Christkindlmarkt in Chicago

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Jay and I were excited and happy when we read in the paper that there is a Christkindlmarkt (an open air German Christmas market) at Daley Plaza in downtown Chicago during the whole Christmas season. We both have fond memories eating Currywurst (Bratwurst with curry ketchup and sometimes a small roll) and warming our frozen fingers with mugs of Gluehwein (a hot spiced wine). Gluehwein is the only thing that can make my toes feel warm when I'm standing there freezing in the sleet and snow. I always buy a paper cone of roasted, candied almonds. The scent of roasted chestnuts and almonds permeates the whole square like the aroma of freshly baked bread. Jay's day is made by a good Currywurst. When we lived in Berlin, a favorite subject for discussion in newspapers and among the Germans and Americans about which Imbiss (small sidewalk food stands) made the best Currywurst.

Along with the great food are one small booth after another with dangling wooden and hand-blown glass ornaments, brightly painted nutcrackers that look like they belong in the ballet, sweaters, mittens, beer steins with pointed metal lids, Christmas tree skirts, Hummel figurines, model cottages lit from within by tea candles, Advent calendars, and music from the Vienna Boys' choir in the background. There is something about hearing those small boys with their pure sopranos sing Silent Night or about the beauty of green trees in the snow that makes me feel more open and kind to the people around me.

The aisles between the rows of booths were so narrow that people were crowded shoulder-to-shoulder, good naturedly bumping and smiling, sometimes murmuring, "Excuse me," or a quick "Sorry!" with a smile. Normally, being crowded against so many people leaves me feeling suffocated, claustrophic and hostile if I get shoved enough. But the people here were merry and relaxed, so I didn't mind. Jay and I have been amazed at how slowly people in Chicago move compared to other large cities in which we lived. Here people stop right in the middle of the sidewalk or the train station to look around. In Berlin or London, people who do that are practically mowed down by the crowds racing behind them. Our patience has been tried by walking or driving behind people just poking along, but also makes us aware that we should slow our pace and enjoy more.

Once we had eaten and been warmed by wine, we explored the booths. Many of the merchants came from Germany and we enjoyed speaking German with them. We looked for the Christmas angel dolls with their soft wavy brown hair, creamy skin, and red velvet or diaphanous white robes and gold paper wings like the ones we had bought at Christmas markets in Berlin and Nuremburg, but there were none here. The larger dolls can be very expensive and I could never afford them, but always love looking at them.

The word Christkindl means "Christ child" so no Christkindlmarkt would be complete without a life-sized nativity scene. In recent years, I've read about thefts of baby Jesus from nativity scenes around the country. Last week there was a report of two baby Jesus figures, each valued at 20 dollars, stolen from nativities in the Chicago suburb of Schaumburg. I know I should be outraged by these thefts as they indicate a cetain disrespect. But I think those who take baby Jesus are the same sorts of people who steal plastic flamingoes from people's yards and photograph them in different vacation spots. I would like to see baby Jesus photographed in front of the Vatican, St. Paul's cathedral in London, and lying in his straw bed on the beach in Waikiki. I could see baby Jesus' head and feet peeking through the straw at this Christkindlmarket and was satisfied that I had seen him before he began his world tour.

The focal point of the Christmas market was a huge Christmas tree with ornaments the size of beachballs - most impressive. Jay got a good photo of people milling about the tree, some snug in sleek fur coats, and others in light denim or corduroy jackets, hunched up against the cold and inhaling cigarette smoke. Jay and I used this occasion to try out our new down parkas from L.L.Bean. They are supposed to keep a person warm to temperatures of 40 below (Fahrenheit). It was a balmy 20 degrees Fahrenheit and for the first time in my life, I felt snug and warm in the snow. Even the icy wind off Lake Michigan couldn't faze me.

After the market we walked down State Street to look at the animated puppets in the windows of Macy's (formerly the famous Marshall Field department store). There is a heated campaign among Chicagoans to get Macy's to bring back the name, ambience, and personnel of the old store. Marshall Fields was not merely a store. It is the sight of many fond Christmas memories and a Chicago landmark. We walked through the theater district (like a second Broadway) and stopped for a surprizingly good cup coffee at Dunkin' Doughnuts. At the point it was only 2 p.m. and we didn't feel like going back home so we walked to the Chicago Art Institute museum.

It is a Chicago tradition to drape the statues of the lions in front of the Art Institute with huge Christmas wreaths. I had to take photos of that noble adorned lion standing bravely in the snow. We strolled around the museum, happy to be out of the sleet and slush and visited some of our favorite paintings by Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh, the German Expressionists and American art. I can hardly wait for Edward Hopper's famous "Nighthawks" painting to return home here in February 2008. It's a thrill to live again in a city with world class art.

We rode home to Prairie Crossing (usually a 50 minute ride, but it took and hour and 50 minutes today) on the train. The platform was crowded with people and the train was a few minutes late. People rushed aboard the train and we were concerned at first whether we would get a seat. We were really in need of a seat after walking all over downtown all day. We were fortunate and got a seat together The station is underground and as the train pulled out into the night it was already dark we could see the cars lined up at the lights and on the highways in the snow and ice. We were very happy that we took the train as there were people who had driven in and left their cars and were taking the train home since the weather had gotten so bad. We were almost home when the conductor announced that they were looking for someone with medical experience. The train stopped at the next station and waited until an emergency medical crew arrived to take someone off. We finally arrived to our home station. Our car was covered with about an inch of ice so we had to chop it off before driving off. Winter has arrived in the Midwest.

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Photos

Kathe Wohlfahrt booth
People stood in long lines, waiting to buy ornaments

Leisa with Gluehwein
My nose is red, but my toes are warm!

Jay at Dunkin' Donuts
It's rare to capture Jay in a photo with a happy expression. He loved the market

Trumpets at Macy
This building is the famous Marshall Field department store.

Lion at Art Institute
The big white dots are snow.

Comments

[Judy Lazarus]

Thanks for taking me back
I never lived in Chicago, but I lived in Boston and loved it. The city in winter was beautiful and exciting. Your description of Chicago and the pictures took me back to my days in Boston. But, oh, I would love to see Chicago. I've only seen O'Hare. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

[Michele Bock]

What a great journal and what a great place. Lisa, the picture of you is terrific -- just like I remember you. You're so beautiful. Thanks for keeping on with your travelog.