk which would take us right up and over the source of the falls with several different viewing points looking across the National Park. It was, indeed, very difficult with a considerable number of steep steps which climbed up to the first lookout. Walker numbers had dwindled to virtually nil but we did catch up with a very young family, a tot who was being carried and two youngsters of about 3 years. We questioned whether they should be doing such a walk but they seemed happy enough as we left them behind on the next difficult stretch upwards. We were on our own now and the scenery and outlook were breathtaking and well worth the effort but the worst part was still to come as we began to make our way down the other side of the falls. Graham is quite
fleet of foot going up or down but I really struggle going down and my progress was painfully slow. Graham waited for me, of course, but imagine my embarrassment when we were overtaken by those three year olds bouncing along without a care in the world and their parents, one of whom was carrying a toddler, making very light work of it all. In due course, several other people caught up and sailed by but eventually we completed the tough but very satisfying descent.
Now it was time for our picnic and we found a large but empty, ten seater picnic table. This time we were joined by a family of Germans who politely asked if they could share our table - they were delightful and we all enjoyed a very pleasant picnic together.
Just beyond Wangi Falls was another area, the Cascades, which we had driven to but not explored a few days earlier. We had heard that the cascades were a very special combination of small waterfalls and swimming holes so, as we still had plenty of daylight ahead of us, we decided to give them a go. What we didn’t realise was that the walk
to get to them, though no more than a couple of kilometres, was extremely tricky and you needed to be a mountain goat to make it. This didn’t become truly apparent until, with about 500 meters to go, after what was already a tough scramble, we encountered a small river crossing!! Wet feet were inevitable and I was prepared for that, but it was virtually, for me anyway, a “hands and knees” job and I didn’t want to get soaked especially as we had the rucksack and camera with us. Even Graham, who is usually prepared to have a go at anything, was showing some reluctance to continue so we were reduced to enjoying the walk back and just imagining what Cascades must have been like. To compensate, we found our way to The Litchfield Café again and enjoyed another round of tea with mango cheesecake. As on a previous day, it was quite dark when we arrived back at the caravan but with the knowledge of not having to compete with anyone else for a shower we were very relaxed after another exciting, though challenging day. We finished the day off with a Sunday Roast and some glasses of
wine at the caravan park motel, conference and restaurant complex.
During Sunday night and Monday morning Graham really wasn’t very well. He had been up several times in the night and was extremely faint first thing in the morning – the morning of our 41st wedding anniversary!! We couldn’t pinpoint any obvious reason although his cold of the previous few days had become more like flu by last night and his many late nights watching the Tour de France couldn’t have helped. No doubt the cheesecake and the roast dinner with wine didn’t help much either. Our anniversary day was beginning to look bleak and, to be honest, I wasn’t feeling brilliant either - it wasn’t looking very promising. One of the caravan park workers told us of a medical centre on the outskirts of Batchelor so we forced ourselves to go there for advice. We were amazed at how modern the facility was – it must be very new – which housed a small hospital as well as a doctor’s surgery. The nurse on reception offered to make a doctor’s appointment but really we just wanted some anti-flu tablets which might help ease our discomfort. She thought it
might be a combination of the heat, tiredness and dehydration and recommended some panadol with plenty of water and plenty of rest. Ironically, they couldn’t issue any panadol so we had to go to the local shop to buy some. So for the rest of the day – our anniversary – we both spent either in bed or with our feet up drinking loads of water and taking panadol every four hours or so. Sadly I cancelled the booking at the restaurant and we didn’t make it to the concert either but somewhere down the track we’ll have a special day to make up for the disappointment. Many thanks for the good wishes we received for our anniversay.
Tuesday became another very casual day just taking advantage of the splendid posh and private facilities. But at last Graham was showing signs of a recovery though he was eating very little. We had contemplated booking an extra day but Graham felt that, if the heat and humidity were contributory factors to his poorliness, we would be better drifting further south where it might not be quite so intense. The day progressed well - we were able to potter about making
small preparations should we decide to move on and by late afternoon we agreed that it was time to head back down towards Katherine. I’d enquired by email about a site on a different park to last time and they’d confirmed that they had a vacancy so, tomorrow, we will head for Riverview Caravan Park in Katherine. We had enjoyed our stay at Batchelor despite the health drawbacks and had been hugely entertained most days, not just by the magnificent natural features of Litchfield, but also by the many skydivers taking part in a skydiving convention at the nearby airfield. Daily we would spot dozens of divers with multi-coloured parachutes weaving their way down to the ground. Try as we might we never actually saw any departing an aeroplane or free-falling at speed – only when they were drifting towards the airfield - it was 'so near and yet so far'!.
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