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Published: October 15th 2013
As we headed west on the 17
thSept we had no idea we would be gracing the town of Alice again so soon, but here we are updating another blog from the centre! Of course, there is a story behind the backtracking, but first we’ll fill you in on our big adventure out & back again….
The first couple of nights away saw the usual “restless rangas” as we got walked all over, meowed at, our slightly stressed rangas battling to get used to the whole bus idea again. But they were little champs at settled back into the routine of walking on leashes & being confronted with a new camp every night within a couple of days. I think we all forgot how cramped the little bus bed is on a two-cat night!!
Out into the West Mcdonnell ranges we visited Ellery Creek for the initial eve, seeing some gorgeous brumbies watering in the afternoon and basically enjoying the serenity of the bush once again. On to Red bank Gorge the next night, heading off on a stunning walk into the gorge early the next morning. For this we even set the alarm for 6am
so as to see the sunrise – shock horror! Aren’t we meant to be on holidays??? Of course gorgeous scenery made the early rise more than worthwhile.
From here we headed via Mereenie Track (the “back way”) slowly crawling our way to Kings Canyon, or Watarrka National Park. This was 153km of rough, corrugated, dusty road, so 2 nights & days later we arrived at Ginty’s Lookout which is just 30km overlooking Kings Canyon. Thanking our lucky stars that there we no other campers, we promptly set up camp & decided to have a shower as it had been a few days (yep, another thing to get used to all over again – hobbitness!). Should have known it was too good to be true. We had noticed a few bees hanging around the bins in the camp ground & they were buzzing around our pot plants etc, but by the time the showers took place we were ABSOLUTELY SWARMED!!! They soon worked out that they could get under the outer edge of the shower, so having gone first, poor Jeff was on patrol among them to try & stop them getting IN the shower tent with Tab,
Hittin the road
The first time...while she was on high alert for attack from the inside. Never washed herself so quick!!
We took refuge in the bus & just chilled out reading in the afternoon, hoping as they sun set they would bugger off. Wishful thinking. They had set themselves up inside the shower tent, shower bucket & even in the water pump for the shower, so next step was to start the disruption process. We both went out to start emptying anything with water in or near it, but alas Tab had made mistake number 2…..she’d put on her fave perfume…..Jasmine oil….say no more. She flew back indoors & Jeff beekeeper layered up the clothes (in nearly 40 degree heat!) & bravely attacked the thousands of stingers that had set up camp in our gear. A most memorable camp, and a lesson learned, that if there’s no one else camped at a really nice spot, it really does mean it’s too good to be true!
On into Kings Canyon, quite a nice camp ground, but gee the weather was roasting hot! We went up to the sunset viewing deck, but couldn’t get any photos without other bastards in
the way, so went back to camp & had an early night in preparation for our walk the next day, and yet another alarm set, this time for 5.30am. Glad we did, as by the time we got to the carpark for the rim walk, there were already about a hundred people there – perhaps we should have set it for 4.30am!! So, on up the steep ascent to begin the rim walk, & spent the next few hours enjoying walking the amazing views & formations of Kings Canyon. Back to camp, showers & we hit the road bound for Ayers Rock, or Uluru & The Olgas, or Kata Tjuta. We took two nights to get there as well, enjoying one night under the biggest full moon we’ve seen in ages. This camp too was surrounded by wild brumbies, and we even had a visit from a friendly local dingo who thought our stir-fry smelt pretty damn good.
We got a top spot at the Yulara Campground so booked in for 3 nights to really have time to enjoy all the walks & events around the Rock & Olgas, including a night out on the last night
to enjoy an extravagant degustation dinner matched with wine in the Resort, bloody lovely!! On the first morning we headed out by “Daz” at 5.30am to witness the sunrise on the Olgas on our way to do the ‘Valley of the Winds’ & rim walk out there. We also enjoyed the sunset viewing area by getting off the beaten track (and away from the crowds of thousands!) & sipping on a cold Corona while we watched the spectacle. Next morning, another early rise to enjoy the sunrise view over the rock, in the aim of attempting the climb up to the summit. Alas, as the weather was predicted at 38 that day they had already closed the walk. So we headed off to do the 10.5km base walk right the way around this monstrous monolith. It was just beautiful with so many interesting sections that you don’t really appreciate looking at the rock on sunrise or sunset. After reluctantly packing up our camp the next morning, we decided to attempt the summit walk again on our way out. Here we had a “cat”astrophe! As we were chatting to the lady on the gate, Oscar decided to jump up onto his
scratching pole & was spied by the woman! She promptly gave us permission to turn around, so no climb today either! Never mind, it’s gone on to the bucket list instead.
From Yulara we spent the next night at Curtain Springs Station, enjoying a yummy cooked breaky from their kitchen before hitting the highway south on our way to Old Andado, via Kulgera. Anticipating a 3 night journey out via another corrugated, dusty road, we were surprised to get only 50km from the old station before pulling up stumps for the night on the New Crown trucking yards. Arriving the next morning, we met the current caretakers Morag & Arthur, setting up our camp & heading over to Molly’s grave to say g’day with a cold beer as the sun went down.
With temps reaching 42 under our awning the following day, we spent a lazy one just reading & chatting, having an early night so we could get up early to take some photos of the sanddunes in the sunrise the next morning. Well….the desert had other ideas for us! It huffed, it puffed & it blew our house down! About 3 in
Rocks Redbank Gorge
Looked like they were made of pewter the morning the biggest baddest dust storm came rolling in & destroyed our awning & rocking & rolling the bus until sunlight. Now, having gone through a Category 2 cyclone below Port Hedland we can honestly report these winds were far stronger!
So upon waking, repacking everything that got shoved “wherever” during the chaos, we took off about 8am, back out the road we’d come. With a prediction of rain to come, we didn’t want to get stuck as well! Another 10 hour bumpy ride to Kulgera. All the way in we talked about having a beer, bath & burger (hopefully in that order) which we promptly made a reality on arrival back, making our selves as dust-free as possible before heading over to the pub attached to the caravan park. The next morning, a reluctant right turn back up the highway to Alice to begin chasing up a replacement awning, which proved to be a nightmare with the muppets we had to deal with at the only caravan repair place in town. Trust us, don’t break down in Alice Springs!
On the very bright side, we managed to catch up with Phil &
Di who are here tidying up Molly’s estate, helped out with the “lawn sale” (garage sale to us East-Coasters!!!), had a lovely time yakking, beering & eating, and even managed a trip back to Old Andado with them the weekend just gone, planning on staying for a couple of nights, but as fate would have it the weather looked mighty threatening on the 2
nd morning, so “just in case” we headed back a day early so as not to get stuck if the road turned to mud. But we had a great night away none the less & Jeff & Tom (Molly’s great grandson) took off up the dunes to play on the quad, and we enjoyed the serenity of Old Andado by the fire, with an awesome feed of porterhouse, a few vino’s & great company.
So as we pack up once again, we are thankful for catching up with the Clark family once more, and looking forward to heading south for real this time. See you in South Australia!
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chick
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the rock
hey sorry to hear you didnt get to walk up to the summit, but you got some great shots and saw some cool things anyway.xxx