Makapu'u Beach - Surf's Up

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We went to Makapu'u beach today and 'learned' how to surf, I was a total natural, totally and naturally kept falling off as soon as I stood up, Fiona was a bit better but she wasn't going for the monster waves that I was going for, WIPE OUT!!!

Fiona has a healthy fear of sharks, a fear that I add to almost every day by telling her that I think I just saw one, I never tire of it and she seems to get as scared everytime so it's all good, this makes her stay in easy swimming distance of the shore.

Anyway, the surf lessons started with a skin tight wet suit induction, now I'm not the fattest lad in town but these things don't leave much to the imagination, I have been eating quite a lot here and my plan of eating every two hours rather than 3 big meals a day is starting to back-fire on me and this morning brought it all home, I need to be trim for the swimming away from the sharks after all............

After an hour or so standing on the bloody thing in the sand we finally moved into the shallow water where we got to lie on it and paddle, now I don't claim to be an expert or anything but I have seen Blue Crush and Point Break on more than one occassion, I was ready for the waves dude.

We got out there and Fiona was doing good with the waves that we were told to aim for, me on the other hand I'd already aced Surfing 101 and was on my way to join the brothers at the 'Rip Curl'.

As you may have guessed I know nothing about surfing, no chat, no plans, no nothing, I can however talk a good game.

Anyway to cut a long story short we had a good day and a great laugh, mostly at my expense, I was looking forward to showing my skills at Waikiki tomorrow.

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Photos

Hang Loose
from Andrew