Cape Fear

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DNA Codex Crystal Healing

As the coach pulled into Byron Bay my first though was how much like a claustrophobic version of Cairns it seemed to be. My opinion soon changed as I saw some major differences. The first advert I read (amongst hundreds of similar ones!) was: "DNA Codex Crystal Healing". I dont even know what that means. It just acts to remind you that Byron was once the 'alt' hotspot on the east coast, and to an extent it has remained so in spite of the increasing commercialism that people like me bring upon it! There is still an alternative slant on everything here. There are over 100 yoga classes a day, adverts for crystal healing and day trips to drug town Nimbin are everywhere. When I check into my hostel the girl behind the counter even tells me how the reciepts in my wallet are bad Feng Sui.

Anyone catching a Great White Shark should return it to the water

After doing some much needed washing I decided to speed walk up and around the beautiful Cape Byron which with any luck would prove to be a great sunset vantage point. Despite being referred to as a wilderness track the path was well paved, kindof a mini walking highway. In many ways the scenery around here reminds me of Cornwall - but with more sunshine than the typical British summer! A sign post above one of the tracks down to the beach reminded my that this is still big fish country: "Anyone catching any of: , Great White Shark should return it to the water". The image of a flip flopped aussie fisherman with a rod in one hand and a can of VB in the other trying to reel in a 20 ft shark kept me giggling til I reached my target - the lighthouse.

Of course my plan of being alone at a beautiful viewpoint at sundown was shared by about 50 other people. The sunset itself was nothing to write home about (although it seems thats what im doing....) but the headland gave great views out to sea (this is afterall Australias eastmost point).

I decided to take the 'rainforest' route down from the lighthouse to get away from the crowds with me becoming reclusive in my old age and all. My plan of course worked for one simple reason - a dusk walk through enclosed forest is a bloody daft idea to start with. Where every step needs to be taken looking for a step, but every step takes you further into darkness the balance between speed and care becomes quite important. I decide to put on some music, and as Led Zeppelin's Immigrant Song plays I hear something big, far bigger that a snake move over Robert Plants' distinctive 'Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah-aaah'. I saw it move too, just out the corner of my eye. Despite the fact that to the best of my knowledge Australia is not home to any Grizzly bears I still stepped up the pace, before I eventually broke out of the forest and onto the motorway style paths again.

Byron Bay is even more vibrant by night that by day. While all the action seems confined to a few distinct areas - these areas really are alive. Not just with punters - but a small army of buskers too. From digeridoos to electric guitars, from solo performers to small bands, and from talent to talentless everyone with a musical bone in their body seems to take to the streets at night. But not a tambourine in sight.

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