Looking for Buckskin Gulch, it's the journey - not the destination

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Using Page, Arizona as a base, Alan and I are exploring the area along the border of Arizona and Utah. With Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument and Paria River Wilderness - Vermillion Cliffs National Monument within driving distance, we have plenty of choices.

After driving west on Highway 89 from Page, we stop at the Paria Ranger Station belonging to the Bureau of Land Management. On the way, Lake Powell and the surrounding cliffs provide a dramatic morning scene as the highway crosses from Arizona into Utah.

The lottery to hike “the Wave” has just ended when Alan parks the jeep at the ranger station. Only 25 people a day are allowed in this special area of Coyote Buttes in the Paria River Wilderness.

Alan asks one of the ranger volunteers about our options for other day hikes. She suggests taking Wire Pass to the confluence of Buckskin Gulch for a brief glimpse at the world’s longest slot canyon.

She says, “It’s not a long hike but well worth it. With the chance of storms this afternoon, I’d be out of there by noon,” pointing to pictures on the wall of a flooded canyon. They convince me of the dangers of Buckskin when rainwater begins to fall.

To reach Buckskin Gulch, we drive East on Highway 89, then turn South onto House Rock Valley Road. Our jeep bounces along the 8.4 miles of dirt road leading to the Wire Pass trailhead. Although 4-wheel-drive isn’t necessary, we’re glad to have it, especially in several washes that are muddy from recent rains.

Alan and I gather backpacks and camera equipment then start our hike. Unfortunately, we leave the hiking directions and GPS in the car.

The way is clear at first, alternating between a sandy trail and a wide wash. Already, I’m worrying about getting out before the rain begins as clouds hover overhead.

Wire Pass is also the staging area for hikers taking the Coyote Buttes trail to “the Wave” and both trails share the same path in the beginning. We come to a sign indicating a trail and take it, thinking that Buckskin Gulch will lead off it. At the trail log, several hikers ahead of us have indicated they are taking Wire Pass, so we assume this is the way. We are wrong.

The trail climbs higher and then crosses a small sagebrush-covered plateau before crossing another wash. Alan and I take our time, stopping for photographic opportunities.


At one wash crossing, we momentarily loose the trail until we see other hikers climb up and over a slick rock saddle.

“Oh, no,” I say. “I’m going to have trouble coming down.”

“It’s ok,” Alan says, “I’ll help you.”

My knees begin to tremble during the climb. The trail is hard to follow on the rocks. At the top, we traverse another hill. When I can manage to look at the view, it’s a photographer’s wonderland.

Coming to a level area, Alan and I stop to take it all in. The rounded red stone formations look like giant red ice cream cones. We also realize that we are on the hike to “the Wave” without any permit. It’s time to turn back.

Walking across the slick rock hill is just as scary the second time. Alan finds a different path down that’s not quite as steep. I breathe a sigh of relief when it’s over.

Returning to the car, we check the directions. We should have stayed in the wash for the hike to Buckskin Gulch. But, without the wrong turn, we would have missed some gorgeous scenery. In a land like this, it’s the journey that’s important, not the destination.

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