October and a change of travel direction

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October into November with changes in directions.



We head across from Winton to Boulia 364 kilometres away, so we can go up to Mount Isa then across NT to west Australia.

On the way is Middleton population 3. You can stay opposite the hotel for the night, Its an old Cobb & Co horse change stop , back when there were no cars. 1915. All thats left of small town is the hotel, we pull up but dod not stay , we go on to a rest stop in the middle of no where and it had flushing toilets , big surprise.

Between Winton and Boulia was 9 horse change stations and the 364 kilometres back then would take 4 days . In 1895-1915 they carried mail and passengers.



Off course we were alone all along this road , we maybe saw one other car that was probably a cattle station car, it looked like a farm car, and a couple of trucks . The road again is only a single strip of bitumen, its hot and dry.

We get to Boulia population 480 and 240 klm away from northern Territory border.

Its the place of the “ Min Min “ lights, camel racing, and the best preserved skeletons of Plesiosaur , ocean living dinosaur from 100 million years ago when all this area was an inland sea called Eromaga sea..

Just outside town before getting to Boulia there is the area where the Min Min hotel stood. It was burned down in the early 1900's and since then tales of strange lights are told. The information centre in Boulia have a good show on these lights which people say they see, we went and watched the show when we were here a couple of years ago.

We stayed the night on the river behind the race course in Boulia. Not much water or much wildlife just emus and some snake tracks in the dirt. Camels in the paddock opposite track thats all.



We were going to stay the night in Dajarra on the way north to Mount Isa but after a few hours with lots of noise we moved out of town and pulled up on a flat bit beside the road.

Dajarra 148klm from Boulia was once the largest stock trucking depot in the world . Drovers would bring cattle here from as far away as WA. This is the most western train stop back then and the cattle would be loaded on trains to go east, until road trains started , then railway not needed.



From here we go to mount Isa 191 klm north with a population of 22,000.

Here we stayed in the caravan park for a couple of days to stock up for the trek across NT to Katherine, next stop that has larger supermarkets.

Mount Isa is a mining town for copper, lead, silver. While we were here we went east for the day to Mary Kathleen, an abandoned mining town then down an old mining road to Fountain springs. 4Wheel drive road we had been down before.

Mary Kathleen mined uranium from 1954 to 1984, named after the wife of the founder.

All the buildings were sold and moved from here in 1984 so all thats left of this so called ghost town is some concrete slabs where the buildings stood. Used to have police station , bank, school, church and shops and a population of 1,000. There is a big pit of the open cut mine.



Fountain springs had very little water in the pool at the bottom , we have yet to see lots of water here or the springs flowing from the top of the rocks. You can just see where the water seeps out of the rocks. Went fossicking while we were there but did not find anything. No gold or Tourmaline.



While we are in Mount Isa it rained which brought all the Gilbert's dragons out to mate, so heaps of males showing off with colour and actions and telling other males to get off their piece of land.



From Mount Isa we moved on to Camooweal, staying out at the free camp next to the river. Not much water but I did collect more Ribbon stone with lots of colour bands.



While we are in Camooweal we are in contact with the man in charge of the turtle research, and there still had not been any a definite go ahead. Its was still going through the West Australian parliament to sign off on its funding. So a big decision was made that we would not go all the way ,over 4,000 km, to Karratha on a maybe. If they could not say yes to us then we would head back to Victoria to see all the family. We were told to contact them as soon as we get back to WA in 2018 to see what projects we could join in with. Its a shame to miss out on tagging flat back turtles but maybe next year.

So now we are not going to WA , which way do we go. We decided to go to Birdsville and across the south west of Qld and see some places we have not seen and do some fossicking on the way. Queensland opal is different from Cooper Pedy , then there is a lot of other gemstones in SW of Qld and NW of NSW. The only thing is a great number of these roads are dirt or single lane strip of sealed and its the catchment area for filling Lake Eyre, but if it rains and we get stuck we have enough food and water on board for a couple of weeks anyway.

So we head back through Mt Isa and down road to Birdsville . The first day is a bit long as we are not stopping at Dajarra again so have to go as far as first rest area. Then its on through Boulia and on to Bedourie. Population 516 .

Here you stay beside the swimming pool which has a thermal spa pool and a cooled thermal mineral pool for swimming and laps. The key to here comes in the cost of staying next door with showers, toilets and free BBQs. Just have to hand over a deposit for the pool, which you get back when you hand the key in.

Well we get there to find information centre and council office closed and the pool. It is Sunday but information centre usually open. Note on door just park and pay Monday. We park ask at pub what going on and told the pool is closed for renovations. We find out on Monday ,the pool needed new pumps and some new shade above and the contract to do work was given back in June to a MT Isa contractor who latter went broke and they had been paid for the work. So Bedourie council need to get money back to get someone else to do the work. The locals have been trying to do some work as they are all not happy with not having their thermal pool and swimming pool. Its also getting to the hot part of the year where temperatures reach well above 40deg c. So locals not happy, nor were we we still had to pay full price but not be able to use any part of the artesian area. Only stayed the 2 nights. We had arrived around lunchtime and was looking forward to relaxing lay in thermal water.



So its on to Birdsville population about 700. . Here we stayed in the caravan park for $40 a night , a rip off.

Birdsville power is generated by geothermal artesian waters , steam from the water is used to provide 40% of the towns power.

We went out to Pelican point and I went for a swim in Diamantina river while Larry walked around looking for birds. Then we walked the area called “Two boys dreaming' . A walk set up by the local aboriginal people with signs and descriptions. Everything very dry but rain is coming they say.

Just outside of town is a stand of Waddi trees. Acacia peuce. There are only 3 stands of these trees left in Australia. Grows 3-4 metres and are remnants of the ice age, they grow 15 centimetres a year and most of the trees in this stand are 500 to 1,000 years old. The wood is very hard with its fibres so tightly packed it does not cut easily and does not burn.



Ok so now its a gravel road with some sealed one lane strips east. Fist stop is at Carcoory Ruins ,one of the first properties owned by Sir Sydney Kidman purchased in 1899. The ruins we have seen before so walk around the artesian spring area. There used to be a set up where the water coming to the surface went into tanks to cool before running into troughs for the cattle and people to drink. Now the water oozes out of the ground and runs into the creek area. A side bit has been dug out so some water flows into it and cools for the stock still in the area, The water as it comes out of the ground is too hot for us to put our hands in but the stock drinking area is cool.

We drive onto to our night stopping area at Cuttaburra crossing . 119Km form Birdsville. We are now in new places we have not seen before. This is a permanent waterhole on Eyre creek . It has 2 bird-hides set up. It looks a little stagnant to get in for a cool down. We have wild pig come down for a drink and at night a flock of Rainbow bee eaters settles in the tree close by. We have not seen so many together before. We have 2 geckos in the toilet and a noise of either a frog or gecko in the shelter beside us we can not find what it is. Just hear it.

Our next stop is Betoota 170km from Birdsville. Population 0 but there is cattle station houses just in sight.

Betoota is a ghost town , the only thing standing is the hotel and a sort of horse track as they hold races and gymkhana here twice a year. These are part of the Simpson Desert racing Carnaval.

It is 70mt above sea level with annual rainfall of 300 metres. In 185 this was a government run customs post to collect tolls for stock travelling south . It was on the Cobb & Co route and had 3 hotels a police station post office. The last hotel kept running until the publican left in 1997, he had been here over 40 years most of the last 10 years on his own.

On one trip to get supplies he was stranded in his truck ,after rain ,on the Birdsville track for 18 weeks .

On the way in here on the side of a hill is a Dreamtime serpent that represents pathways travelled through country to connect the river systems. It is created using gravel and gibber rocks found here.

We stayed on the river banks and had horses visit us , otherwise it was only us.



We headed towards Windorah population 80. On the way came across workmen laying a strip of Bitumen, all these road machines in the middle of no where , it was strange to see.

Windorah has on the edge of town 5 very big solar collection dishes that provide town with daytime electricity. This was the first place in QLD to do this.



We stayed 10km east beside the river or cooper creek. It was called creek because at the time when it was given its name it had no flow . Yes it flows when it rains as its still part of the collection area for Lake Eyre. I did have a little swim but it was very muddy getting in, I slipped and had to get in on hands and knees., but it was cool.

It was a very hot day and we work up to a very cloudy dark sky. We decided we better get out of there as the way in was just loose dirt. It started to spit rain as we were leaving .



As we headed for Quilpie it rained very hard making it a very slow drive. Lucky the gravel road had a centre strip of bitumen big enough for us and we were ok as long as we stayed on it or kept one side on it as we passed 1 or 2 cars and a truck going the other way. Within less then an hour the water was on both sides of this strip of bitumen and in places flowing across the road. Within 2 hours everywhere you looked was water flooding the plains. As we got closer to Quilpie the shire workers were out warning people and checking water levels. Where there was dry creeks there was now fast flowing flood water. We went through a lot with one deep enough for the road to be closed after we got through. Apparently they close the roads when the water rushing across is 0 .4 metre We intended staying in Quilpie to fossick , this ended up a little longer because of the rain and road conditions. Population 654 The water goes down quickly here so roads open next day just gravel roads and the side of roads very muddy. Its either drought or flood here.

We were going to stay beside the river in a very nice area of bush but that was out of the question so its in town we stay.

The caravan park has 3 artesian water spa pools of different temperature. Each is big enough for only about 6 people but I was lucky that each time I went in no one else was there. Even showers smell of this water like rotten eggs -sulphur. Its so good for your body. Some drink it but it goes through me too quickly. But my skin feels soft .



I got to go fossicking but it was still very muddy so we went for a walk along a walking track beside the river. We still sank into mud but one morning came across a large sand monitor who put on quiet a display for us . We got video and photos of him or her up on its hind legs making itself appear bigger and growling/ hissing at us . It was trying to chase us away as we found out it was beside its burrow. After we did not get scarred and run away it gave up and bolted down its hole in the riverbank.

We went to 2 lookouts and found a central bearded dragon on the road getting warm. I think it had warmed up well as it took off very quickly

Fossicking area has been been well and truly worked over, but it was worth a try. The opals here are Boulder opal and mostly shinny dark blue not cloudy or pale like cooper Pedy or Lightening ridge.

I checked a few shops thinking I might buy some opal containing rock. I found out I would not be able to cut them myself as they are cut with part of the rock still attached and polished. I do not have equipment or knowledge to do this. So I looked at already cut and polished pieces and got a big surprise. A piece of rock with a hint of opal in it ranged from $20 to $100. anything cut polished started at about $100 and up most pendants started at $200 so no I did not buy any I would keep looking further along the track at next places.



We had planned on going to Eromanga population 45 on our way to Quilpie but the road was closed because of rain. So maybe next time . We wanted to see it because of the fossils found here only a couple of years ago in 2014. They are of the largest dinosaur to be found in Australia named 'Cooper ' a Titanosaur 30 metres long in the body. ' Cooper's humerus weighs 100kg and is 1.5 metres long. Which places this dinosaur in the top 10 of the largest dinosaurs in the world.

They have also found new fossils which the palaeontologists say are of new species found in the world.

A new Eromanga Natural History Museum was opened this year 3km south of town housing lots of the fossils from the area.



So its on to our next town of Tompine population of just 2.

With back packers working in the hotel seasonally.

You are allowed to park anywhere in this area next to pub and the road. We walked the dirt roads for something to do , its very droughty area that will take more than the last few days of rain to look any good. All the sheep roaming around look poor so do the local kangaroos.

This stop is because unless you want to be driving all day you have to stop somewhere and this is on the way to fossicking areas for opals. Its hot and tiring driving anyway and we want to see the area.

So before we go to Yowah for the opals we will look at other places around here. Well within a couple hundred kilometres.

Thargomindah a little over 100km away was first town in Australia and the third in the world to produce hydro electric power for street lighting by using the water pressure from the artesian basin . 1891 they started drilling the bore to supply water to the town 1893 they found a good supply at a depth of 808mt and temperature of 84deg c. this gave steam to operate engine to give power. This was used until 1951 when it was replaced by diesel powered generator then in 1988 the town joined the national grid as more power was needed by the people. There was never any trouble with the artesian run generator and the only trouble with the latter diesel one was when the maintenance man got drunk and forgot to refill the generator, but since joining the national grid the town has had nothing but blackouts and it costs more.



We looked at the old plant but there was no display of it that day so we walked the river walk and then moved on. We thought we would stay out at Lake Bindegolly NP. You can not stay at the salt lakes but across from it is a camping area.



This is 55km from Thargomindah. It is 3 lakes 2 salt lakes- Bindogolly and Toomaroo and 1 fresh water lake called Hutchinson lake.

We got there to find we could not get into camping area , it was too wet, but we still walked around part of the lakes. You can only walk around 9.2 klm of it because its fragile area, we did not make that much as its dry. Funny its raines and there is no water here but across the road is too wet to get in. The notice board says that 1 year in 10 the lakes are dry try again another year and this must be the 1 year out of ten. We did find a skink we had not seen before

This all meant we had to drive another 170 km to are next stop of Yowah. We do not like long travelling but nothing else to do .

Yowhah the place I intended to go opal looking again. Population between 80 and 100 residents.

There is a free area to park with toilets and showers with a donation box for help with upkeep of town. Here we stay a few days fossicking and sitting in artesian pools.

The area I am allowed with my fossicking licence is between staked claims that have licences that allow machinery to be used. You never know if you will find something someone else has missed when digging or jump in a hole some one has given up on and find something We pull up and find two young men in a hole digging away with pick and shovel , like I have to do. They are staying same place as us and have been here for couple of months finding enough to feed them and keep them digging. They are working beside a fenced area of a mining claim that has a large digger turning the ground over. The opals here are found closer to the surface about a metre or so deep.

So I try a few already dug holes and dig a few myself. The young men shown me which rocks and soil types I am looking for that show that there could be opals there, I am told all the boulders could have opals but which do you break open. Each time I,m looking for opals Larry goes off walking looking for birds.

I find some opal containing rooks but I can not do anything with them but keep them to show everybody. I find a lady who cuts and polishes some for me at a price and sells me more of low grade pieces so I have enough for grandkids.

Its very hot work digging and my muscles hurt so its good back in thermal pools .

Its time to leave so what I have will do unless I find more at next place.



Eulo population 108

Stayed on the Paroo river.

There is a date farm here making date wine and has artesian mud baths. Lots of craft shops and opals

Artesian mud springs which is a natural not bore release for the hot water .

More fossils found here.



We left Eulo heading for St George for a service on the car. Intending to stop half way but road works put an end to this as we could not get in.

Cunnamulla population 1300, we have been here before. . We stop in Cunnamulla for shopping.

We were going to the Bowra wildlife sanctuary but they closed early this season should be open still for another couple of months. The drought in this area is really hitting and there is not much life around

So our next stop is Bollon well just out of town and you can walk into town.Most the people living here work in shearing sheds.

On the way here we stop for a sand monitor on the road we thought he was dead but he was just trying to hide laying flat. Someone should tell him you can not hide on a road you need grass and plants to hide in. We got him to move off the road, good job the road was not busy because most people do not even look just keep driving.

Then into St George for few days and service on the car. We stayed out at Kapunda tourist and fishing park because it was on the river and out of town. For $28 a night and you had to walk up hill 200-300 metres to get to showers and toilet , not really worth it . While here we went out to Beardmore dam and the people who run the water business out there have stopped you even walking next to the dam they say they are in the business of selling water not tourism. Did find another little skink though.



So we now have a road that heads down into NSW.

First up is Nindigully with the only business left is the hotel ,along with a few resident houses the

Camp alongside the river with a river walk . We went over and had dinner at the hotel on our first night there. The school buses come into here and exchange some students the older ones heading to St George and I think the younger ones go to Thallon the next little place south.



Thallon big silos you see as you enter with paintings on them . Camp beside them at the edge of town. They grow wheat chickpeas oats and cotton.

The second largest grain intake in QLD was recorded here in 2012-13 season.

We walked around the outside of the silo land to Barneys beach but very dry.

In town in the kids park is a statue of a big wombat





The last place in QLD is Mungindi so we stay here on the river a couple of days . A group of lacal aboriginals bring their kids down for a swim so I know its safe to swim so I get in the afternoons. We walk along the river in the mornings and into town across the bride. One side of town is QLD the other is NSW. Police station on both sides

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