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Published: August 16th 2023
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The Coast Starlight run by Amtrak is the name given to the train which runs between L.A. and Seattle, covering much of California, Oregon and Washington state. It leaves Emeryville, near Oakland at ten o'clock at night, and all being well with no delays from the many freight trains which share the line, you should arrive in about 7.30 the following evening. The choice between a standard seat at 145 dollars and a sleeper at 600 was easy to make. The compartment was fairly modern, and as we boarded late, sleep was the main occupation for most of us. I managed to get a decent few hours, and awoke to the wonder of Northern California. Incredible forests and lakes, with The Cascade range of Mountains dominated by the spectacular volcanic Mount Ranier which was still snow-topped in mid July. Oregon was equally entralling, and could be fully appreciated from the completely glass- roofed viewing compartment where I spent many hours in the company of a variety of travellers like Bill from Bristol who was setting off on a 3 month cycling trip of the U.S., and Peter travelling up to his mother-in-law outside Seattle. The time flew,with mini stops along the
way in places like Portland, and when we finally pulled into King Street, your traveller was a little tired but not bowed. A cab brought me to my hostel in downtown Seattle on Pike Street, The Green Tortoise. My toes was acting up and one was less than thrilled by the room 3 bunkbeds squeezed together, with the prize of a top bunk. In absolute pain, I clambered up top, and dreamed on my previous luxury in New Jersey and San Francisco. It was the eve of the baseball Allstar game which was to be held in the Mariners stadium the following day. Town was full of fans from all over the country bedecked in their team's colours, and I managed to hook up with a few people. One was an ex-marine and his wife, and the other guy was actuall serving in the nearby naval base, and was having a few beers before returning to Naval Base Kitsap, across the sound from Seattle. The more you travel acroos the states, the more you understand the importance of the military in this country. Everyone has either served, is serving or has close family involved, and my views on U.S. involvement
did not surface over our few drinks. It was then back to my room to attempt the accent of my sleeping place for the night.The staff took pity on the ageing traveller, and a bottom bunk was secured for the next two nights. The Green Tortoise was passeable but I soon realised that my days of staying in a hostel would finish at the end of the trip. The next day I took a ferry across the sound/bay. Seattle is surrounded by many islands, and has a very fresh feel. There was disappointment to be had , as the only tickets left for the baseball game were priced at 300 dollars, and I decided to not take myself to the ballgame. Nirvana had changed my musical direction with the release of Nevermind, and other bands like Pearl Jam and Soundgarden had also hailed from the surrounds of this city, and I was determined to experience one of their old venues. The Crocodile featured heavily, and I headed down to experience some grunge in it's birthplace. Sadly the Crocodile was sold out so I had to settle for a gig in the adjoining Madame Lou-Lou´s. The music and buzz was good,
and I went up to the bar for a beer. Was chatting to the girl serving my beer, and starting telling her of my odyssey, and said part of the journey was discover the music of the city. Thinking nothing of it, I returned to watch the music. Suddenly the head of security was coming in my direction, and I started to wonder what I had done. H e took my wrist, and attached a pass for The Crocodile, and invited me to go the venue next dorr. My charm had worked once again, and I headed to watch some famous deathe metal band. On the way home I spied an Irish bar so I entered Kells Bar and Restaurant. Got a nice welcome and with a normal beer costing as much as ten dollars a go plus 20% tip, I was charged 5 dollars. Got into a conversation with Nate, with Irish and Jewish roots, he had served a number of tours in Iraq, had obtained a university degree but now felt that his current life as a barrista was not satifying his soul, and he wanted out of Seattle.
The next day I experienced The Pike Street
Market with the the most incredible selection of things taken from the sea, and plenty of other stuff besides. That evening I met up with my former neighbour from our childhood days in deepest north county Dublin, Niall and his lovely partner. We dined early in Some Random Bar, and the drove me to north Seattle where I planned to see some countyr music in The Tractor Tavern. Nice venue and music but the real' excitement happened after. As I was on my own, I had to get back downtown and as my interenet was still not working, I couldn't call an Uber so needed to find a bus. I found myself lost in a dodgy part of town, and once again the idea of becoming another statistic started to enter my vivid imagination. Eventually I found the stop, but entered into a conversation with a lady with full shopping bags, who offered me a smoke from her crack cocaine pipe, which I graciously refused. Boy was I happy to arrive back in The Green Tortoise.
The next day I visited the highly-recommended Music of Pop Culture , with exhibits from Star Trek to Nirvana to hip hop music.
A late flight to San Diego was next on the journey
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