Trading the cool rainforest for the warm coast

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Geo: 19.6452, -155.997

Today I left Volcano for Kailua-Kona on the west coast. The shortest route is to follow Hwy 11 west out of Volcano, passing the southernmost point in the US and then going north along the coast. The other route is to take Hwy 19 north out of Hilo and follow it around the north side of the island. I chose to take the north route as it sounded more scenic and I wanted to hit the farm markets in Waimea.

Hwy 19 did not disappoint! There were some stretches along the east coastline that were a bit scary (a road my dad would love to drive) but I paid attention to the changing scenery rather than the scary twists, turns and climbs. I took the turn off for Akaka Falls State Park, which heads up into the hills on another windy scenic road. The park is at the end of the road and there is a $5 fee which is paid at an automated machine using your credit card and entering your license plate number. I did not want to do that and did not know my number so I just took a picture from the overlook and headed out. It would probably be a lovely walk, but I also did not want to miss the farm market.

Waimea is probably halfway between Hilo and Kona and you are awarded the first views of Mauna Kea as you get closer to the town. The mountain is impressive, rising off the floor, with smaller cones at the base. You can make out the various observatories at the top. I did not see any snow, but that could be on the other side or there wasn't any. Waimea is a cowboy town. There are large ranches and lots of cows and horses. The area receives some rain and is quite green. I was able to stop at two farm markets that both were going on at the same time. One is on the east side of Waimea and the other was on the west side. At the west side one I got a delicious pesto quesadilla and bought some coconut candies from one of the stands. They had coconut with all different flavors and samples of all. There were also stands with honey, jams, produce, crafts and, of course, Kona coffee. Two very nice little markets!

I decided to take Hwy 190 out of Waimea instead of following Hwy 19. The 19 would have followed the coast and gone through all the little towns. I plan to go back that way another day on one of my driving routes so I took the faster 190. This goes inland and is through some very dry, desolate land. Mauna Kea looms over it and must block the rain. Lots of scrubby grasses, some cacti and scraggly trees are mostly what you see. Further on were the remnants of a lava flow and that made the landscape even more dramatic. My mom does not like dry scrubby stuff, but I loved it. It is just amazing the variety of areas you find on one island. You wouldn't think of Hawaii as having a desert or being chilly but it does and is. I really recommend the inner route if you plan to go along the coast later in your trip.

Once you arrive over on the Kona side the landscape again changes to the more green. It is different from the rainforest of Volcano. Kona is drier and sunnier, what Hawaii is normally associated with. Kailua-Kona is a big resort town. The touristy road is lined with eateries, shops, ABC stores, tour operators and any other service you might want. I stopped at my hotel to check-in even though it was only 12:30. I am staying at the Royal Kona and it seems nice. The lobby is all open air and the crashing surf is a constant in the background. My room wasn't ready so I parked the car and wandered back up the street. I stopped for a snack of some shave ice. This is the greatest snack ever. Just some shaved ice with whatever flavored syrup you would like. Apparently the way to eat it is also with some condensed milk on top. I chose coconut and sat under the awning to enjoy my snack while watching the waves. I checked out little shops and then turned around to just sit at the hotel until my room was ready.

I wandered back to the desk at 2:45 and the guy told me it was still being cleaned. I said no problem, I can sit and enjoy the breeze. When I went back after 3 he said they had upgraded me from an ocean view room to an ocean front room because of the wait! Well wasn't that nice! Check in time is really 3 so I wasn't waiting, but I won't complain. The view is great. I can sit out on the lanai, type my blog and just listen to the waves! The room itself is ok. The bathroom is small and there is hardly any tub ledge. I was barely able to get the little bar of soap to fit. It could use some updating. But the room is clean and the bed looks comfy so that is all that matters. Ended the day by grabbing a salad at Bubba Gump Shrimp. Then was treated to the sounds of the luau outside my room. This one was being put on for a group of Japanese tourists and they really enjoyed it. Fell asleep listening to the sounds of the crashing waves.

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