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Published: December 21st 2008
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Morocco
Marrakesh - capturing local life Tourism - of the cheesy variety
A recent article in January 2009’s issue of Travel + Leisure (“Opinion: In Defense of Tourism”) made me think about some recent travel experiences, and contemplate what I would like my outlook to be for next year. The article discussed the benefits and drawbacks of “touristy” locations and those people that avoid them like the plague when traveling. It starts with a debate between the author and a friend who stop at a famous cannoli shop in Boston. The friend states it is “a funnel siphoning the souls out of hapless tourists.” The author just likes the cannolis. The friend has a “counterintuitive conviction to boycott” the shop because it is “touristy” complete with photos of the Clintons on the wall and it is a venerable stop for tour buses.
It is true that we have stumbled across wonderfully quaint places in our travels which just seem perfect for us and are the epitome of our destination, and then a giant tour group shows up and, well, ruins it. We have been run out of a café in a non-touristy area of Italy because of the awful American accent we heard a few
Paris Picnic
Dinner in Paris tables away from a guy who was from all places, Chicago! We do not want to sip our Chianti while over looking the Ligurian Sea during the off-season in Camogli just to be encroached by a Chicagoan. Nor, do we want to share our tiny bistro table in Paris with a couple who were so obviously New Yorkers they should be decked out head to toe in Yankees gear (although she wore all black, with a Louis Vuitton, and he was wearing adidas running pants, Nikes, and jets cap).
As the author wonders, does this just add a level of stress and worry to a trip? Query: “Doesn’t every traveler start out as a tourist?” What is the true difference between a traveler and a tourist? Why are we drawn away from “tourist” destinations to where the locals supposedly go? If we are looking to be different, to travel to more exotic and exclusive destinations, what are we missing? If we are trying to avoid other people, and in particular other Americans, are we just being obnoxious, as the author suggests?
Look kids - Big Ben, Parliament
In Paris, as in most large cities, I recall
Barcelona
La Boqueria, Barcelona - Market for the locals - becomes a tourist attraction the scene in the classic “National Lampoons European Vacation” where the Griswolds stop at a classic Parisian outdoor café for lunch, complete with their berets, and order some classic French cuisine. The chef tosses some cardboard trays of slop in the microwave, tosses it on a plate, and stabs a little French flag into the glop. And, in today’s day, that would cost 20€. I have no problem paying a little extra in Paris for a great meal because of the weak dollar (when were there it was at the dollars’ low point). I don’t, however, want to get scammed like the Griswolds. This leaves me skeptical of most places, and at some points stressed, while on vacation, because I am always on guard. How did this fear pan out in Paris? We walked out of our way from the Ile St. Louis to stop at a café on the border of the Marais District - hardly a touristy area. A pint of Carlsburg cost us the equivalent of $16!!! Even at 10€, it is hardly a deal for the locals. We felt like we were in a locals’ spot, away from the tourist attractions, and still paid and arm
Morocco
Marrakesh - Night Market and a leg. Alternatively, the bistro with the loud New Yorkers advertised a three course pri fixe at the base of the hill of Sacre Coeur. The only more touristy place in the area was at the TOP of the hill. We paid something like 20€ each for our three course meal, plus extra for a jug of house wine. It was easily our most expensive meals while there. Was it where the locals ate? Probably not. Was it edible? Yes, and it was even pretty good. The other option was continuing to wander the area, or hop on the Metro to head some place else when were hot, cranky, and hungry. We did end up speaking to the New Yorkers for awhile. Nice enough conversation, but reminded us why we moved to Chicago and not New York! That said, for two of our evenings in Paris, we grabbed wine, cheese, and bread from the local supermarket and sat on the bank of the Seine watching the sun go down and the lights on the Eiffel Tower go up. Touristy? Totally. Highlight of the trip? Definitely.
Independent Travel
We watch the travel shows and hope that if we travel “independently,” off the beaten path, every person we see will invite us in for a home cooked meal and a discussion about their culture. We don’t have the same “producers” for our travels as Anthony Bourdain or Andrew Zimmern. I am the producer of our trip, and the expectation that we will have these types of experiences is too much stress for me to bear. We can go to as many "local" markets as possible for produce, meats, chesses, cooked specialties - but are these really for the locals or for great pictures for the tourists?
So, where does that leave us? What is our goal for the M.P.? Our first goal is to stay at hostels along the way, not only to save money, but also to meet other travelers. I am looking to meet new people to hear about their experiences, and to gain insight into great places to check out. Second, if during 365 days of travel, we have some crappy food, get sick, etc., I am not stressing out about it. It is one thing to have three nights in Paris and want everyone of them to be perfect. We cannot expect perfection during the M.P. and I will not put the same kind of stress on myself. Part of this includes not fearing the street food! If other people are crowded around a food stall of steaming food - you will find us there. Third, we want to feel comfortable enough to strike up conversations with “locals” at bars, cafes, on the train, wherever. The purpose of this trip is to learn about people and their culture. And, overall, we want to be open to anything. No fear! If we happen upon a touristy spot, whether a restaurant or an attraction, we will take it for what it is, enjoy it, and move on.
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