En Mass

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The only reason I’m on Cape Cod is to relax before enduring the Kafkaesque Gehenna that is international travel. I hate to bore you, but Cape Cod is as delightful as everyone says it is. And though the comfort of my current lodging is unparalleled, I can’t really recommend it to any random wayfarer -- I'm couch surfing with some friends (thanks be to Dorria, Chris and Zoe).

A few highlights of the Cape:

Sundae School, a popular local ice cream shoppe that served me a bowl of flavor so exotic I can’t even remember what it wasWellfleet Bookstore & Restaurant, probably the best raw oysters I’ve ever had (admittedly, I’m not much a connoisseur of oysters -- but then again, oysters are often served to you swimming in their own urine, so who gives a shit)A functioning drive-in movie theatre showing double features. Can confirm Men in Black 3 is not as good as the first one but better than the second one (see also: Ocean’s 11, 12 & 13), and that 21 Jump Street is - bafflingly - a good movie


No visit to Cape Cod is complete without a sojourn to Provincetown, according to people who don’t live on Cape Cod. Also referred to as “P-town” by locals (who maybe also call themselves “Cape-dawgs”?), it’s the hardest place on the Cape to get to by virtue of the fact that depending on where you start, you may find yourself driving northbound on Route 28 South. (Here goes: Imagine Cape Cod is the same shape as when my friend Eric flexes his left bicep; Route 28 South would begin in his sweating brow, then spiral past his shoulder and elbow and then back up into his throbbing fist -- which then punches you in the face for never having read Anna Karenina. Hence the confusion.)

My arrival in Provincetown coincided with a fairly consistent mist of cold rain, which meant I had the normally tourist-infested (infected?) town to myself. I can’t vouch for being here on a day with even one unchaperoned ray of sun escaping the clouds -- I’d bet it’s a swirling nightmare of pushy vacationers and extremely limited parking -- but as my Cape-dawg friend Cindy put it, this dismal weather should at least prepare me for my upcoming venture into the British Isles...

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Photos

Not lobster
These here oysters were apprehended from that very sea across the street.

The mythical "Drive-In Movie Theatre"
Artist's rendition of what the now extinct "Drive-In" might have looked like