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Published: August 7th 2015
Well I am sitting in Bait Reef, an inner reef of the Great Barrier Reef northeast of the Whitsundays, with a setting sun after a great day’s snorkelling and fish watching. I have made it here and this is the story of that trip. Firstly here is the Capt’n’s log.
Hakura and I (with Fred in the latter half) travelled 1 314 nautical miles (nmiles) over 66 days from June 16
th till August 21. No average speed because Hakura and I were stationary for many days waiting for weather or repairs, more details later.
Well back to Bermagui and the cool of June in southern NSW. Digga and Soph had gone on the early (and only) bus to Sydney and I was back to solo sailing heading north. This time I had to deal with a head current and shorter periods of daylight compared with the trip down in November and December, not to mention the cold. Oh please don’t mention the cold. We will get to the coldest place so far (after Hobart that is) later.
The next big job was to get ready to head north
which included stocking up with food (what a nice new Woolworths in Bermagui), water and fuel (the latter two from the fisherman’s wharf).
Well on the morning of Friday 19 June I was ready and had a stiff southwesterly to push me north. The next port was Batemans Bay though I could not do the 50 nmiles and be able to cross the Clyde River bar in daylight, so the next stop was an over night inside Broulee Is. Some readers will remember that this anchorage was used albeit without sleep on the way down. After a good sail up the coast (with some whale activity further offshore) I arrived inside the island.
Before leaving Bermagui I had reported into the NSW Marine Rescue, however, the lady on was not able to log me on as stopping in Broulee on the way to Batemans Bay. Thus as I was anchoring on Friday night, I got a phone call from a guy in Batemans Bay who though I should have already arrived there. He asked me where I was. After explaining that I was safely anchored inside the island and that I would be arriving
in Batemans Bay the next morning, we did have a very good discussion about the best time the cross the bar. It was agreed that 10:00 to 10:30 was a good time form me to cross.
Again, not a great sleep, in fact the GPS, which was let on overnight to make use of its anchor alarm (there was no dragging of the anchor), we did do a lot of swing around, hance the 4 nmiles difference between the evening and next morning readings.
The Saturday was fine and I had a gentle motor sail around into the bay and just before 10 was lining up the bar when I received a call from the next guy at Batemans Bay NSW Marine Rescuer to see where I was, and after he noticed me outside about to cross the bar he said I was in the right place and on the leads (the line of best travel through the bar). Just then a wave formed and started to break behind and to the side of me, which excited the guy but I could see it was off to the side and if anything it showed
See he is really on Hakura.
Cap'n with his tea and Fred with a coffee.me I was in the right place.
There was a very small swell running but the bar is very shallow thus the need to cross during the latter half of a rising tide. Have I told you I don’t like crossing bars, well I don’t? Anyway, this one went well. At the time I thought it was the firs bar I had crossed but since then I have found out that Port Stephens is considered to have a bar so it was the second.
After some confusion over which marina berth and the best way to get into it, Hakura and I were safely in the Marina. Now for the paperwork and fees. Well the guy who was one over the weekend had not been given the correct papers so I was told to come back on Monday and he did not see any point in me paying a bond on the key so that did not happen. In the end it was a cheep stay as on Monday I did do the paper work but have yet to be charged for the stay.
Why was I in Batemans
Bay, I hear you ask? Well I had often driven through it while studying at the University of NSW in the early 1980s so I wanted to see the Bay from the waterside. It is a very beautiful bay with lots to offer the small boat owner. It does not, however, have any good all weather anchorages so not as good from a cruising point of view. Also, it is the closet point for people I know in Canberra to come visit me, thus it was largely a social call. Batemans Bay marina was the coldest place on this leg of the trip, by far, but not as cold as Hobart.
In the end I only had a visit from a former Greenpeace colleague Trevor. Unfortunately the people in Canberra were either sick or too busy to get to Batemans Bay, such is life. Anyway, it was really great to catch up with Trevor.
Although while in the Marina I was visited by a couple from another yacht as he remembered the name Hakura from Tonga. We had several minutes of confusion as neither of us remembered each other until he asked
if I had been at a talk on whales. I said yes, I gave it, then the pen dropped for both of us and we remembered talking together after my talk. It was weird to have somebody remember me but not recognize me.
On June 22, after a bit of fresh food restocking I headed out into Chains Bay, on the northern side of Batemans Bay to wait the passing of the northerly winds. Chains Bay is a very pleasant bay and I spent a relaxing afternoon and night there. The next stage was a short hop around to Beagle Bay in Durass Waters (which is where Trevor lives). On the way into this anchorage I was watching a whale inshore of me and thought that it might have been a southern right whales, though did not get a close look so not sure.
The southerly was due to arrive on the 24
th so I was up early and headed out to be offshore ready for the wind (05:10 is written in the log would you believe) and get the 50 nmile leg to Jervis Bay finished before sunset. The wind did not really
arrive so we motor sailed into light headwinds to Jervis Bay. To add to the fun an Australian Navy vessel was undertaking exercise with their chopper so we were occasionally the subject of some low passes. All part of the service I provide for the Australia armed forces. Arrived in Jervis Bay at 14:53 and moored in the southeast corner, same location as on the way south 6 months earlier.
The next leg was one of the longer ones being from Jervis Bay to either Port Hacking on the southern side of Sydney (about 70 nmiles and maybe 15 to 17 hours) or into Port Jackson (i.e. Sydney Harbour at 90 nmiles and 18 to 22 hours), whichever, a long day. I decided on the Port Jackson option because though it was longer by four hours Port Jackson would be easier to entre than Port Hacking. The plan was to do an overnighter and arrive off Sydney Heads just after sunrise. Anyway that was the plan.
As I headed out of Jervis Bay at 10 there were several whales off Perpendicular Head. I ended up passing close to at least three humpbacks with another
three further offshore. As the day went on I was often surrounded by up to six humpback whales. Not sure if they were the same animal or not.
As the day, or should I say evening, progressed it became clear that I was making better speed that expected and was likely to arrive off Sydney Heads in the dark. As I approached National Park (the world’s second oldest national park) I decided to head into Jibbon Beach on the southern side of Port Hacking. For those who know Cronulla in southern Sydney they know this beach as the nudist beach. I am sorry to say when I arrived a 1 am there were no nudists to be seen. Also not to be seen were the hoped for moorings so I dropped anchor and had a few hours sleep. One of the main reasons for heading into this bay was to pick up a mooring before the moon set.
Next morning the wind was a little northwesterly making Jibbon Beach not the best anchorage but no trouble. Just start the motor and pull up the anchor and off we go. Spring Bay, which is just
inside North Head in Sydney Harbour, here I came. Some may remember in the blog about the trip down to Hobart how the gearbox started to fail in Bermagui Harbour and it was fixed in Hobart. Well as I was trying to head out of Jibbon Bay, it happened again. The gearbox took several seconds to go into forward. It felt like minutes if not weeks, but finally Hakura had her forward gear working and we were off. Bugger, I was “not happy Jan”.
In part to makeup for this, just next to me I spotted three humpback whales heading out of Cronulla Bay. They stayed alongside for several minutes and where insight for an hour as we made our way north towards the tropics.
I was still going to go into Spring Bay and on Monday I would ring the Beta dealer in Sydney and find out who could fix my gearbox. A good plan and this time one that worked.
You may have noticed that there is an interesting phenomenon that occurs whenever I am entering a bay or Harbour. Somebody rings me up. Usually it is
somebody from NSW Marine Rescue to ask if I have arrived ok. This time it was my bother from mum’s rest home. I had a great chat with mum while entering Sydney Harbour. I had to keep track of about 20 other vessels; some fishing, others sailing (with very little wind) and big fast ferries. It all helps to keep us on our toes.
Spring Bay was a great spot and the weather was warm with little winds. The anchorage filled up over Saturday, then many went home and it filled up again on the Sunday.
On the Monday after talking to the local agent, I tested the gearbox by moving around to Manly Cove (the harbour side of Manly) where I could pick up a public mooring and do some food shopping. The gearbox took ages to get into forward. The plan was now for a mechanic in Pittwater (the large embayment north of Sydney) to call me. He did and on Wednesday morning (1 July) I was heading up to Newport, Pittwater, so he could visit Hakura on the Thursday. He offered me the use of his mooring in Newport
for as long as it took to fix the gearbox, a great service. He operated out of the Royal Prince Alfred Yacht Squadron and his mooring was in Crystal Bay.
I arrived just as the mid week yacht race was about to start so had a huge fleet of different yachts ranging in size from dragons up to ocean racers pouring out of the marinas and moorings. Quit a sight though I had to do lots of dogging and thankfully no stopping or reversing.
Crystal Bay is a shallow bay with a small tidal rise and fall so they have packed in the moored boats. I was on a mooring with between one and three metres beneath the keel. It proved to be a great place and very confortable over the next 3 weeks.
On Thursday the mechanic come out and took out the gearbox and next day it was sent off to a specialist to be assessed and hopefully fixed. Come Monday, the bad news was that it would cost more to fix than replace, so I started looking for a replacement. In the end the only option was to
replace it will the same model gearbox. We did look at using the next model up or even a hydraulic one but these would have required moving the motor, thus putting up the cost.
In the end the new gearbox was in place late in the afternoon on Friday 17 July. Yip pee, I am mobile again.
So what did I get up to for those three weeks? Well there were the frequent walks into either Newport or Mona Vale for shopping. Each included its own dinghy trip. The trip to Newport was the shortest but there were fewer shops. Mona Vale was more interesting and better exercise.
There were also excursions to see friends from 35 years ago when I lived in Sydney. The first person I caught up with was Sandra Walker who still lives on Scotland Island and remains full of life in her very busy style. This involved a trip in EII on Saturday 4 July of about 3 nmiles. Thankfully it was a fine warm day in Pittwater and I did enjoy being out and about. I did have to stay among the moorings so the
water police would not see me and ask about lifejackets and licenses. Again, it is all part of the game. I really enjoyed seeing Sandra again and connecting after all these years.
Next was Lindy Stacker, another Greenpeace colleague. This meeting did involve a bit of confusion about where we were to meet. I thought the Newport Arms and Lindy thought the Mona Vale Tavern. A few texts later they kindly came over to the Newport Arms and we headed into Newport and had a great lunch on the beach. Another great catch up, thanks Lindy.
Now one of the big issues still facing me was finding a crew for the trip north. There had been several possibilities on the Find-A-Crew web site and I had gone back to them once Digga and Soph were leaving. One was Fred a young French lad whose profile said he was in Sydney. Well it turned out he was actually in Southland NZ and would not be in Australia till about the 19
th of July. Initially I was peeved as he would have been great to have crew after getting to Sydney to give a hand for
the long legs to Brisbane and beyond.
Now you will have released that I was stuck in Sydney and it was getting closer to the 19
th. After some email traffic, Fred arrived (via airplane, train and bus) in Newport on Sunday 19
th and was brought on board Hakura.
Come Monday the 20
th we were ready to head off. North to the tropics or south back to Sydney to see the bridge and other harbour sites again? South won and we headed out of Crystal Bay late on the Monday for our first night just off Palm Beach to be ready to head down to Sydney for a couple of days exploring Sydney Harbour. The trip went well and we ended up mooring in Athol Bay next to Taronga Zoo. A great view of the city but no interesting zoo sounds. Not a great sleep with all the ferry traffic. Next day we headed back at the moorings in Manly Cove for a walk around Manly.
Well now comes a curious incident involving tea cups. As some of you will know I have a minor obsession about how my tea
is made. Oh alright, it is minor in the same way the Pacific Ocean is a minor puddle of water. Fred is a twenty something French man who drinks coffee either short black or long black. That’s OK; there is ground coffee and a plunger on board so he can have his coffee. After a couple of lessons he began to make good tea but then the unthinkable happened.
He used my fine bone china tea mug for his coffee. What was the world coming to? Well, we quickly fixed that. After a substantial wash my cup was ready, so I thought. But what is this, my tea tasted of coffee. And for several days my tea still tasted of coffee, or at least my mind thought so. Now there was no coffee left so either the cup retained the memory of the coffee or my mind did. I am personally going for the former, as there is nothing wrong with my mind. Really there isn’t, honestly.
As the next leg was a big one to Port Stephens and involved about 80 nmiles, we decided to do an overnighter, leaving Sydney Harbour just before
4 pm on the 22
nd. It was a good sail though the light winds stayed from the north instead of backing to the west as predicted. The main issue was the large bulk carries off Newcastle. There were lots of them, some were anchored along way off shore, in over 100 metres of water.
This was Fred’s first big sailing trip and he did fantastically. There were the usual issues about when to call me, yes when a large ship is that close, yes when the sails are all messed up, and no not when the moon comes up. Yep all the usual stuff, as many of you who have been following the blog over the years know.
I tell new crew the answers to all the questions I have heard over the years, many of which they have never thought of yet, though sometimes I think it might be better to wait for them to think of the questions. I am sure that most of what I say goes in one ear and out the other. Anyway, I just keep answering the questions as many times as it takes.
Anyway,
we made it to morning and found ourselves off the southern entrance to Port Stephens with a dying wind and no swell. A great run in, which included the customary whales just outside the entrance and dolphins inside.
We headed back into Nelson Bay with the aim of getting on the public wharf for a few days. No luck as it was full so we snuck into a marina berth to get water and headed back out for one of the public moorings just outside. As we tied up to the mooring one of the yachts left the wharf so it was back in we went. It was a tight fit as a small ferry was sticking out into the part we wanted to sneak past. No problems, we just walked Hakura round and now we are in one of the berths and could go and get an ice cream, yummy.
On the way north the main navigation lights had gone out. Well, when at sea you could not see if they were on but at the wharf if you put your eye right up against the light you could see that it was on. Anyway, not a good look where out with the big boats, so I asked the local chandlery and he gave me a name and a number. A quick call later and the sparky was either going to be here late Friday or, more likely, Monday morning. Monday morning it was and after replacing the LED port and starboard lights we were ready to go.
We had spent most of the time wandering around the little township of Nelson Bay. Small it was but I thought it was busy for mid winter. We even had a dinner in the local pub. A good flathead, chips with salad and a beer (albeit a ginger beer for me). We even did the bus ride to the big centre in the next bay for the usual supermarkets.
Two sights amused us, one with its frequency and the other just because. The first was that every day there were several bus loads of tourists arriving to catch one of the whale/dolphin/sight seeing boats that left from the wharf complex where Hakura was tided up. Many of these tourists were from Asia and every time that a new bus load gathered on the footpath (near the public toilets) several of them would take photos of the harbour, many as selfish. Nearly all of them took the same shoot and often on their smart phones or tablets. We called the place “Selfy Point” and were waiting for somebody to fall in while taking a photo. Luckily this did not occur while we were there (footnote – unfortunately a young woman from Asia did drown in Sydney after being swept of rocks while having her photo taken. Second footnote, on that weekend three people drowned around Australia and the media did not call for a cull of the sea or a stop to swimming – this only happens when sharks bite people).
The second was a sign near the playground that listed what you were not allowed to do. A photo is included here. We noticed that there was to be no archery though pistol and rifle shooting were not mentioned. Does this mean that they were OK? Why were they (the man) picking on archery. As I told Fred several times it was why the two finger salute came about – remember Agincourt 1415.
Come Monday afternoon (27 July) we were off the wharf and heading further into Port Stephens to a highly recommended anchorage in Fame Bay. There were the usual public moorings which were a big assert as the wind was stiff and coming right into the bay. Anyway we had a great night and mid morning on Tuesday we headed out of Port Stephens for Coffs Harbour, where my adventures in Australia had started in November last year.
Another overnight sail with south to west winds. We had a good run making better time than I thought we would. For the first 6 to 12 hours we appeared to have a tail current instead of the expected heading current. A currents don’t affect how Hakura travels trough the water, rather they affect how the water travels. Tail currents move the water with us so its speed is added to that of Hakura, while a heading current pushes water against us so reducing the speed of Hakura across the bottom, or over the chart. There is a major current running south past eastern Australia (call the East Australia Current) and it is what pushed me south in November and should have been slowing me down now. I suspect that there where large eddies with counter currents inshore of them. Anyway, we were making much better time than I had estimated. We arrived (Wednesday 29
th July) in Coffs harbour about 12 hours ahead of my ETA and finally got into our allotted berth. Hakura would not turn her head into the berth until I had become slightly pissed off. One of the local yachties was there to help and keep telling me to stay calm and all would be alright. It did actually help. I did thank him.
We had a good look around the township of Coffs Harbour Jetty and even walked into Coffs Harbour for a visit to the big supermarkets. I did also find a very good book shop – Discount Books, which had several books I was looking for – Raising Steam a new Discworld novel, The Word for World is Forest, a Ursula Le Guin book (in which part of the movie Avatar is based on) and The Last of the Mohicans, another great read. And I have managed to have read the first two and reading the third at the time of writing this.
Our stay in Coffs was to refuel, get fresh food plus catch up on sleep. All that was done by 3 August and we headed out just before midday. The weather was fine with a moderate southerly that was due to move around to a south-westerly. The wind was very light to start and we had a quite motor sail through the Solitary Islands. An interesting name for a group of 5 to 7 islands spread over 30 or 40 nmiles of coast.
We saw lots of whale activity and some dolphins. Many flipper slaps, several breaches, some close to Hakura. Once we had to change course for one whale that decided to do his thing right in front of us. Just another day in the office of Hakura.
The wind did stiffen over night and I suggested that Fred might like his wet weather gear as the clouds were very dark. Not long afterwards he was outside in a very heavy downpour. I was in my berth and very dry, hee hee.
Now when we were about to leave Coffs Harbour I talked with a local skipper who was about to head to New Caledonia for some remote surfing. He said he used the Southport Seaway and takes the inside route through the sheltered waters inside South and North Stradbroke Islands. Well he made it sound a breeze so I thought, gee why not. Thus midday on 4 August we entered the Southport Seaway and had no difficulties with the bar and anchored in Bums Bay, just near SeaWorld.
We had made it across another bar (albeit a very deep one with no sea running). And no, I am not becoming an expert. I was still concerned about the bar at the southern end of Fraser Island. That one is not a simple bar.
After a good night’s sleep we were ready for the inside route having worked out the timing so as to arrive at the shallowest part near full tide. It was a sunny warm day as we motored past The Broadwater and Sanctuary Cove. Boy are there some big houses there, more like hotels or chateaus, according to Fred. We were among mangrove forests with many sea eagles and ospreys overhead.
As we approached the shallows just before Jacobs Well, all was going well, though the handheld GPS was showing us on the wrong side a channel marker, which we were very clearly on the correct side. We touched bottom a couple of times but Hakura did not stop, she just ploughed on. Some of the touches where in areas that were supposed to be deeper, such is the nature of these waters.
Just over halfway through when the tide was supposed to have changed and would be against us we tided anchoring in the location mentioned by Alan Lucas’ cruising guide. But there was no island and we could not get a hold so up anchor and we continued to the north. I did not notice any effect of a counter tide so maybe I was a bit out with the tides the whole way.
In the end we picked up a mooring off Karrogarra Island. Then we noticed the tide as it was against the wind so that Hakura was sitting side on for some of the time, as were many of the other vessels on the moorings.
It was an interesting day of motoring among the mangroves (not a crocodile to be seen) but we did see some interesting “boats” or maybe more correctly “houseboats”. One was a shad on a boat hull, another looked like the flight deck of an old aircraft stuck on a hull. This one I though I could at least play at “Lost in Space” though Fred did not like that one at all. We doubted that any of these “boats” actually moved but where the bloke’s shad and they would be great at that.
We had now entered civilization as there where passage and car ferries everywhere and often. A couple of times I did three sixties to allow the ferries to go first (and also have them show me the channel). The latter was of limited use, as some of the passage ferries seem to draw very little and often went over mud banks, sometimes at speed. Oh, the joys of a shallow draft and local knowledge.
Next day we entered the southern end of Morton Bay and headed onto Manly Boat harbour were we had a booking with the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron. This marina would not have usually been my first choice, however, it had been recommended and proved to be a great place to stay, re fuel and get fresh food. And as it happens, to also get the gas stove fixed.
Well I was are back in Brisbane, it was only 36 years since the last time I had arrived in Brisbane by yacht. In 1979 I made a crossing of the Tasman Sea in a 28 foot yacht called Rebels Riser built and skippered by Owen Smith (with the able crew of Trevor). That was my first and only ocean crossing until I helped sail Ianthe to Tonga in 2010. It was the only time I had sailed in Queensland waters and I was interesting to see if I could remember enough to see any changes.
Again, one of the main reasons for stopping in Brisbane was social as I had family (my mother’s brother Dave and his family) and some mates, so the internet invite went out saying that we were here and come on down for a cuppa.
David and Glenda did come on down on the Sunday and we had a great afternoon tea in the Yacht Club followed by a walk out to see Hakura. Much to my surprise (and I think theirs) they both wanted to come aboard and managed to do so. Oh if I am so mobile when I am in my eighties. It was a great visit and I am very please to have been able to show then around Hakura. They did say all the right things so I let them get off again.
Sunday evening we had a flying visit from Aaron, a sailing friend from Tonga and some of his friends. As usually it was a whirlwind affair, and a great catch up. They were able to give me some useful advice, thus we stayed in the marina a couple of days longer and took the train into Brisbane city rather than the long trip up the Brisbane River.
Monday was restocking day and Tuesday was the train ride into Brisbane. An enjoyable day, though it did start slow as we arrived at the train station at the same time as did the train thus the crossing gates closed and we were stopped from catching that one. Thirty minutes later we were on our way.
On Wednesday, Fred had one of his few solo days as he went back into the city to get a part for his Gopro (small video camera). He ended by getting a whole new underwater housing for it, which looked a much better than the previous one.
I stayed on Hakura waiting for the Gasman to come and fix the stove. The right element had stopped working. He certainly knew his stuff and had both elements working like new in a couple of minutes. Money well spend me thinks.
Now came the next big issue. Do we continue up the coast by day trips hoping between ports or just do one trip of several days. As the day hopping option was likely to take another month to get to the Whitsundays and we both wanted to reach the tropics and go swimming (but not at night and in the mangroves with a dog) the big jump was decided upon. This leg would cover 550 nmiles and should take about 4 and a half days. Our longest leg so far. Another advantage of this option is that we would be going past Fraser Island on the outside and not taking the inside route that involved crossing the Wide Bay Bar. The only other bar I have crossed in a yacht before this trip and that was in 1979. So it’s all upsides then.
We headed out of Manly Boart Harbour at 11:20 on 13 August with a light southwesterly meaning more motor sailing. Morton Bay is quite big so it was not till 1600ish that we were across the bay and near Morton Island. It was a smooth trip with nothing much happening until my watch at the northern end of the island. We were taking the northern channel, which the charts, the cruising guide and hand held GPS all said was clearly marked and OK. Well, what they did not say was that the sand banks shift and the major channel markers are moved accordingly. I discovered this when I noticed the channel marker that was supposed to be off to starboard was actually off to port. What should I do? Stay on the planned course or change to match the marker. Now, with hindsight I would change to match the marker but as I had nothing to indicate where the main channel was after the marker I stayed on course.
Slowly the depth beneath the keel got less and with it my confidence, so I slowed down Hakura and we crawled along as the depth got to about 5 meters. This is still a useful depth but for several minutes it was not clear if it was go to get shallower or not. Finally the depth began to increase and I was able to increase the speed and relax some more.
I’m glad that I was on when this happened as one f the features of inexperienced twenty something crew is that they don’t necessarily see such changes and if they do they don’t see them as a problem.
I could now settle into our four hours on and four off watch system. Yep, you will be saying that last time we used 3 hours on and off. That system meant that we were on the same watches every 12 hours. The 4 hour system did mean we had different times over 24 hours but not the rolling system of 3 on and 6 off. Such is life.
Over night we sailed up past the Sunshine Coast. The scene of much fun during our stay in 1979. By 20:00 hours on the second day we were off Sandy Cape the northern tip of Fraser Is. This was the site of a little excitement as Fred had found that our route pasted between two reefs so we moved further off shore to go well around them and we both did a more in-depth walk of the route line. We still had large bulk carriers passing us though we did not see any other sailing vessels. There were the usual pods of whales travelling along with us though most appeared to averaging about 4 knots so we usually overtook them.
During daylight we trolled the line out the back but to no avail. We did not see many birds or dolphins from here on north, for which I continue to be surprised about.
The weather stayed clear and got warmer each day and we entered the tropics at 20:00 on the second day by crossing 23 degrees and 10 minutes South. It was good to be back.
Next morning a major disaster occurred. Fred gave me the hand held GPS saying it was out of batteries. But I had only changed them during the night. After changing them again, I discovered that it had stopped working. Oh shit, it had our intended route and all the charts from here to Airlie Beach. I did have some oldish paper charts for the second two thirds of the trip but none for our present location. There was a full set of Australian charts on the laptop so out it come and they were called up. After several hours of trying to guess our position and positions of several waypoints I discovered that the position of the curser is displayed in Latitude and Longitude so I could read off the waypoint positions, which was much better. We did have an older hand held GPS that had done great work around Fiji and Northland a few years back and after a few false starts it was working. But it did not have any built in charts so it would need to be a joint effort of the old GPS and the computer charts to ensure our route was rock, reef and island free.
All this time the main ship’s GPS was working so we knew where we were, just not where everything else was. During the day this was no problem but at night only a few major islands have lights. This is no problem with charts, even old ones.
On inspection it was discovered that there was water inside the hand held GPS. I pulled it apart and it spent the next 24 hours in a box of rice (actually it lived in the box on and off for the next few days). The first few times we tried it and it started but would stop again. Over time (after longer in the drying box) it began to work better and now is basically working though if you tap or drop it too hard it turns off.
During the day we had an Australian Customs aircraft fly over the top of us. I had heard that along the reef this was a frequent event and usually you are asked lots of questions about the vessel, its crew and destination. This time we did not have time to turn on the VHF radio and the aircraft did not circle to indicate that they wanted to talk, so I guess all was well.
The first big test came during the forth night at sea when we were due to pass through the Percy Islands. When developing our route I had been following the recommended route on the chart. Off the Shoalwater Bay area is the Northumberland Isles, which include the Percy group. Here the recommended route passed either just north of the Percy Islands and involved a little dogleg between a couple of islands or outside all these islands. Yep, I had followed the inside route because it was shorter. Well with hindsight I should have changed the route to go outside the islands but I didn’t. Anyway I asked Fred to wake me 20 minutes before the first turn and I would help he through the three changes of course involved. He said yes and off to sleep I went.
Now just a small aside on working with people in another language than their own, and Fred in particular. Before I start, I need to say I am completely mono lingual and have no ability to learn other languages even in the short term and I am deeply impressed at people who can. Fred’s English was great and adding to his challenge I am a Kiwi thus talk fast and I also use a mixture of NZ and Australian colloidal sayings making my English challenging at the best. He did later admit that sometimes he would listen for a major phrase and guess the rest. This often meant he missed the qualifiers in the sentence, such as “soon” “shortly” or “20 minutes before”.
Well he woke me just before the turn and I must have been asleep because I came up very confused about where we were heading plus I did not have the usual help from the hand held. After a couple of erroneous course changes I decided to turn off the autopilot and hand steer through the changes using the chart and the lights on several of the islands. An hour later we were safely through the dogleg and back on track. On with the autopilot and back to bed for another hour.
Next morning we were sailing past some islands heading towards Airlie Beach, however, it was still nearly 12 hours away and we would arrive during the night so I decided to anchor at one of the local islands and slowly make our way into Airlie Beach.
The selected anchorage was Refuge Bay on the northern side of Scawfell Island. We dropped anchor at 14:00 on 17 August, after 503 nmiles and 98.5 hours at an average of 5.1 knots. As we were coming in a Queensland Marine Parks vessel arrived to do a beach and toilet check. Afterwards I called them on the VHF and asked about the likelihood of crocodiles in this area. Fred and I were very glad to hear that there was very little chance of any saltwater crocodiles in the outer island here or in the Whitsundays but around the inner islands and more so along the mainland coast there was a real chance.
It turned out that the ranger was from New Zealand and could tell me that the All Blacks had very comfortably won the second test against Australia, though he did not know the score. Yep pee.
We were able to call VMR Mackay to get a weather forecast, the first since passing Mooloolaba, just north of Brisbane. Interestingly Australia does not have a national marine radio network that is available fulltime. Often the job is left to volunteer groups such as Volunteer Marine Rescue (VMR) in Queensland, NSW Marine Rescue and Tasmar in Tasmania. Thus I have not been able to get regular weather forecasts and often have had to get them off other boaties. This would become a small issue in a few days, but more on that later.
We were now just south of the Whitsunday Islands and within easy reach. No need to hurray we would be there well before Lorraine was due to arrive in mid September. So we started the good old island hopping.
Our next anchorage was Goldsmith Island, just north of Brampton Island. I was last here in 1979 as Goldsmith was the end point of the famous (at least in Rebel Riser’s lunchbox) Brampton to Goldsmith Island cruisers yacht race. Whilst Owen and I were not last we did arrive in style under a full spinnaker, which we dropped and then did a couple of 360s to loss all speed and drop anchor. Perfect and an arrival we wont repeat because it worked once and once was enough. Plus we were a little bit drunk.
Next stop was Thomas Island, the first of the Whitsunday Islands. Another great spot though not a great night’s sleep due to a very avowing roll. So far we had had short swims, more dips at each anchorage because the water temperature was not very good, 23 to 24 C. Thomas Island water was warmer, just, but we still only jumped in and out again.
The water was not very clear either. This is reported to be due to the large tides that effect this area. They are in the region of 3 to 4 meters. The cruising guides say that the northern Whitsundays have clearer water due to their smaller tides (2 to 3 meters).
At this stage, I was feeling a bit disappointed as the area did not appear a patch on Fiji and Tonga for water temperature and clarity. We would need to see about the coral and fish life when we have done some snorkelling (in the next blog).
Next day we moved closer by heading to the southern end of Shaw Island. Still no radio coverage and no mobile coverage either, thus not able to let people know we had arrived and internet to get the weather.
After a good night’s sleep I thought it was time to head into mobile range and text people to say we were here and safe. So we headed to Airlie Beach, a run of 26.3 nmiles which with the good breeze should take us about 5 hours.
So off we head, enjoying the last sail of this leg whilst having at least one cup of tea on the way. We were heading into a lumpy sea as the tide is rising thus setting south and the wind was from the southeasterly. This combination makes for a lumpy sea everywhere in the world. To add to the fun it was one of the big races in the Hamilton Island Race Week. It looked like the whole fleet was out from the super fast trimarines followed by the only just slower catamarans and large monohull, then the rest of the fleet tacking into the headwind. I managed to motor sail through the whole fleet but was not able to cause anybody to change course. I remembered that this is what I had told Aaron I would do when back in Brisbane he had mentioned the races. His eyes were alive with the idea of racing yachts, a real speed fan. Very much unlike me.
We had made it to the inner passage of the island I thought I should check for coverage. Yep it was there in patches and I had texts and missed calls. Quite a few were from VMR Mackay and Brisbane water police. It appears Hakura was again a vessel of interest.
It transpired that Lorraine, having not heard from me, had rung the Queensland Police and then VMR Mackay asking about us. Luckily we had talked to VMR Mackay for a weather forecast so they had us on their log and thus everybody knew we were here somewhere.
After texting Lorraine, and the others I usually text, and talking to a nice police officer in Brisbane and to the duty controller at VMR Mackay we were no longer a vessel of interest, bummer.
There was also a text from Joe, a young German guy sailing his 27 footer solo around the world. We had first met in Tonga and then several times in Fiji and lastly in New Caledonia. He was in the Whitsundays and heading for Airlie Beach. Great so we would be able to catch up.
The final run into Airlie Beach was smooth and uneventful. Now were to park? The options were in the marina but that would be expensive, on a mooring but who to talk to and just anchor but where? Oh the pressure of a skipper. Well what I did was my usual of looking for a mooring and then ask people afterwards. The first mooring was all chain and I thought it must have been for a very charter big vessel so dropped that one. Next was a rope mooring with the initials Y.C.A. and as I had no idea what they were for we used that one.
Three days later I found out that they are for Yacht Charters Australia so we left that one ASAP. Oh yes I am currently sitting on a all chain mooring organised through the Whitsunday Yacht Club, so we learn.
Joe called around after we had been there for a few hours and were about to go ashore (after a warm freshwater shower – oh the luxury). It was great to catch up and get some information on Airlie Beach and the islands.
Airlie Beach basically consists of two streets with bars, restaurants and booking agents for “fun things to do in the Whitsundays”. The rest appears to be holiday apartments and resorts. Though they do have a great new Woollies supermarket and we did have several good meals.
We meet up with Joe and another skipper in the local Whitsunday Yacht Club and had an interesting time, largely discussing navigation apps for smart phones and tablets.
Afterwards we wondered around looking for places to end. Finally we found one that was still open, just. After our meals I had to explain to Joe (German) and Fred (French) that “quit good” was taken to be less than good. They both had enjoyed their meals and told the waiter to tell the chief it was “quit good”. Neither picked up on her strange tone when she said she would. After I had had my little talk we agreed that “very good” was the thing to say and she when off happy and said that.
So ends the trip past over 1600 nm of Australian coast, past two of Australia’s major cities where lots of people live (somewhere between 7 and 8 million in and around Sydney and Brisbane). The weather has certainly got warmer, as has the water temperature.
I enjoyed most of it, not the losing of crew to start with or the need to replace the gear box. It has been fun travelling with Fred and he has been a willing crew mate. Now it is time for a slower pace around the island and get in some snorkelling and maybe even some fishing, So till the next blog, I hope you enjoy this one and have a great life. It is all we have, so make the most of it.
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frances
non-member comment
great blog
again you've written a fascinating account of your adventures. Our good friends Bruno and Lesley Mcdonald live in Jacobs Well! our family had a great holiday there when girls were young. we hired a houseboat for a few days with them too. Fun catching crabs off back of boat!! Nana enjoyed your chat. And am sure she will read and reread this blog. Have a lovely time with Lorraine and send us a photo(landscape way) for nana!! cheers to you. All good here with us:)