Blogs from Abbeville, Louisiana, United States, North America

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North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 31st 2007

I had never heard of Joseph Jefferson before I came to Vermilion Parish. Chances are it would have remained that way. But the renowned 19th-century American actor grew so fond of Southern Louisiana that he poured much of his earnings into a twenty-five acre, subtropical retreat in Delcambre. Jefferson’s New York fame for playing the Washington Irving character on stage over four thousand times explains the literary allusion to the property’s name, the Rip Van Winkle Gardens. Otherwise, how could anyone connect one of the greatest performers of his time to the soft, moist shores of shallow Lake Peigneur? As a Northerner during Reconstruction, Jefferson was well-received by the Cajuns; people of the time considered him one of their own. Even in my brief stint in Vermilion do I realize how difficult it is to ... read more

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 28th 2007

“I think I’ll pass on the alligator bites for today, sweetie.” People here refer to pretty wait staff as “darling”, “sweetheart” or some other term of endearment. The pretty twenty-year-old leaned towards me at the counter and offered another suggestion from the menu. “Our oysters on the half shell are just the-” “No, thank you.” Just the thought of the slimy raw arthropods getting near my throat causes me to involuntarily gag up one of my lungs. Seated ext to me are Mom, Dad, and son enjoying three dozen of them served on ice. They eat them on cracker wafers doused in a combination of ketchup of an assortment of Louisiana hot sauces. No matter how they are dressed up, there is a reason Black’s Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar posts a disclaimer about consuming raw ... read more
Condiments

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 28th 2007

Louisiana highway eighty-two slopes south of Abbeville to the Gulf of Mexico. The raised and shoulderless byway uncovers a lifestyle, dramatic recent destruction, and geography that the parish seat quietly conceals in its more densely populated setting. It is the gateway to the expansive wetlands where waterfowl and fearsome reptiles far outnumber human inhabitants. “There’s a gator!” cries out Alison, my newly-acquired guide from the Chamber of Commerce. I am too busy keeping the car on the two-lane road, knowing full well that any significant error will land us in a waterlogged ditch. I nonetheless peer off to try to catch the glimpse of one in the natural rectangular ponds. At fifty-five miles an hour, I can make nothing of the wooden sticks that protrude above the surface. I am still unconvinced that I saw one. ... read more
Intracoastal Canal
Storm Surge Protection
What Used To Be

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 28th 2007

Cameron’s importance before September of 2005 centered around shrimping, the petroleum industry, and being the seat of the parish of the same name that abuts Vermilion to the west. While all three still play their essential roles, the wind-driven destruction of Rita lends to Cameron an ominous sensation that the storm struck its lethal blow only three weeks ago. Cameron is the swamp version of a ghost town whose primary sign of life is connected to the grey angular monsters of natural gas platforms rising from the Gulf. Cameron is still reeling. Dangling pieces of rusty sheet metal flap from the steel beams of obliterated warehouses. Homes were so completely wrecked that only their foundations remain from which entangled copper wires reach up but connect to nothing. In what used to be the front driveway, the ... read more
Tossed About
Fill'er Up?
When Did it Hit?

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 28th 2007

It was time to head north and get back to Abbeville. The open wetlands stretch for several miles north of Cameron. The massive shallow lakes are a refuge to numerous waterfowl of which my favorite are easily the egrets. The tall, long-legged, and lanky ivory hued birds are as commonplace as squirrels back home, but less suicidal. I comment about them to Alison, but she pays little attention. She probably doesn’t even see them anymore. I have pulled over anywhere possible to photograph them and Alison ignores me; she doesn’t even get out of the car. Tourist, she most likely mumbles to herself. But to me egrets are appealing. They take flight at very low speed and do not fly very high off the ground. Egrets do not sprint when their feet leave the surface; their ... read more
Flocks upon Flocks
Got'em!!!

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 27th 2007

Abbeville’s unique and elegant downtown should be an icon for Main Street America. Founded by Père Antoine Désiré Mégret in 1843 as La Chapelle, Père Mégret designed Abbeville with two connected central squares around which traffic flows counterclockwise. The manicured grounds of St. Mary Magdalen church anchor the western square at the center of which is a tastefully designed park with benches, a white gazebo in a corner, a gurgling fountain, and a statute of Father Mégret. Behind the rectory’s framed flower beds and palm plants rests the remains of Abbeville’s ancestors in the Catholic cemetery. It is signposted as an historical landmark; the text reads in English on one side and perfectly constructed French on the other. The names on the gravestones make it unmistakably clear that French was once the common vernacular of Abbeville ... read more
Statue of Pere Megret
Unashamed

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 25th 2007

Resigned to a quiet and solitary Christmas Day, I went to the only place in Abbeville I was I could get a meal. All the restaurants, even the fast food outlets, are closed; Abbeville hasn’t enough traffic to merit anything else open but the convenience store at the Valero gas station. Undaunted, I bought some coffee and a pre-packaged three-day old sandwich. I carried it over to the counter by the front window to enjoy my Holiday breakfast. On the third bite, someone inserted his hand in front of my face, between my mouth and my meal. “How ya doin’! Merry Christmas!” a voice called out. What I would normally consider a hostile act, getting between me and my food, I realized was an overt gesture of courtesy. I briskly brushed the crumbs off my lap, ... read more

North America » United States » Louisiana » Abbeville December 24th 2007

The bar-fenced Texas ranches of sharp defoliated bushes along I-10 enclose lethargic cattle grazing on dry vegetation. Little changes on the horizon to keep the mind occupied on any highway in East Texas. The broad plots of land are replaced first by oboe-like towers of petroleum refineries in the Houston area. On the far side of the Sabine River, swamps and canals welcome motorists far more appropriately than even the signpost that reads Bienvenue en Louisiane. Vermilion Parish lacks color and is flat, dry, and shapeless in late December. The heat is unimaginable in the summer, they say. With the exception of piles of sand and construction stones outside a construction firm, the nearest natural hill is over one hundred miles away. My father told me the highway through Louisiana was uneventful; I was glad to ... read more




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