Dimensions of Maui...

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Roots Run Deep...

Im a transient little butterfly these days...exploring the unknown and mentally documenting all my accounts with beauty before I flutter to the next. As my first time embarking on a solo trip it was too significent not to document on paper...Maui, how I love thee.

Shortly after landing on this sensually radiant island, the scents and grease of cocoa butter filled the air...bringing with them an extreme wave of bliss. I was in my element: sun, salt and sand...ohhh the tropics. I drove along the oceanside highway windows down, reggae pumpin until arriving in the town of Lahaina, my destination. I drove up the Hyatt's entryway shaded by large oaks with a backdrop of golf courses and mountain ranges. http://www.maui.hyatt.com

Immediately sensing the warm vibes in the air I felt perfectly placed even before unloading my luggage. I was then greeted with an intricate lei of shells by the reception staff and an "Aloha" from the talking parrots in the lobby and later led to my miraculous ocean-view suite to find a gift basket from the hotel including wine and chocolate for dessert. Ummm...is checkout even necessary or can I just move in?

Between lush paths of green, meditation gardens, and exotic birds (to include cranes and penguins) roaming the hotel grounds, I found my way towards the sweet shore...oh yeah, and the Mai Tais. Anything missing? Let's see, check off: calypso music, hula dancers, soft breeze, warm rays, and the most intensely beautiful hillsides bordering the teal ocean. I had it all.

I spent the next few days in a blissful, meditative mode as I drove through the island attempting to explore a different shore each day. Starting with Lahaina; an old whaling town that is now bustling with world renowned resorts, fishermen, surfers, and tourists strolling the boardwalk towards everything retail-based. Being the art capital of the Pacific, Lahaina's main street Front Street, is aligned with galleries, ice cream parlors and bars. It was here that I found my favorite breakfast stop...no not a bar...Sunrise Cafe. Several mornings I'd lounge on the front porch sipping delicious French roast, enjoying eggs and french toast, and talking it up with the pleasant staff as the waves rippled nearby. Did I mention the cafe's prices are amazing too?? Scratch the Yelp search and mark this down...

Just a short walk from Lahaina (take the boardwalk or beach route) lies the magnificent mile-long stretch of Kaanapali Beach. There are a dozen hotels along this shore which all offer water sports, diving and surfing lessons, and beach gear for rent. I made it to the end of the beach that is joined by the infamous jagged lava cliff...Black Rock. The large black lava flow juts out into the Pacific Ocean and divides Kaanapali Beach in half. If you dont feel like paying for a day long cruise to do some snorkeling, Black Rock is a fabulous underwater viewing point for just that. I remember Black Rock clearly because the day of, the weather had turned cloudy after breakfast and light rain began to fall. I recall sitting around the local beach kids and some resort guests while a sultry song by M83 came on my playlist. Suddenly the sun appeared through the clouds solely above me...just a small opening. It was striking. I went on rent a snorkel and fins from the Sheraton and dove into beauty. I swam towards Black Rock where locals were leaping from the cliff and it seemed other snorkelers had found an underwater treasure. In route I crossed through the most beautiful reef. My heart melted when I peered up and encountered not one but THREE sea turtles directly in front of me. They floated at a graceful pace, occasionally coming up to the surface. I followed them around for a good while. I then noticed a crowd of snorkelers tailing me during this magical moment. I figured they were sharing in on the enjoyment but came to realize they were all dudes...with underwater cameras. So there I was in my Brazilian tanga, floating around and admiring the turtles. I'd say the meaning of "miraculous view" was had by all...

The next morning I ventured to Sea House Restaurant along the shores of Napili, a protected pool-like stretch of blue. Napili bay with it's crescent shaped beach, blue azure waters, and powdery soft sand is one of Maui's most charming beaches. Being so enclosed and protected by reef and rocks, the water is much calmer and shallower...therefore attracting an errr "older" crowd and more families. But I had to say, it was beautiful watching these seniors enjoying their lives in one of the most beautiful pieces of paradise. I smiled as they soaked in the shallow shores, laughing in their one piece suits and swim caps. How charming it must be to reach that stage where your life is pure pleasure and little worry.

After befriending a lovely lady sitting nearby me, it was my time to go. I was meeting a friend in Kapalua Beach, just beyond the stretch of rocks off Napili's shoreline on Maui's northwest shore where the Ritz Carlton resort and golf courses stand. Kapalua beach is one of Maui's most beautiful beaches, situated in a bay lined with palm trees and fringed by lava rocks extending into the ocean. Instead of landing at my destination...Im not one for directions these days...I ended up on a nature trail through wild shrubs and luxurious beach-front homes. I walked along a boardwalk path until the road turned to rocks and dirt. I kept going. To where? I wasnt sure but I was intrigued by all this exploration and excited to see where it would lead. I finally came across a private pool which I assumed belonged to the residents of the Ritz. Not my goal. Sooo u-turn it was! Back to my nature trail, back towards the ocean. After an hour-long hike to nowhere the sky had turned gloomy and a little more threatening as the afternoon settled. Exhausted, I decided the ocean was my cure. Looking around there was not a soul in sight. I was liberated as I dropped my bag and ran into the sea of grey waves. The salt was heavy causing me to float above the tide. Alone in a sea of cloudy water...it was amazingly invigorating. Then the rain fell.

Returning to the Hyatt, the sun had reached its early evening peak and was once again out and shining. The pool area was alive with energy as it was the daily happy hour gap when guests gathered around the Umalu patio bar to watch the NBA semi-finals. Coming back to this each day was soothing in a way, knowing that there were faces to talk to and share a drink with until everyone went about their evening plans. That night I was invited out to a Luau which was something I had previously decided was a waste of time but had finally given in to and the company was great. This took place at the Royal Lahaina Resort in Kaanapali http://www.royallahaina.com/Luaus.cfm. As the sun set across the Pacific, the doors were opened to all Luau guests and we were all seated in groups along the stage. The show was a compilation of traditional Polynesian songs and dances, incorporating hula and fire dances. Guests are asked to serve themselves from the buffet meal including fresh pineapple, traditional Hawaiian meats, rice and noodles, roast pig and fruity cocktails. Touristy as I had imagined but a good time nonetheless.

The following day I drove to the north shore into Paia. This is a one of a kind, cool little town. Once a booming sugar cane plantation town, Paia's old plantation style wooden buildings are still intact. This quaint little beach town has an array of fine specialty shops, boutiques, surf shops, antique stores, bakeries, and even an old fashioned tattoo parlor. I ran into Anthony's Coffee for a quick breakfast bite of coffee, oatmeal and toast...fabulous staff for preparing it so fast! I was meeting up with Maui Easy Riders biking tour, owned by Billy and Billy...two very cool cats from the mainland. This tour consisted of a 25 mile downhill bike ride through the Haleakala National Park, a dormant volcano, winding down steep roads and rapidly descending more than 3000 feet in under 10 miles. Admittingly embarrassing...I almost took down 2 cars along the way...or should I say they almost swept me (I of course blamed it on the wind). Being the youngest and smallest on the tour, the guides were worried that the strong gusts downhill would push me off track so I was then placed in the very front of the group and chaperoned like a child. The tour then continued through the town of Kula where organic farms and fresh flowers dot the landscape in this upcountry paradise. We stopped at a local marketplace for snacks and restrooms before descending towards Makawao Town...an ecentric little cowboy village in the middle of the hills featuring countless art galleries and adorable boutiques. Makawao had a charm found nowhere else on the island of Maui. Easy Riders is the only tour company on the entire island of Maui that offered a tour of this special Hawaiian Town. We were given time to stop and visit the local bakery and plethora of art displays, even stopping at a historic chapel and exploring its insides before continuing downhill back to Paia.

Many breathtaking views to be had on this half-day venture, all while cruising through nature's curves of exquisiteness. We ended the day at the edge of Baldwin Beach, a long, wide, sandy beach park just outside of Paia where palm trees stood tall and the water shown a crystal blue. Ironically, while racking my cruiser and saying my goodbyes I noticed each bike had a name. The name of my bike?..."Bliss". How ideal.

Being too windy to lay out at Balwin, I ventured back into the town of Paia for some good lunch before continuing on. Next stop? Iao Valley State Park! This Valley is a peaceful lush area with easy hikes, exotic tropical plants, and clear, natural pools. The ridge-top lookout offers a fantastic view of the valley and Kahului Harbor. Located in Central Maui, this peaceful 4,000-acre, 10-mile long park is home to one of Maui's most recognizable landmarks, the Iao Needle. The Iao Needle is a natural rock pinnacle that protrudes through the valley and makes for quite a site. Trails in the State Park run alongside Iao Stream and through the forest. I walked through the paved trails of this lush forest, occassionally running into other hikers, but mainly just being one with the trees and streams. Iao Valley was covered in dense rainforest, most of which consisted of blooming vegetation on the valley floor. The dense rainfall makes Iao Valley the state's second wettest location. Much of this rainfall ends up flowing into the Iao Stream. It was breathtaking. The sound of running water along with the wild flowers and surrounding colossal cliffs made it all dreamlike. That evening's sunset was iconic. I laid on the beach's edge with a fresh fruit smoothie admiring the day's turnout. A guy from the hotel's pool staff must have picked up on my happiness and brought over a fresh container of pineapple to add to my delight. "Couldnt help but notice how much you love that pineapple so I brought you some more"...sweet.

After a lovely morning breakfast at Sunrise Cafe and a stroll through Lahaina's shops and park, I returned for a day of beach, pool, and some good reading. That same night it was time to splurge on some fine cuisine so after goiong over a few recommendations with the concierge, I went with Japengo; modern Asian-inspired flavors with Hawaiian flair. Guests can enjoy Japengo’s indoor and outdoor patio seating overlooking the resort’s waterfalls and famed Kaanapali Beach or watch as creative sushi is rolled to order in the chic Sushi Lounge. I enjoyed some glasses of Souvignon Blanc with some delicious sushi and caught another momentous sunset. Tiki torches burned around me and the sky turned to shades of magenta and purple. That night I explored the town's bars with some friends I had met along the way. Front Street offered two or three options for live music, late dining and "dancing". Good times in a small town...

My last day in Maui before transferring to Kauai was a memorable one. I had booked a helicopter tour through Blue Hawaiin over the entire island! I had saved the best for last. http://www.bluehawaiian.com Unfortunately due to some strong winds, the pilot changed the route and opted instead to venture over West Maui and the island of Molokai. Amongst a group of 7 people, 4 of which were from San Francisco...my new playground, I was placed in front by the pilot and handed my headphones for communication. The view from the front was incredible for photos. We went on to explore deep, meandering valleys set in the rainforest of the ancient West Maui Mountains. Knife-edged ridges and peaks separated the spectacular valleys. Waterfalls cascaded down from towering cliffs into the streams running along the rainforest floor. We flew over the famous Iao Valley and learned about the history and culture of the sights. We then crossed the Pailolo channel to the "Friendly Isle" of Molokai. This is an island that stays true to its Hawaiian traditions, tucked away from the hustle of the outside world. Where no building is taller than a coconut tree, where there’s no traffic and no traffic lights, where you can feel the power of Hawaiian culture. Molokai has the world's highest, most spectacular sea cliffs, Hawaii's tallest waterfall, remote valleys and the famous Kalaupapa peninsula. Imagine the Hawaii of the past. Unspoiled country and untouched beaches. No skyscrapers or stoplights. The chance to truly live as the locals do. So why not visit?...The town of Kalaupapa in Molokai has been cursed with human fear of the disease leprosy. Leprosy was believed to have spread to Hawaii from China in the early 1800's. Its rapid spread and unknown cure caused the need for complete and total isolation. Surrounded by the Pacific ocean and cut off from the rest of Molokai by high sea cliffs, Kalaupapa was the ideal environment. Diagnosed victims were shipped to Kalaupapa and existed for 7 years until a cure was found. Interestingly enough, the few former patients remaining on the island are free to relocate elsewhere, but most have chosen to remain where they have lived for so long.

The afternoon was spent by the pool with lunch. I smiled and reflected on the meaning of this trip...Hawaii is one of the most powerfully sacred places on earth. Each island has a special energy and flavor. On a spiritual realm, the Hawaiian Islands are the Chakra Sytem of the planet, all of the seven main islands represent and vibrate at different chakra energies. Earth’s Heart Chakra is Maui. One visit to the lush island and the aromatic breeze of Maui is enough to understand why it is Mother Earth’s heart.

Ironically my parents visited this magical island nine months before I was born so my roots run deep...

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