A visit to New York (2003)

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Welcome to America. Sept 2003


So, we arrived a JFK on a hot summer evening, after a fairly traumatic journey involving re routing and changing planes - and arriving 6 hours late. The first thing that hit us was the noise. The sound of aircraft and traffic - and loud voices. As we walked over to the taxi rank we heard a man and woman arguing over a parking ticket, at least I think it was a parking ticket. It seemed like the man thought he had received one unfairly and was trying to get it rescinded. Bad move! It ended up with him shouting at the top of his voice “Well f*** you lady!” and the lady in question returned the compliment by shouting just as loudly “And f*** you mister - you have the ticket not me” We looked at each other and said as one, “Only in America…!”, and both collapsed laughing!

First impressions count, and ours were that we were going to be overwhelmed by the sheer pace of the city. Although we did come to terms with it, everyone seems to be in a hurry, and 90% of them seem to be eating or drinking on the run. I think if we forgot everything else the things about NYC that we will always remember are the smell of food, the car horns and the police sirens. We got our taxi and had an extremely interesting ride into the city, emerging pale and shaking some 40 minutes later. I gave the guy a tip - I daren’t do otherwise, he would have probably run me over just for laughs!

As you can imagine we were pretty tired, so after checking in we drifted along the street (8th Avenue) to find something to eat. It was a deliciously warm evening, and the streets were crowded. We found out later that they are always crowded, but this seemed really busy to us. Eventually we found a little French restaurant, got a table by the open window and ate our meal just watching the world go by. I think that was the moment we knew we were going to love this holiday. Sitting there amid the hustle and bustle, the frantic taxis, the hurrying crowds, just eating our meals and people watching was great.

They call NYC the city that never sleeps, but they don’t say that it’s determined that you don’t either. We did get some sleep, but the New York lullaby of car horns made it tricky!


Day 1 Monday

The following morning dawned bright, clear and warm. We found a super place for breakfast called the Westway Diner. The people there were friendly and the helpings enormous. We made it our first stop for the rest of the holiday. We really had no idea of where to start on our sightseeing, so we decided to take a tour bus from just up the road from the hotel to get our bearings. This proved to be a very good move as we bought a sort of all inclusive ticket that entitled us to take all the tours and included admission to The Empire State Building and our fares to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, a steal at “only” $71 each. In actual fact they were good value and the guides were very knowledgeable, though each one took a different slant at things.

We decided to do the Downtown tour first and it was brilliant. It’s a good job we were on the bus otherwise we would have probably tripped over our lower jaws, as our mouths were open so wide in amazement! I have never seen buildings like this. I expected to be gobsmacked, but not like I was. The sheer size of some of the skyscrapers took my breath away. We left the tour bus at Battery Park and watched the busy waterway for a while before deciding to take the Staten Island Ferry.

Again we were surprised how big the ship is and wandered about watching the Manhattan skyline receding into the distance. When we got off at the other side we couldn’t find our way out of the ferry terminal, so we had a drink and got back on. Yes, in know it sounds pretty barmy, but we were enjoying ourselves and looking forward to the view on the return trip. I think this trip was the best value for money in NYC - it’s free!

We got back on the tour bus and continued the route back to the hotel. We had a short siesta then turned out for the night tour. Again we were not disappointed. The lights of Manhattan seen from Brooklyn are beautiful, like huge blocks of jewels standing on end, an unforgettable sight.

Arriving back at the hotel we had a cheap but substantial meal and retired to bed.

Day 2 Tuesday

As our tickets for the tour bus were only valid for 48 hours we had to squeeze a lot into a short time. We took the uptown tour this morning and saw a contrasting part of the city. It was altogether quieter, and a lot more “exclusive”; apartments here start at around the $1.5M and go up! We saw the Dakota Buildings where John Lennon was killed and many of the more expensive buildings.

We had a look over the wall into Central Park and resolved to come back and explore it properly. Something that neither of us took into account was how big Central Park actually is. I was under the impression that it was just a bit of greenery in the top half of the island and full of muggers and other undesirables, but it’s beautiful and HUGE.

We continued on the bus and returned to Times Square, - more of this later - before getting on to the Brooklyn tour from Battery Park. To be honest we were a bit disappointed with this. It was 2 hrs of the world’s worst tour guide (the only one we didn’t warm to) and the whole area was less than impressive. It was different, but we found it rather tedious. Of course being separated, Marg at one end of the bus and me at the other didn’t help, but there really seemed to be something lacking, or maybe we just didn’t appreciate it. Whatever, it was the only disappointment of the holiday so that speaks volumes.

We returned to the hotel and went exploring restaurants again finding food and entertainment aplenty.

Day 3 Wednesday

Today we had breakfast (Westway Diner), corned beef hash, 2 eggs, fried potato, coffee, orange juice (the orange juice being a sop to the health police), before making our way to the subway station. The subway is quite an experience in itself, the stations are vast and like London they serve several lines, so you have to be really careful which train you get on, as we discovered. We wanted to get to ground zero, and so we got a downtown train. I have to say it’s a very quick way of getting around but not my favourite form of travel. We got out and walked to the site. It’s no longer a scene of devastation, but one of rebuilding, and on a huge scale.

We then went on to see the Statue of Liberty. I hadn’t realised how far offshore it is and was a little surprised to see it as just being a small figure in the distance. You’ll see from the photos the weather was gorgeous, not a cloud in the sky and hot, I mean really hot, as we took the ferry out to Liberty Island. As we got closer you could see that the statue was immense. I got some great pics from the boat, but my personal favourite is one taken from behind the lady. Her head just covered the sun and it’s a really great silhouette. Unfortunately, since 9/11 the statue has been closed and there are no plans to re-open it, (this changed in 2005 sometime, we’re going to go back in a few years and check her out!) We were a little disappointed, but consoled ourselves that no one else could go up either. While we were walking around the front along the waterline we met another couple who asked if we would take their photo. Of course I did, and they took one of us.

We then caught the ferry to Ellis Island. You no doubt know the history of the island; it’s where most of the European immigrants came in during the major immigration boom at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. It’s a strange place. The buildings have been restored and are in pristine condition and the whole area is attractive, yet there is the underlying feeling of sadness for those who never made it to the promised land and were rejected as being too old, ill, or of “unsound mind”. I enjoyed the visit, and again the guide did a great job, but there is something about the place which I found quite melancholy. The main inspection hall had a staircase leading up to it from below. Every immigrant had to climb this staircase; not knowing that at the top was a doctor. He only had to see them short of breath after getting to the top for them to get a chalk mark on the lapel to mark them out for possible rejection. I wouldn’t have stood a chance.

Again we braved the metro and returned to the hotel. I haven’t mentioned the hotel yet, but it was great. Nothing fancy but clean and comfortable rooms and everything you could reasonably want. Our room was on the 20th floor, which was great (although of course Americans call the ground floor the “first floor”, which really makes in the 19th floor - if I wanted to be picky - which I don’t). I took a couple of photos from the room, which you’ll see presently. Later that evening we had the one really swanky meal of the holiday, in the revolving restaurant on the 48th (it was probably the 47th, but who’s counting) floor of the Marriott Hotel in Times Square. The lift shot us up there like a rocket, I’ll swear I was ½ an inch shorter on the way up. The meal was very nice, the view fantastic and the bill astronomical! But it was certainly a good night.



Day 4 Thursday Sept 11

Well today, Sept 11, was one of the main reasons for our coming when we did. 9/11 had a great effect on me, as I’m sure it did on anyone who saw those dreadful events. I just wanted to be here on this day to make my own small tribute, and I know Marg felt the same way. The weather was beautiful, just like it must have been on that fateful day. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and it was warm, almost hot. We arrived at the site at about 8.30 and found most of the streets closed. We were passed from pillar to post walking miles (literally!), before we found ourselves back where we had started out from. During this time the children of the victims had started to read the names. We managed to find our own way to a point where we could hear the voices. I have to say it was a most moving time. Little children who were obviously upset and nervous reading out the names. And there were so many, many names, and every one a person. Someone who until that day had a life, a family and a future. One person was there who had come from Korea. He had lost someone in the disaster and was wearing Korean mourning clothes, a sort of pale yellow cloak and helmet. The thing that impressed me was how he stood stock still, head bowed and simply held a picture of his loved one. I don’t know how he did it, but he never moved a muscle throughout.

It seemed to go on for hours. Each child (boy then girl) would read out their section of names in strictly alphabetical order and as they came to their own kin they would say “…and my father John Smith - we love you dad” or some such. I found it intensely moving, and I know Marg shed a couple of tears, it was just one of those occasions. I didn’t take any video, somehow it didn’t seem appropriate, but I took some stills of the flowers. The guys from the Salvation Army were there distributing bottles of water to anyone who wanted one. We suddenly realised how thirsty we were and that water tasted wonderful.

After it was over and the crowd started to wander off we went to have some lunch. Neither of us was hungry, but it just seemed like it was something to do. We had hardly spoken to each other for about 3 hours and I think we were both were lost in our own thoughts - I know I was. Lunch was taken at an open air restaurant (actually a hot dog stand) and was really great.

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering. I can’t really say where we got to we just walked around the old part of New York. We wound up in Battery Park, and saw the copper globe that had stood in the courtyard of the WTC bent and battered now in its special place in the park and all our memories. I took some pictures of this and the plaque in front of it.

Day 5 Friday.


Today we decided to lighten up a bit and that we were going to “walk the bridge”. The Brooklyn Bridge that is. Once more we braved the metro, but this time we knew we couldn’t go wrong, as Brooklyn Bridge is the last stop on this line. We got off the train and climbed the stairs to daylight, looked around and could not see the bridge anywhere. We wandered around not wanting to ask where it was because that would only make us (actually me) look stupid, and eventually saw it away in the distance. Then all we had to do was negotiate a way through the traffic system (system?) to the entrance. We did and enjoyed a super walk over it with breathtaking views of Manhattan.

You’ll know that the Brooklyn Bridge is a suspension bridge and, as such, has enormous cables stretching from one pier to the other. Well at the top of each pier the stars and stripes flying at half-mast for 9/11. As we were walking two men arrived and just got on to the cables and walked up them to the top of the piers to raise the flag to full mast. Now there are handrails on these cables, but one slip would be fatal and these guys didn’t seem to have safety harnesses, they just got on and walked. They climbed up the cables until they were just dots that you could just see moving. It gave me a whole new outlook on “walking the bridge”.

From the bridge it only a short walk to the South Street seaport, a sort of up market set of shops and restaurants by the waterfront. It used to be the main landing place for the Fulton St Fish Market, and, although it’s very nice, trendy and photogenic, I think the fish market served a better purpose. However that didn’t stop us sampling the local beer couple of times, then wandering round the shopping centre looking vainly for a loo.

It was still only early afternoon, so we decided to use our ticket to go up the Empire State Building. We set off on the subway again and by some happy chance got off at the right stop. We had seen the building earlier on one of the bus tours so it lacked it’s immediate impact when we saw it this time, but it is huge.

It towers over 34th street and has quite a history. When it was built it took only 18 months to do the job. It went up at the rate of 1.5 storeys a day at its peak speed. The building was pre fabricated and shipped in piece-by-piece and assembled on site. The lifts must be some of the fastest in the world covering the 86 floors to the observation deck in about a minute, yet they are smooth and comfortable. There must be some kind of accelerator and braking system on them because I was barely aware of moving, yet the floor indicator moves in 10s. You set off and the first floor you see is 10 then 20 then 30 etc and you arrive at the top so fast! The view is just incredible. I took some video, and Marg took some photos, but nothing can really do it justice other than being there. I won’t try to describe the indescribable, you’ll just have to see the pictures, suffice it to say we were both deeply impressed.

We walked back to the hotel and collapsed in a crumpled heap - totally knackered. Later we went out for a meal

Day 6 Saturday

Yesterday we had walked miles, we were still a bit footsore and weary, so Marg decided this was the best day to do some serious shopping. I’d been dreading this, but I knew there was no escape so I put on my best smile, said, “yes dear” in the appropriate places and we set off. First stop Macy’s. It was closed and did not open until 10 am. and, for the first time on the holiday it started raining - hard! I was only in my shirtsleeves and Marg in her blouse, but she had the foresight to bring her jacket with her (in MY backpack I might add), so she smiled quite smugly as I got soaked. When it eventually did open we went in. I’m trying not to be too repetitive, but I’m running out of words to describe places, Macy’s is huge, we never did get round all of it (but the only bits we missed were the interesting bits like hi fi, cameras and ladies underwear), Marg bought several gifts for the kids and so on. I suffered in silence.

I think we walked just as far inside Macy’s as we did the previous day and decided it was time for a drink. One thing I haven’t mentioned is what a fan I am of American coffee. It’s delicious, strong and dark, I love it and somehow we can’t make it the same over here. Anyway we found this self-service coffee bar and got ourselves a drink. I had a large one of course and as I was taking it from the machine the cardboard cup slipped from my hand, spilling the contents all over the floor. They didn’t seem too impressed, but they did clean it up while I got another one. Of course Marg pretended she had nothing to do with me while this was going on, until it came to paying of course…

In the afternoon it was still quite wet, and we were still footsore, so we went to the cinema. Loews cinema in Times Square is great, comfy seats that recline, a fantastic sound system and ideal for sleeping. Actually I didn’t, but I came close. The film was a right load of old tosh called Pirates of the Caribbean. I think it was an attempt at the old type of Errol Flynn movie, full of swashbuckling pirates and so on. Marg enjoyed it (I think she likes husky men in shirts open to the waist) and the heroine was good looking enough, all heaving breasts and tremulous voice, so I suppose it had it’s good points - a couple actually! I was just grateful for the rest.

The evening was spent just being awestruck at Times Square. The lights are amazing, I think even more impressive than Las Vegas, but they are more confined and concentrated. Again, coming from a small island like this we found the scale of things almost unbelievable. One advert has a car illuminated half way up a building - and the car is probably 4 times life size! We had a lot of fun just looking at the junk that the street vendors were selling (I bought a “Rolex”, my wrist turned green) and the shops that are open until at least midnight. One thing we did find though was the amount of junk that was being sold as souvenirs, they were just so tacky. We looked hard to find something that was “nice” to bring home with us, but couldn’t find anything. Several people were in fancy dress to be photographed with the tourists. I got quite excited at the thought of being photographed with wonder woman, all tight shorts and stars and stripes top, but Marg wouldn’t hear of it, she said it would do me no good at all. I begged to differ, but to no avail.

And so to bed.

Day 7 Sunday

We woke up this morning with no idea where to go or what to do. Still tired we decided to go for breakfast at the Westway and decide from there. After our showers I opened the curtains and looked out of the window. The weather was glorious, beautiful sunshine, not a cloud in the sky and warm already. In the distance I could see the East River and there, just docking was a floating city, a cruise ship. It didn’t look far so we thought we’d stroll down and take a look.

We had breakfast and set off. It wasn’t far to walk, just a couple of avenues over and we soon got there. We had the surprise of our life, there, docked permanently were an aircraft carrier, a destroyer and a nuclear submarine. They were all on open view so we paid our $14 and went in. I spent a fascinating time wandering round the hanger deck of the carrier (she was the U.S.S. Intrepid by the way), had a look at the mess room and so on before climbing up to the flight deck. You could play a game of football on this deck it was so vast. Quite who would go for the ball if it went offside I aren’t sure though! There were several planes parked on the deck and we had a good look at each. Marg made all the right noises, but I know it’s not really her type of thing, so we had a quick look around the destroyer and missed the submarine, as I ‘m not too keen on enclosed spaces.

We came out of the dock and were just in time to get aboard a circle line tour of the island. 3 hours in a comfy seat was just what the doctor ordered while someone else did the work. This tour completely circled the island, and was really interesting. We got some great pics from the water and saw the U.N. building. I heard something interesting about this. You must have seen pictures of the building and maybe noticed that there are no windows on the sides of the tower block. Apparently this is because the offices on the corners of the building would have had 2 windows in, and to avoid any petty jealousies they made sure everyone had only one window by making the end walls windowless. Yes, I know it’s trivia, but it’s interesting nonetheless.

At the north end of the island you can see the shores on New Jersey, and they are completely unspoiled. They are pretty sheer cliffs called the Palisades and the reason no one has built on them is because of Rockerfeller. He built a church in Manhattan and also imported brick by brick an Italian mansion to have it rebuilt overlooking the Hudson River. He realised that, at the rate the city was expanding, it was only a matter of time before high-rise buildings and roads and so on ruined his outlook. So he bought all the land as far as you can see, for several million dollars, then sold it back to New Jersey for $1.00, providing they never allowed any building on the land. It gives a little insight of how the land must have looked when only Native Americans lived there. It’s highly wooded, with sheer cliffs that look like they drop to the water. It’s really lovely and I would have liked to explore around there, but it was impossible. We arrived back at the dock and walked back to the hotel.

We had a quiet night just at the bar and went to bed.

Day 8 Monday


Monday was a dullish sort of a day, but very humid. We decided to do some exploring around Little Italy. We had seen just a tiny bit from the tour bus and it looked to be interesting, so we set off on the subway again. We were lucky; there was the celebration of the feast of San Gennero, going on. We walked the full length of Mulberry Street, which was renamed for the length of the feast period Via San Gennero. It was full of stalls selling anything Italian. There were Parma hams, sausages, strange vegetables that we wouldn’t know what to do with and of course T-shirts. Little Italy seems to be compressed now by Chinatown and we wandered back and forth as the mood took us. One thing I can say for NYC is that neither of us felt any kind of threatening atmosphere, in fact just the reverse. With very few exceptions we were welcomed wherever we went and Chinatown was no different. Although we were the only “European” faces we never had any problem at all. That was another thing we noticed. NYC is a very cosmopolitan city, but the races seem to just get along with each other. We saw black boys with white girls and vice versa and groups of kids with almost every race represented, all chatting and laughing - just accepting each other for what they are. I thought it was great. How I wish the world could be like that.

Chinatown is big. The largest in the world we’re told. I don’t know about that, but it’s the only place I’ve ever been where I could believe I was actually in the Far East. The shops, the street names even the neon signs (and there are lots) were all in Chinese characters. Some of the foods I didn’t like the look of and some of the stores didn’t look so clean, but my goodness they are an industrious people. Wherever we looked there was someone who was making money, whether it be the shoe shine boy or the shipping magnate. And the crowds!! It’s the old part of town and the footpaths are not as wide as the mid town. We were almost trampled underfoot and finished up just walking with the crowd. I took lots of pictures, but one sort of stands out in my mind. I can’t remember the street name, but there was a Buddhist Temple on it. The building started off as a Christian church, but as the Chinese moved in the Christians moved out and it became Buddhist. Now it has a 99cents store in the basement and along the balcony it has a large Buddha figure - that won’t go through the door.



Day 9 Tuesday

I mentioned Central Park in passing earlier today we went exploring it. There’s a wonderful song by Art Garfunkel called New York, and one of the lines goes something like “Central park - where they say you shouldn’t wander after dark”, well I can’t say anything about that because it was a lovely day again, hot and sunny. The park is massive and full of wildlife. We got the subway there and as we were climbing the steps (why are there so few escalators?) out it was nice to see some greenery. The buildings surrounding the park are some of the most expensive in the city, and John Lennon’s apartment was among them. I don’t know if Yoko still lives there, but security is very tight. I took the photo from across the street, as I didn’t want to get involved with the guards who would have made 3 of me.

We went into the park and found Strawberry Fields and looked at his memorial, then wandered as the mood took us. It’s lovely, and we got totally lost and it didn’t matter a jot. We walked miles around winding paths and across the little bridges hand in hand feeling almost like the young lovers we once were. The views from the park are wonderful, and the views inside it no less so. We sat and drank a bottle of water overlooking the great lawn. Marg was watching the squirrels, I was watching a girl in her bikini (I’m a man - we notice things like that) we stayed all day and, as I said we walked miles. We loved it and can understand why New Yorkers treasure it so much. I hope nothing ever spoils it.

Day 10 Wednesday

Our last full day, so we had to make the most of it. We went to Macy’s again and bought a few more odd and sods, then made our way to Grand Central Station. Once again it took my breath away. It’s like a cathedral. I never did get the shot I wanted of the sunlight coming through the windows on the main concourse, but I’ve seen it and that’s enough. We walked down a floor to the food concourse. It certainly made the old British Rail curly cheese sandwich look sick. There were food shops and restaurants as far as you could see, every type of food imaginable, and all beautifully displayed. I loved the place. The stonework looked brand new, and yet I know it was built in the 30s sometime. It was spotless. It was - well it was just great.

We had managed to get tickets for Mamma Mia on Broadway for our last night. They cost an arm and a leg, but we really wanted to see a Broadway show, and Mamma Mia most of all. If you ever get chance to see it - go. Don’t hesitate, put it on the credit card, grin and bear it. It’s the BEST musical we have ever seen. The songs are all there; Money Money Money, Dancing Queen, Take a Chance on Me and of course Mamma Mia. The whole theatre was up and dancing by the time the finale came along. It was a truly memorable way to end our holiday.

And yet it wasn’t quite over yet. We came out of the theatre and found Ellen’s Stardust Diner. What a brilliant place! The waiters and waitresses are all looking for a break on Broadway and they sing - and HOW they sing. These kids are wonderful, I never counted them but there must be about 8 or 9 and they take it in turns to wait on tables then do a turn singing. We had a good hours entertainment for the price of two cups of coffee. We came out there and went to the t-shirt shop we had seen earlier. Marg wanted to buy Dave a t-shirt we had seen earlier. The slogan? “I can only please one person a day TODAY IS NOT YOUR DAY tomorrow doesn’t look good either”. It’s just Dave’s type of humour, and mine for that matter.


Day 11 Thursday.

Well it was time to go. We didn’t want to in some respects, but home is a powerful magnet and we were ready. Hurricane Isabel was making her presence felt further down the coast and we were a little concerned as to whether we would be able to fly. Fortunately there was no problem, other than a late departure because of all the domestic flights leaving JFK and trying to beat the storm. Who could blame them it sounds like it was dreadful.

So we’re back. I have been asked a few times if I liked New York, my answer is “No - we loved it !!

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Photos

The Milton Plaza Hotel
Where we stayed, just your average budget hotel, clean and comfortable, no frill but in a brilliant position in Midtown

The Flat Iron building
One of NYCs first tall building and once (briefly0 the tall est building in the world

The woolworth Building
One of our favourite skyscrapers. The entrance hall is worth a visit just for itself!

The Statue of Liberty
Our first view fom the Staen Island Ferry

Statue of Liberty
Just a chance photo. The sun was just in the right position to get this sillhouette

Statue of Liberty
A more conventional picture with myself and my wife in the foreground

Ellis Island
A strangely moving place. It seems full of ghosts somehow

Me on Brooklyn Bridge
Enjoying the sun and warm!

Brooklyn Bridge
Running up "Old Glory" to full mast on Sept 12

Empire State Building
The view from the top!

The U.N. Building
The worlds biggest talking shop?

Strawberry Fields, Central park
A personal homage to John lennon

Our Hotel
Looking up at the Miton Tower

The dakota Building
Where John Lennon was murdered

Grand Central Station
The famous clock in the concourse